3" DOWNPIPE RESTING ON FRAME

[hawkfan]

As it rest on the frame get ready for false knock

The heat wrap is giving it a 1/8" cushion so no KR on the scanmaster or flashing on the knock gauge yet. But I know the wrap will get rubbed through eventually, but I wont let it get to that point. The car isn't a daily driver so I can afford to wait for the new mounts to be installed.

 

[CGASTON]

The heat wrap is giving it a 1/8" cushion so no KR on the scanmaster or flashing on the knock gauge yet. But I know the wrap will get rubbed through eventually, but I wont let it get to that point. The car isn't a daily driver so I can afford to wait for the new mounts to be installed.

If you were to take it out and crank on it or hit some bumps, that is when you will notice it...

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[mybuick]

I have the hr mounts and my 3in dp rests on the frame it needs to move a little towards the transmission to clear the frame

 

[bob86gn]

I have TA headers, HR motor mounts, new body bushings and my RJC downpipe fits great. The slotting of the flange with the TA headers let me rotate the turbo slightly so everything lined up ok. I would start with the motor mounts and see if that helps make it clear. You literally couldn't have centered the downpipe between all the stuff down there any better.

 

[hawkfan]

A few pics. It's just on the corner of the frame.

 

[czimpel]

I would bet that if you elongate the turbo bot holes on the header flange and rotate the turbo little bit clockwise it would fit great.

I had to do this on mine.

Remove the turbo
Clean the header flange
Tape the flange opening to keep shavings from entering the header.
I used a die grinder and straight burr to oblong the holes a little at a time until it fit.
A larger drill bit supposedly works as well, but coach pointed me to the die grinder for better results.
Also check to make sure the turbo brace on the header is not broke from the flange.

Good luck!

 

[hawkfan]

I would bet that if you elongate the turbo bot holes on the header flange and rotate the turbo little bit clockwise it would fit great.

I had to do this on mine.

Remove the turbo
Clean the header flange
Tape the flange opening to keep shavings from entering the header.
I used a die grinder and straight burr to oblong the holes a little at a time until it fit.
A larger drill bit supposedly works as well, but coach pointed me to the die grinder for better results.
Also check to make sure the turbo brace on the header is not broke from the flange.

Good luck!

Thanks! I was thinking about drilling out the header flange bolts while I'm putting my new turbo in. I think that would allow me to bring it in some. Do you think a Dremel tool is strong enough to elongate the dp bolt holes?

 

[czimpel]

Possibly if you have good bits, but it will probably take a while. I used a rotozip with 1/4" shank carbide burrs. I didn't have to elongate any of the DP holes, and by the looks of your photos it is sitting at the right height down below, just needs to move to the right a little. I actually held the DP where I wanted it and kept elongating the turbo flange holes until they matched up well.

 

[HouTX87]

My THDP fits perfect but with new cheapo motor mounts from O'reilly the downpipe would slap the frame and cause false knock. Switched to HR poly mounts and the engine doesn't move. Didn't notice and vibration either. Their newer mounts are supposed to be a little softer to dampen vibration.

 

[Fast4Ward]

i forgot to mention that the torque strap tension also helped.

 

[bob86gn]

I did not notice any noise or vibration from the stock replacement H&Rs either. I did both sides and it seems fine.

 

[Silver Fox]

I was very concerned with vibrations from the HR Mounts. I noticed some initial vibration, but it seemed to go away after the first ten minutes of driving and I no longer notice it. I also installed another set on a friends car and it was just like mine - vibrated for about ten minutes and then went away not to return. Both of these sets of HR motor mounts were purchased in the last fifteen months - I think these are considered the "new" mounts.

Rob

 

[hawkfan]

Just wanted to post the resolution to this thread. I replaced both motor mounts with DEA p/n 2382 and 2384 mounts. Both mounts were in bad shape and the driver side mount was in two pieces. Gained about a 1/4" clearance as you can see in the pics below. I have an RJC rear motor brace on the way to keep the dp off the frame under torque and to take some of the stress off the new mounts. The job was kind of a PITA, but pretty straight forward. Went for a drive after and it was really smooth, especially getting on and off the throttle. Thanks to everyone here for the help and advice.

 

[czimpel]

Great job, glad to see that fixed your problem.

 

[hawkfan]

Great job, glad to see that fixed your problem.

Thanks. I'm still planning on drilling out the holes on the header flange to get even more clearance when I swap out my turbo. I'm a little miffed the titanium heat wrap got frayed though but am glad the issue is fixed.