3rd fuel pump w/E85

blackmonte

New HP Technology !!!
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Ok this is the 3rd pump that went bad on me , the pump in there now is only 6 months old and has maybe 500 miles on it ( Racetronx) so I am done with the BS !! Can someone give me a complete list on what is needed for external pump install please? I will be using a Fuelab pump.& will want to use that billet. Pickup. So the Fuelab has speed control what hobs switch wiring, filters,-8 -10 , I also will be running 80# injectors for now but will be running 120s.Please include part #s I only want to do this one time. Fuel rail mod fitting reg, Thank you

John
 
Walbro that came with the car, Walbro from Kirbans, now Racetronx from TurboTweak I can call Eric I guess?But why, I just need a pump that I can trust.:eek:
 
Ok here is everything

1-42402 Prodigy Fuelab pump

1-82823-c 75 micron stainless pre filter

1 81812 in-line 40 micron stainless filter

3-feet of -10 pro-flo 350 braided fuel hose

20- feet of -8

20- feet of -6

-6 fuel reg fitting

1- 53501 fuelab reg

2- 90* max flow swivel -10 fittings 0

1- 50amp relay

10 gauge wire

Now I need to mod the supply fuel rail to a -8 do you just cut off the end and weld on a -8 fitting? Also the pump is speed rated do you use a Hobbs switch for that at whatever psi you select?
 
Most fuel manufactures recommend no lower than a 100 micron pre filter and Magnafuel makes a stainless 25 micron post filter, which is what I run.

Since you're doing a fresh fuel system I'd recommend going -10 and you can cut and weld on a -10 to the rail, Tom J has done it (he posts in this section).

You can Hobbs it easily for whatever psi you feel is necessary for it to go to High Speed. The dials not the easiest thing to read psi with but I'd imagine the 15psi or sub 15psi marking would be just fine.
 
make sure you do the hobs switch, I run the 1200hp fuel lab pump and has severe fuel heating issues because the pump is shipped on high setting. my fuel got so hot car started running bad and I could not touch my fuel cell it was that hot.
 
I am setting up my Fuelab 42401 to work with my Gen II Aeromotive Pump Speed Controller, for an E85 setup. The beauty of this controller is that you set the rpm that you want the pump to go full voltage, then you set the minimum voltage you want the pump to see at idle and the controller effectively ramps up the voltage to the pump in a linear fashion. I talked to Fuelab and they said this would work as long as you didn't set the minimum voltage below 6Volts. When you turn on the car the pump will cycle for a few seconds at full voltage which is useful for a prime. Then the voltage will drop to the minimum you set and from that point on be rpm dependent.

Since I'm running a Vortech YSi, I'll probably set the full rpm point at about 5000-5500rpm. You turbo guys will probably want it a lot lower because of your boost curve.

If you are running a Hobbs switch, you'll effectively be using the switch to control a relay that switches back and forth between the pump's low speed and the high speed. Seems pretty simple to set up based on Fuelab's instructions. But if you want a true progressive system, check out the Aeromotive controller, PN 16306 (Summit PN AEI-16306) for about $316. With your boost curves, maybe you don't need progressive, maybe you just need 'Normal' and 'Kill'! Then the Hobbs setup will be way cheaper.

I'll post back when I start testing - it's a solid month or so away due to other parts of the motor upgrade project.

Jim
 
Jack Cotton tells me that these external pumps must be primed at all times for long life. You don't want these pumps running dry for even a second. That means that the fuel supply must be mounted higher than the pump to ensure that fuel is always pushing itself into the pump.

I know that some get away without doing that but everything that you can do will help extend the life.

The fuel pump controller is also a much-needed item for long pump life.

Conrad
 
So you are saying you need a sump to run an external pump?plus controller. Someone said that the billet hanger would work, a NA sender is the same thing less the -an fittings on it,that is what I have done already and went with a Weldon pump instead of the Fuelab but no longer running E85 but running alky again . And the Weldon pump says you can mount the pump above fuel cell .I looked at a stainless fuel tank with stealth pump and filter $1700 too much bread for me.Then -8 & -6 fuel lines, 120 injectors, external reg . I said f it . I can just run the smaller injectors , Weldon pump, alky, and new billet turbo and run low 11s all day and get my mpg back, the E 85 was great stuff but your stuck doing tons to your fuel sytem to run a low 11.I know there is a few that ran the stock fuel lines and a double pumper and are running high 10s but trying to find a double pumper was hard plus those pumps were not for e85 , I still think that's why all my pumps failed not sure but think? A single intank pump should have been fine running 24 psi on a ta49 but was not.
 
No, I didn't say you couldn't do it. I said that it is better if your pump always has fuel in it. Not overyone wants to run a sumped tank or a tank in the trunk. IMHO, the less the pump has to lift the fuel, the better. It is always better to fully research the pump that you are going to run and be sure you have designed the fuel system to work with it.

I'm not familar with Weldon's pumps. If they say it is ok, I would NOT sweat it.

If you get it wrong,you could destroy your pump and, if you are not having a good day, your engine along with it. Be careful out there!
Conrad
 
Weldon Pumps

Weldon pumps are push or pull pumps, fully serviceable - rebuildable. if anyone is interested I have a Weldon Pump and controler that I have decided not to use in my build.
George
gbradley-belter@sc.rr.com
803.351.0041
 
Top