80 turbo ESC

['80RegalT-type]

I just built an 80 turbo 231 to put in my 79 sport coupe and the ESC is missing. Does anyone know of an aftermarket esc that would work? Or how i can find out which esc to get, the junkyard says they made like 10 different ones and the dealership says there were 2 different ones. Closed and open loop, differences?
Will not having this make my motor have no power at all? I've tried changing timing and adjusting carbuerator but i have very little power

 

[b4black]

There are two basic setups, with an ECM (closed loop) and without (open), but in each type there are several controllers.

The 78/80 Turbo V6 uses a open loop ESC controller. It is a box labeled the "Turbo Control Center." Differences from model to model and year to year would likely just be the lengths of the wiring. In '79 it was placed on the radiator shroud, in '80 it was under the dash.

Also, the '79 intake was cast iron, and the knock sensor was above the thermostat. In '80, the intake was aluminum, and the sensor was moved to the block, underneath the EGR valve.


If I remembe right, not having the ESC controller will cause the timing to be retarded all the time. Peter mentioned which to wires on the distributor's harness needed to be jumped to bypass the ESC. Try reading his webpage: Pete's Buick Page


Also try this page:
Knock Knock page

 

[fc227]

What does that purple wire go to any how ? Any one ever scope that wire while tapping the sensor?

 

[fc227]

That should say , what does that purlpe wire do?

 

[Peter]

To run the car without the ESC connected you should jumper the green wire, pin2, to the black wire ,pin 4, on the distributor side.

This is Buicks test for a duff ESC unit.

It has been my experience that the ESC affects the ignition timing under all conditions, and driving the car with the ESC disconnected will result in gross detonation.

See http://petesbuick.topcities.com/ if you cannot get an ESC unit.

 

[81turbota]

I have my esc (81 turbo ta) permanently disconnected and have no detonation problems even with my timing advanced to 14 degrees initial from a stock 8 deg, i get mild detonation at high rpm under full boost, just before the trans up shifts, i plan on installing a msd and then upping the boost some more, and all this is with a stock thermostat, with a lower coolant temp 160 range, i get no detonation.

 

[Peter]

I know that the 78 is a different animal to all of the other turbo cars. It seems that everything changed after 78. [ A dog maybe??]The initial advance on the 78 is 15 degrees.

 

['80RegalT-type]

I checked out petes web page but his system is a bit advanced for me so I went for the MSD Boost controller. Piece of cake to install, looks and works good. Still don't have any low end power up to 1500 rpms, once it hits 1500 she boogies but nothing up until then. I installed a B & M 2600 stall converter and stage 2 shift kit. Is 2600 too much? not enough? I'm still wondering if the bigger cam I put in is killing the low end.

 

[Ttype83]

Originally posted by fc227
What does that purple wire go to any how ? Any one ever scope that wire while tapping the sensor?

I'm wondering now too.

 

[Ttype83]

Originally posted by '80RegalT-type
I checked out petes web page but his system is a bit advanced for me.

ME too

Still don't have any low end power up to 1500 rpms, once it hits 1500 she boogies but nothing up until then.

Do you still have the cat on? if yes it could be clugged or the muffler.
What rear gear do you have?

I installed a B & M 2600 stall converter and stage 2 shift kit. Is 2600 too much? not enough? I'm still wondering if the bigger cam I put in is killing the low end.

I don't think that the stall is to high, I have been thinking of going with a 2800 stall.
How big of cam?

 

[b4black]

I believe the purple wire is connected to a relay which is connected to the starter circuit. This lets the controller know whe the starter is engaging. While starting there is a lot of fasle knocking and without it, the controller would try to retard timing while cranking and the engine wouldn't start.

I have my esc (81 turbo ta) permanently disconnected and have no detonation problems even with my timing advanced to 14 degrees initial from a stock 8 deg, i get mild detonation at high rpm under full boost, just before the trans up shifts, i plan on installing a msd and then upping the boost some more, and all this is with a stock thermostat, with a lower coolant temp 160 range, i get no detonation.

I have heard from some Turbo V6 owners that have done this as well. I think at our power levels, we can get away with it for a while. But plenty of faster cars have blown head gaskets and worse when they detonated severly. I would try it only on a motor I didn't care about.

You can't here most detonation. If you can here it, it is not "mild". With an 81 TTA, there is a ECM, so a scan tool can be used to check a se if the ESC is reading knocks or not.

Another alternative is to use a knock gauge like Casper's Electronics sells. It connects to the ESC before the ECM. Then make the disconnection of the ESC at the ECM. It won't be able to retard the timing, but you'll at least you'll see if the engine is knocking or not.

 

['80RegalT-type]

In my car there are two purple wires. Whoever origianlly took the turbo motor out and replaced it with a non turbo 231 connected them together and ran a lead from them to the starter. I believe that one came from the ignition. I'm not positive but I think i saw somewhere that the other purple wire went to the esc switch.

 

[b4black]

Originally posted by b4black
Also try this page:
Knock Knock page

On this page is the ESC wiring diagram. There is a complete purple wire circuit, not just one wire. From the ignition to the starter to the relay to the controller.