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- Thread starter 80/89TTA
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You need a stock replacement with a hardened upper gear. Use the tensioner with it as it keeps noise levels down.
the problem is finding the chain with the hardened upper gear. If you get one thats not hardened, it will start coming apart and have little slivers of metal floating in your oil..
You have to do your research on this, and what the current flavor is for a chain.
The stocker was fine, just 22 years old. Too bad you cant get stockers anymore.
the problem is finding the chain with the hardened upper gear. If you get one thats not hardened, it will start coming apart and have little slivers of metal floating in your oil..
You have to do your research on this, and what the current flavor is for a chain.
The stocker was fine, just 22 years old. Too bad you cant get stockers anymore.
Timing chain is destroyed no plastic (at all) or very little metal teeth left. ALL my pushrods are bent including #2 intake at a 90 degree one lifter broke!
I am glad i was not getting on it good no telling what would have happenned.
I can not in good faith put this thing back together without taking it apart first to thouroughly clean out and inspect and or repair.
Razor, have to disagree....this is a really poor design! there are cars with 200K + with the original METAL timing chain.
Just venting!
thanks for everyones help.
I am glad i was not getting on it good no telling what would have happenned.
I can not in good faith put this thing back together without taking it apart first to thouroughly clean out and inspect and or repair.
Razor, have to disagree....this is a really poor design! there are cars with 200K + with the original METAL timing chain.
Just venting!
thanks for everyones help.
All apart inspection done two bent valves slight but bent, 12 push rods and 12 non-factory valve reliefs in the pistons. Good news holes still have visible cross hatching rings and pistons still have a very nice fit, bearings cam and main are good - not checking rod bearings - the combustion side of the motor is remarkably clean the lubrication side had some build up also the cooling passages could be cleaner. Found the exhaust header leake #2 where the tube is welded to the flange.
I really thought i had a clean motor on the outside until i pulled it apart so i can clean all that up now. I will chalk this up to an un-scheduled scheduled maintenance.
I will upgrade slightly....can not pull a motor apart with out it going back together W/ more power! so head work and small cam is in order.
I really thought i had a clean motor on the outside until i pulled it apart so i can clean all that up now. I will chalk this up to an un-scheduled scheduled maintenance.
I will upgrade slightly....can not pull a motor apart with out it going back together W/ more power! so head work and small cam is in order.
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- Nov 24, 2001
- Messages
- 11,267
Wow I was not expecting that kind of damage. I do have a set of tts rods and pistons with 9 k on them and a brand new set of tta heads.
Tta pushrods are diff than gn. I think they are same as ford 460'cid. Email if interested
Tta pushrods are diff than gn. I think they are same as ford 460'cid. Email if interested
I appreciate it I am ordering pushrods from Brian, I do not need rods and pistons although Valves will be needed but i will wait to hear from machine shop on amount of valves.
Yes, i am impressed with the amount of damage considering i was not working it hard it let loose again when i turned the car off ( it probably moved before that) all the impact marks say otherwise....funny how it went from wiring and electronics to hard part failure. I wish it would have completely came off the sprocket because i checked for chain amongst the first things....but valves and cam sensor were turning over when cranking.
I do not reply much to this site but visit it often.....really because i do not race my GN or 89 TTA but i am sure to pass along any advice that you guys have brought up and referance this site for material.
My first bit of advice:
if your timing chain is original change it out before anything else and i mean anything, even before your first oil change!
Yes, i am impressed with the amount of damage considering i was not working it hard it let loose again when i turned the car off ( it probably moved before that) all the impact marks say otherwise....funny how it went from wiring and electronics to hard part failure. I wish it would have completely came off the sprocket because i checked for chain amongst the first things....but valves and cam sensor were turning over when cranking.
I do not reply much to this site but visit it often.....really because i do not race my GN or 89 TTA but i am sure to pass along any advice that you guys have brought up and referance this site for material.
My first bit of advice:
if your timing chain is original change it out before anything else and i mean anything, even before your first oil change!
bmackinnon
Active Member
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- Feb 24, 2005
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- 2,092
I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be leaving the pistons in there with their new 'non-factory valve reliefs'.... Is it possible the crowns of the pistons could have cracked and the cracks are only visible from the underneath side? I'd be checking VERY closely for cracks, if nothing else... I think I'd also be concerned about the new reliefs being a source of 'hot-spots' upon reuse.... just sayin'.... :wink:
I am with you in regards to stress fractures. they (pistons) will be inspected before motor is back together.
the pock marks on the pistons, i will smooth out with an abrasive pad and die grinder. the amount of material that will be lost is miniscule so no problem there.
I am in no hurry to get it together so it will be a couple of weeks until it runs again that way it will be done right and upgraded properly. gives me a chance to address cleaning, new cables, all new wire conduit and new GM fasteners.
I was working on the 80TTA when this happenned....so now i can finish that.
the pock marks on the pistons, i will smooth out with an abrasive pad and die grinder. the amount of material that will be lost is miniscule so no problem there.
I am in no hurry to get it together so it will be a couple of weeks until it runs again that way it will be done right and upgraded properly. gives me a chance to address cleaning, new cables, all new wire conduit and new GM fasteners.
I was working on the 80TTA when this happenned....so now i can finish that.
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- Nov 24, 2001
- Messages
- 11,267
Hey Julio good to see ya 
I must also mention since u stripped all the plastic off and got into metal , u need to tear apart the oil pump and double check the gears. The pump kits are fairly cheap at oreillys. If the pump is grooved might yank motor and do bearings.
Can't believe all the damage, it must have jumped a tooth when u were under boost. That's why it bent alot of the pushrods. It didn't do it when you shut it off.
Got pictures of the upper gear?
I must also mention since u stripped all the plastic off and got into metal , u need to tear apart the oil pump and double check the gears. The pump kits are fairly cheap at oreillys. If the pump is grooved might yank motor and do bearings. Can't believe all the damage, it must have jumped a tooth when u were under boost. That's why it bent alot of the pushrods. It didn't do it when you shut it off.
Got pictures of the upper gear?
Bryan.. these timing chains never really let go all at once. I bet its been coming apart for a while.. then one day.. you beat on it.. whalla.. there it goes.
I was going to say oil cooler but realized plastic isnt an issue on bearings.
I was going to say oil cooler but realized plastic isnt an issue on bearings.
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- May 9, 2002
- Messages
- 2,576
Corporate memory still around...
Thanks to men like Bryan and Julio, we have a LOT of experience to fall back on here at TB.com. When they talk, I listen. Thanks guys
Thanks to men like Bryan and Julio, we have a LOT of experience to fall back on here at TB.com. When they talk, I listen. Thanks guys
Rebuild
Hi 80/89TTA,
I'm sorry to read about your misfortune but HEY! Every cloud has a silver linning. Now I'm not going to give you advice but, I can tell you what I did and would do. I've read the posts on this thread and came out of it with a view as you being a no bull**** guy. So here we go!
For this kind of problem you need to yank that motor out. Others will say no but, it's the best way to go. Strip it down to the short block and put it in a GOOD machine shop. Not one that does 350 chebby's or ruststang motors but, an all purpose shop that has done the 3.8 before. It's time to build a motor! Contact Dan Stresso at 219-956-3653 and get his crank (either stock style or stroker) your choice. You can get rods from him or get Corrella, Oliver or Corwer. As long as their forged steel. Get GOOD forged aluminium pistons, what ever brand you choose, Wiseco, J&E, Srtesso what ever! Do get a Stresso roller cam kit, ask him his advice for your application. The push rods will need to be measured but thats simple. Look into roller rockers, the guys on this forum like the Harland Sharp set up, I designed my own with Crane rockers, if you want to know how to do it, just contact me. My consulting fee is 2K and a 1 year (weekly) of Edradour single malt Scotch! HEY! I'm IRISH!
OK! I regress! You will also need a new oil pump, simple, Melling high volume. I'm not sure anymore but, if you can find a Buick vendor like Cottons or Red Armstrong they will be able to find the forged steel main bearing caps. Oh Yea! You'll wanna know about the heads. Your choice should be Ferrera valves! There is none better and go with 1.775 intakes. I have no idea about who you will choose for your head work but, just don't choose Champion. If I've left something unsaid just email me with your contact info.
Mine - 89icbm@att.net
ebuild
Hi 80/89TTA,
I'm sorry to read about your misfortune but HEY! Every cloud has a silver linning. Now I'm not going to give you advice but, I can tell you what I did and would do. I've read the posts on this thread and came out of it with a view as you being a no bull**** guy. So here we go!
For this kind of problem you need to yank that motor out. Others will say no but, it's the best way to go. Strip it down to the short block and put it in a GOOD machine shop. Not one that does 350 chebby's or ruststang motors but, an all purpose shop that has done the 3.8 before. It's time to build a motor! Contact Dan Stresso at 219-956-3653 and get his crank (either stock style or stroker) your choice. You can get rods from him or get Corrella, Oliver or Corwer. As long as their forged steel. Get GOOD forged aluminium pistons, what ever brand you choose, Wiseco, J&E, Srtesso what ever! Do get a Stresso roller cam kit, ask him his advice for your application. The push rods will need to be measured but thats simple. Look into roller rockers, the guys on this forum like the Harland Sharp set up, I designed my own with Crane rockers, if you want to know how to do it, just contact me. My consulting fee is 2K and a 1 year (weekly) of Edradour single malt Scotch! HEY! I'm IRISH!
OK! I regress! You will also need a new oil pump, simple, Melling high volume. I'm not sure anymore but, if you can find a Buick vendor like Cottons or Red Armstrong they will be able to find the forged steel main bearing caps. Oh Yea! You'll wanna know about the heads. Your choice should be Ferrera valves! There is none better and go with 1.775 intakes. I have no idea about who you will choose for your head work but, just don't choose Champion. If I've left something unsaid just email me with your contact info.
Mine - 89icbm@att.net
ebuild
Drove car for the first time in a couple of weeks yesterday and while driving noticed did not come on boost well, felt slower and boost only rose to 14psi....slowly.
Hi 80/89TTA,
I'm sorry to read about your misfortune but HEY! Every cloud has a silver linning. Now I'm not going to give you advice but, I can tell you what I did and would do. I've read the posts on this thread and came out of it with a view as you being a no bull**** guy. So here we go!
For this kind of problem you need to yank that motor out. Others will say no but, it's the best way to go. Strip it down to the short block and put it in a GOOD machine shop. Not one that does 350 chebby's or ruststang motors but, an all purpose shop that has done the 3.8 before. It's time to build a motor! Contact Dan Stresso at 219-956-3653 and get his crank (either stock style or stroker) your choice. You can get rods from him or get Corrella, Oliver or Corwer. As long as their forged steel. Get GOOD forged aluminium pistons, what ever brand you choose, Wiseco, J&E, Srtesso what ever! Do get a Stresso roller cam kit, ask him his advice for your application. The push rods will need to be measured but thats simple. Look into roller rockers, the guys on this forum like the Harland Sharp set up, I designed my own with Crane rockers, if you want to know how to do it, just contact me. My consulting fee is 2K and a 1 year (weekly) of Edradour single malt Scotch! HEY! I'm IRISH!
OK! I regress! You will also need a new oil pump, simple, Melling high volume. I'm not sure anymore but, if you can find a Buick vendor like Cottons or Red Armstrong they will be able to find the forged steel main bearing caps. Oh Yea! You'll wanna know about the heads. Your choice should be Ferrera valves! There is none better and go with 1.775 intakes. I have no idea about who you will choose for your head work but, just don't choose Champion. If I've left something unsaid just email me with your contact info.
Mine - 89icbm@att.net
