3" DOWNPIPE RESTING ON FRAME

hawkfan

Active Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
I recently had an RJC 3" downpipe and pypes exhaust installed and noticed the dp is resting on the very corner of the frame. The downpipe is 'clocked' to raise the back end of the pipe up but obviously there's not enough adjustment. It clears the heater box just fine. I recently had to replace a broken trans mount, so I'm figuring the motor mounts might need replacing too? The car has 120k miles on it. I did a search here and see a lot of guys use poly mounts, but I don't want additional vibration since this is a 100% street driven car. Would regular rubber replacement mounts raise the engine enough to gain some clearance? I took some pics but they are a little too large. I will try to add them later.
 
My RJC did the same thing. I put on HR's mounts and it picked it up enough to clear. However, with the new poly mounts I did get a vibration.
 
My RJC did the same thing. I put on HR's mounts and it picked it up enough to clear. However, with the new poly mounts I did get a vibration.
Thanks. I figured as much. I like the idea of never having to replace the poly mounts but really don't want any more vibration or noise. I'll probably just get some new rubber stock replacements and see if that works.
 
It's the pipe, mine does the same thing,check the waste gate puck alignment,not so good either, don't get me wrong nice piece and it's the highest flowing 3" DP out there, remember what aftermarket means,it might not just drop in or bolt on. You could drill out the flange bolt holes a bit and raise the pipe up , but check and recheck your puck alignment. Happy Trails :)
 
The passenger mount rarely breaks, but it does get squished enough to drop the passneger side of the motor down a bit
 
hello people; I think I got a vibration from the HR mounts. Not much but it's different than it was.
What's your procedure to ck. puck alignment ?
IBBY
 
hawkfan said:
I recently had an RJC 3" downpipe and pypes exhaust installed and noticed the dp is resting on the very corner of the frame. The downpipe is 'clocked' to raise the back end of the pipe up but obviously there's not enough adjustment. It clears the heater box just fine. I recently had to replace a broken trans mount, so I'm figuring the motor mounts might need replacing too? The car has 120k miles on it. I did a search here and see a lot of guys use poly mounts, but I don't want additional vibration since this is a 100% street driven car. Would regular rubber replacement mounts raise the engine enough to gain some clearance? I took some pics but they are a little too large. I will try to add them later.

Hey, i have HR mounts on Left and Right motor mount, trans mount, and crossmember.... I get a vibration. I also have an RJC DP. Mine hit the frame as ALL OF YOU ARE DESCRIBING.... I had to take mine and cut it in three spots and re-weld back together. So I have an RJC worth $560.... Plus I did elongated the holes to clock.

Clint

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick
 
^^^So, the poly mounts don't rattle everything? That was my main concern with the H&R mounts. I already ordered some mounts from Rockauto but they were only $10 for both so it's no big loss if they suck. I could at least keep the replacement passenger mount and get a H&R driver side mount, or just get both and be done with it. Whatever it takes to get some decent clearance.
 
Maybe the headers are tired and the turbo is leaning over towards the passenger side?
 
place thin wrench or screw driver between frame and pipe before bolting it to the turbo. it seemed to work just fine and never rubbed but since lowering the car is see it has rubbed abit.
 
I noticed a different feel to the car with the H&R mounts installed. I also did the H&R tranny mount, noticed vibrations installing that as well.
 
place thin wrench or screw driver between frame and pipe before bolting it to the turbo. it seemed to work just fine and never rubbed but since lowering the car is see it has rubbed abit.
Not a bad idea actually. I can loosen the bolts going to the turbo, wedge something between the frame and pipe. and then tighten everything back up and see if that gets at least some clearance. I wrapped the downpipe before the installation, so at least it has some cushion between it and the frame right now.
 
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