#8 or #10 fuel line?
- Thread starter slopokin
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- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 10,866
You could get away with the 8, but if you are doing it why do it twice? I say if you every plan on 1000hp plus go with the -10.
I went with a -10 on a low ten motor because I knew that I was going to build a twin turbo stage 2 motor next. Always plan at least 1 upgrade in the future. You will save money in the long run.
The only thing with the -10 is that you have to have enough pump for the extra volume you have. My SX worked ok!
I went with a -10 on a low ten motor because I knew that I was going to build a twin turbo stage 2 motor next. Always plan at least 1 upgrade in the future. You will save money in the long run.
The only thing with the -10 is that you have to have enough pump for the extra volume you have. My SX worked ok!
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 10,866
This is what my system looked like
-Stock Tank
-Stock pick-up with 1/2 copper tube in welded in - 10 feed line
- -10 line clamped on the 1/2 copper line and then going to
the sx filter
- -10 out of filter all the way to the alternator
- reduced to a -8 to the stock rail
- fitting on the regulator and -6 line to the stock feed line where it comes out of the frame
- stock feed line as return back into the stock tank.
This is a pretty good systems unless you 60 foot real well.
I that case you would be better off with a gravity feed.
You can sump the stock tank or buy a cell.
I mounted my pump and filter with a cartech plate.
I then mounted that to the car using the front bolts that hold
the stock gas tank up. Very Stealth !!!! =)
-Stock Tank
-Stock pick-up with 1/2 copper tube in welded in - 10 feed line
- -10 line clamped on the 1/2 copper line and then going to
the sx filter
- -10 out of filter all the way to the alternator
- reduced to a -8 to the stock rail
- fitting on the regulator and -6 line to the stock feed line where it comes out of the frame
- stock feed line as return back into the stock tank.
This is a pretty good systems unless you 60 foot real well.
I that case you would be better off with a gravity feed.
You can sump the stock tank or buy a cell.
I mounted my pump and filter with a cartech plate.
I then mounted that to the car using the front bolts that hold
the stock gas tank up. Very Stealth !!!! =)
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 10,866
Good luck and let me know how it turns out!
i have dual -10 lines feeding the new tt sbc, each one has its own pump, street driving will only have on on, when the throttle goes past 3/4 or when the nitrous is armed, the 2nd on kicks in, don't want to learn her out, but then again i am sourcing the braided hose and conections from a very cheap source 
Grant
Grant
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,706
FYI Per Aeromotive
Several items come to mind when doing this project.
1. The SX pump most likely is borderline for a 10 flat combo. I suggest the Aeromotive Eliminator pump. [BTDT!]
2. The filter that goes BEFORE the pump is a 70 to 100 micron trash catcher, not a 10 micron "clean fuel" filter. DO NOT put the 10 micron B4 the pump. If you have a check valve, it too goes AFTER the pump.
3. The inlet line of the pump is always larger than the outlet. This is to assure the pump has sufficient volume to prevent cavitation.
IE: -10 in/-8 out. -12 in/-10 out.
4. The Aeromotive PRO series pump requires a different regulator and also needs a -8 return. The Eliminator can use a -6 return.
5. The return in the tank must be as far from the pickup as possible. This minimizes the hot fuel being returned to the engine. It also prevents the pickup of aerated fuel....
6. Don't forget to vent the tank!!!
Wanna get it from the horses mouth?? Call Brett Clow at Aeromotive! His fone is: 913-647-7300 X 3.
Several items come to mind when doing this project.
1. The SX pump most likely is borderline for a 10 flat combo. I suggest the Aeromotive Eliminator pump. [BTDT!]
2. The filter that goes BEFORE the pump is a 70 to 100 micron trash catcher, not a 10 micron "clean fuel" filter. DO NOT put the 10 micron B4 the pump. If you have a check valve, it too goes AFTER the pump.
3. The inlet line of the pump is always larger than the outlet. This is to assure the pump has sufficient volume to prevent cavitation.
IE: -10 in/-8 out. -12 in/-10 out.
4. The Aeromotive PRO series pump requires a different regulator and also needs a -8 return. The Eliminator can use a -6 return.
5. The return in the tank must be as far from the pickup as possible. This minimizes the hot fuel being returned to the engine. It also prevents the pickup of aerated fuel....
6. Don't forget to vent the tank!!!
Wanna get it from the horses mouth?? Call Brett Clow at Aeromotive! His fone is: 913-647-7300 X 3.
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 2,297
Chuck,
Your recommendations above are great. I still have to get the pump and lines to put my car together. I will go with #10 line from the pump and #12 from the tank to the pump.
Is there any problem using the stock fuel supply line as the return line? I beleive it is 3/8".
FWIW I bought a SX pump from a friend and I had Kinsler flow test it. They told me it was operating properly (nothing wrong) but it would only support around 550HP. They recommended a Weldon 2015 instead. (I sold him back the pump)
What model Aeromotive pump are you using? Are you happy with Aeromotive? Anybody else?? I only want to buy ONE fuel pump. So it has to be the right one the first time.
Dave
Your recommendations above are great. I still have to get the pump and lines to put my car together. I will go with #10 line from the pump and #12 from the tank to the pump.
Is there any problem using the stock fuel supply line as the return line? I beleive it is 3/8".
FWIW I bought a SX pump from a friend and I had Kinsler flow test it. They told me it was operating properly (nothing wrong) but it would only support around 550HP. They recommended a Weldon 2015 instead. (I sold him back the pump)
What model Aeromotive pump are you using? Are you happy with Aeromotive? Anybody else?? I only want to buy ONE fuel pump. So it has to be the right one the first time.
Dave
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,706
Pump choice??
I use the Eliminator series Aeromotive pump, regulator and filter. The guys at Aeromotive tell me it'll work on the street.
I have a NEW Weldon, in the box, in stock. They are expensive!
I don't recall the exact net on it, but as I remember, it was in the $500 range..
As for the return line. It's about a 3/8" OD and has serious restrictions at the fittings for the filter and at the ft end near the engine. These restrictions are where the o'ring seals fit..
I am using the stock tank and have the -6 return line AN fitting welded to the upper corner of the dr side of the tank. It has a steel tube extending down into the fuel along the side of the tank. This cuts down on foaming the fuel caused by blowing it out into the air in the tank.
As for the pickup, I have a -12 bulkhead fitting in the bottom of the tank that picks up fuel in the plastic baffle area that's in all GN tanks..
Seems to work ok. I have a data logger on the car that monitors fuel press. and it shows a steady PSI during a run..
On the engine, I have large bore rails that are individually fed w/ -8 from a manifold. The rear of the rails are plumbed to the reg and then back to the tank.
The elec. feed is a relay system wired w/ #10 wire and I have added several grounds also. The relay is triggered by the stock pump wire, thru the FAST system
HTH,
I use the Eliminator series Aeromotive pump, regulator and filter. The guys at Aeromotive tell me it'll work on the street.
I have a NEW Weldon, in the box, in stock. They are expensive!
I don't recall the exact net on it, but as I remember, it was in the $500 range..
As for the return line. It's about a 3/8" OD and has serious restrictions at the fittings for the filter and at the ft end near the engine. These restrictions are where the o'ring seals fit..
I am using the stock tank and have the -6 return line AN fitting welded to the upper corner of the dr side of the tank. It has a steel tube extending down into the fuel along the side of the tank. This cuts down on foaming the fuel caused by blowing it out into the air in the tank.
As for the pickup, I have a -12 bulkhead fitting in the bottom of the tank that picks up fuel in the plastic baffle area that's in all GN tanks..
Seems to work ok. I have a data logger on the car that monitors fuel press. and it shows a steady PSI during a run..
On the engine, I have large bore rails that are individually fed w/ -8 from a manifold. The rear of the rails are plumbed to the reg and then back to the tank.
The elec. feed is a relay system wired w/ #10 wire and I have added several grounds also. The relay is triggered by the stock pump wire, thru the FAST system
HTH,
J
JCotton
Guest
Chuck is right on with the line size to allow these pumps to work properly. I use the Aeromotive pumps as well as carry most of their product in stock. There are actually 3 pumps we carry, one is good for up to 700HP, next is 900HP and then the Pro series which will support around 1250HP. The cost are, in the same order, $289.00, $389 and the Pro series at around 550 or so.
As for my car, I have about 500 passes on my Pro series pump and some pretty good street time as well, no problems with mine or any of my customers I have sold to. They are one of the best on the market.
As for my car, I have about 500 passes on my Pro series pump and some pretty good street time as well, no problems with mine or any of my customers I have sold to. They are one of the best on the market.
We use lots of Aeromotive products in the shop, good stuff, good pricing.
However I would only use a Weldon on my vehicle. If I got to spec the parts in the shop evey fuel system would be built around a Weldon, but most of the time cost is what matters most.
Don't second guess Kinsler.
Chris S
However I would only use a Weldon on my vehicle. If I got to spec the parts in the shop evey fuel system would be built around a Weldon, but most of the time cost is what matters most.
Don't second guess Kinsler.
Chris S
