3rd Gear Switch Not Working - does it matter?

[turbojimmy]

TLink is showing that my 3rd gear switch isn't working. I'm pretty sure it's always been this way, but I'm not sure. Could be a new behavior with the new trans.

Anyhow, is it hurting anything? Do chips do anything different with this information? I have my BstC wired to reduce the boost in third and obviously that's not working.

Any tips on finding out where the problem is? Which wire in the 4-prong plug on the trans is it? Does it close to ground? If it is broken, is it easy to replace? (easy meaning just drop the pan or pull something out of the side of the trans)

TIA,
Jim

 

[TurboJim]

Does it show its IN third all the time? Thpse switches are normally closed and open on event. If t;link always shows you in third, it may simply be disconnected.

This switches are easy to get. Like $9.00. Gotta drop the pan to install though. Lemme know if you need one.

 

[JFH]

3d gear switch

Jim
When I first got T link I had no 3 D Gear
Droped pan and I had no switch on the valve body. Gave the # of the trans to Bruce,( Performance Trans ) .tell me the trans is from a 1984 Olds.! He recommended Eric Shertz in Long Island for a trans,so 1000 and 500 core charge later, I have a beautiful trans
So I hope they but the right trans in your car!
The shop in north Jersey that did this didn't want anything to do with me because the previous owner had the trans work done.No Names but the shop is in Westwood and he bought this shop from a well knonw TR trans guy that now is out in west Jersey and uses his name.( Pat B.)

But revenge is sweet I the mechanic for a town , 15 police cars and 30 asssorted car and trucks guess who will never see one of my vehicles.

John

 

[turbojimmy]

TLink shows 3rd gear never happening. It does show the 4th gear switch, though. Even when 4th is showing, 3rd never does.

I don't know if it's the shop's (Level10) fault or not. It might be something later on in the wiring. I vaguely remember having this problem before the trans was rebuilt but was never really concerned with it. That's why I asked how to check down at the plug to see if there is a signal change there. If so, my problem is later on. If not, I'll need to drop the pan (again).

I'd better have the right f'n trans in the car. Not sure how to tell, but I gave him my original trans (with the correct valve body and so on) so I should at least have the right guts. Where is the 3rd gear switch on the valve body (laying on my back looking up at it)?

If it's normally closed, I look for a break (to ground?) in which wire?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[JFH]

If I rememer on the right side towards the front of the valve body is 3 and towards the rear is 4. Mine only had one switch so I knew something was wrong.

Funny thing Level 10 used to own the trans shop that my car was fu**ed up at.

John

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the info. Based on my dealings with Level10 to date, I'm afraid that having the wrong valve body wouldn't be shocking at all. <sigh>

So if I have the right connector on the outside of the trans, what happens to the wiring on the inside? Is it just hanging there?

Jim

 

[JFH]

You'll just have three wires inside. When you get the pan down Post in the trans section to what you have. I'm sure Bruce (Performance Trans) Will help you out.

John

 

[ThikStik]

i see alot of shops "pull" a trans off the shelf and install into a car. They often pull wiring out of a trans and just set lock up to occur in 4th . TCC is desirable as it causes cooler running on long cruises so for warrantee they at least want it to lock in 4th. I know of Mr Transmission doing this. A typical customer is actually impressed (stupidly) that the trans is "smoother" as it doesnt lock / unlock often.
The TR and Sy/Ty bunch are the only ones locking TCC for performance as far as Ive heard.
IMHO not having the 3rd switch should only prevent 3rd gear lock-up-no biggee unless mph is a factor on track runs.
GL

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the info.

If I ever get back to the track (still working these little bugs out), I'll lock the TC manually anyway.

But, since I've dropped the pan now I'd like to see if I can fix it. I do have the correct VB (which is a relief) with both switches. Looks to me like they just thread into the VB. Can they be tested? Can I just take it out without a bunch of other stuff coming out with it?

As I mentioned before, I think I have a vague recollection of having this problem before the trans was rebuilt. If he used my same VB, that would explain it. I can't find any old TLink files, so I don't know for sure.

If I can't test it, I think I'll just replace it before I put the pan back on. How much can it cost? Where to get (from Bruce, maybe)?

Thanks,
Jim