4.1 Engine Rebuild (Need Help) =]

[charlief1]

Does anyone know who makes an adapter plate for a Q-Jet to my Smokey Yunick Intake?

Pay for the shipping and I'll send you one Mike. I'm not planning on using it so you can have it if you want.:smile:

 

[WarWagon]

Sounds like the normal after market part dilemma.
Bypass on manifold? EGR?

 

[mikejustowns]

Charlief1 I'll take it. Does paypal work for you?

 

[charlief1]

Works fine Mike. PM me your address and I'll get it sent, then worry about paying me.

 

[mikejustowns]

So I think I finally gave up. I cant figure out how to time the cam with the crank shaft. I dont know if the cam is right inline or upside down. Also I lost the spring for the guide on the chain. Ugh I am out of ideas and patience. I am just afraid that after doing all of this work it will not run. =/

 

[mat231v6]

So I think I finally gave up. I cant figure out how to time the cam with the crank shaft. I dont know if the cam is right inline or upside down. Also I lost the spring for the guide on the chain. Ugh I am out of ideas and patience. I am just afraid that after doing all of this work it will not run. =/

easy you line it up dot to dot. use a ruler to make sure its dot to dot. here is a link to a post of mine along time ago. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/297845-need-help.html

 

[WarWagon]

Your alright Mike. Don't sweat it, the cam and timing set are "idiot" proof, The camshaft gear will only go on one way so you can't mess that up. Like Mat posted on a stock or OEM style timing set you line the dot on the Cranksaft sprocket "12-0-clock position" to the dot of the Cam sprocket " 6-o-clock position" Might be a little tough without the dampener spring but just put tension back on that side of the chain when looking at the dots. And also if your using a double roller style timing set you don't have to put the dampener back on, But some people still run it even with the double roller.

 

[mikejustowns]

Your alright Mike. Don't sweat it, the cam and timing set are "idiot" proof, The camshaft gear will only go on one way so you can't mess that up. Like Mat posted on a stock or OEM style timing set you line the dot on the Cranksaft sprocket "12-0-clock position" to the dot of the Cam sprocket " 6-o-clock position" Might be a little tough without the dampener spring but just put tension back on that side of the chain when looking at the dots. And also if your using a double roller style timing set you don't have to put the dampener back on, But some people still run it even with the double roller.

Thanks WarWagon. Monday is my next build day so I will post a picture once I have the new timing set installed.

 

[mikejustowns]

Timing all lined up and timing cover, waterpump, litters and valve covers are installed How do I set up the distributor?

 

[mat231v6]

Timing all lined up and timing cover, waterpump, litters and valve covers are installed How do I set up the distributor?

point the rotor to number one cylinder on the cap.

 

[WarWagon]

Here is what I do Mike to make it easy to install and start Hope it will help you: First thing I do is Set the engine so no1 cylinder is at TDC and verify that the timing mark on the crank pulley is at 0 degrees or very close to it. then I will just slightly nudge the crank until the pointer is showing 12-15 degrees, then make sure the rubber o ring is on the distributor and it's clean with some oil on it. Then I look at the housing for the wires with the connector that plugs into the coil/distributor cap. Once that is located I spin the rotor so that it points to the spot on the distributor housing with those wires. Then this is the point where I locate the distributor hold down bolt on the timing cover, Then I align the distributor housing wires and rotor up with that bolt hole location to see what angle the oil pump drive is on the distributor shaft. I'll use a large flat blade screw driver to turn the oil pump shaft to the same angle the distributor drive looks like, "this just help the final positioning to be easier". Then when it's all close and ready, I'll take the distributor housing in my left hand and spin the rotor with my right hand counter clockwise about 2 to 2 and a half inches, then lower the housing into the cover and then gently turn the rotor clockwise once it bottoms out to engage the cam gear. You may have to raise and lower and turn the rotor a few times to get it right, but when it is in the distributor will be bottomed out in the housing and the rotor should be pointing near the distributor hold down bolt on the cover. The you can just spin the housing again until the wires are lined up with the rotor, then you should have around 12-15 degrees advanced ignition timing to help start it up.

 

[WarWagon]

Just have a timing light on and ready to check it and get it where it needs to be..

 

[mikejustowns]

Hey guys! I am back again with a few more questions. I am getting close and closer to finishing my Regal and am quite excited! So here it goes:

First off I was wondering if someone could explain to me what the large hole in the back left hand corner of my intake manifold is for.

Als I want to know what ports I can plug off. I took out all of the Air Pump and junk.

Here is the pic of the manifold whith the large hole:

I was also wondering where the right place for the bolts were. I know the T45 goes in the Front Drivers side but what about the rest?

 

[charlief1]

It's where the PCV valve goes Mike.

Cut the tube off the cat and plug it. Any other tubes can also be plugged. Welding is the most efficent if it's steel. Otherwise you will need a screw in plug.

 

[WarWagon]

Good deal mike.
There are 10 mounting bolts on the intake manifold. On each side: Two on each corner one in the middle they are all at an angle. If your the first one to use this manifold and it looks that way, You may have to match the ports to the heads. On mine it was brand new and I did have to clean them up, It also said this with the paper work provided with the manifold. Your EGR is not plugged or does not appear to be plugged and you don't have the top on that manifold. The the carb pad top part number is 7471.
That's about the only things to look out for on that manifold.

 

[WarWagon]

Good deal mike.
There are 10 mounting bolts on the intake manifold. On each side: Two on each corner one in the middle they are all at an angle. If your the first one to use this manifold and it looks that way, You may have to match the ports to the heads. On mine it was brand new and I did have to clean them up, It also said this with the paper work provided with the manifold. Your EGR is not plugged or does not appear to be plugged and you don't have the top on that manifold. The the carb pad top part number is 7471.
That's about the only things to look out for on that manifold.

 

[mikejustowns]

Thanks guys. I have the carb pad and am ordering a pcv valve I see on my
old intake a sensor on the front pass side and an adapter for a hose. I also found a little plastic piece that snapped off labeled Egr. ( I thought the egr was the mushroom shaped metal part) installed on the back drivers side. Do I need to put these back on?