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.82 exhaust housing

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crazygn

10's here i come
Joined
Jun 11, 2001
Messages
1,583
What is with the bigger housing more top end power or something , i have one on my ta54 but dont know much about it. Will it make my car spool slower with it or the same as the .63.


My car spools so slow it would take the whole 1/4 mile to start to boost. I also have a 2000rpm stall right now:eek:
 
It's supposed to lessen the back press @ full boost/ rpm. It does spool slower (not with a ballbearing turbo:D )
 
You should have got the TA54 with .63 A/R housing if you wanted quicker spool up and yes the larger .82 and .85 A/R housings usually give you more top end mph, but they need more stall to make them have decent spool up and not be laggy...... Also, a 2000 stall converter will NOT get the job done!!! You need a 9" 3500 stall converter to make that 54 turbo spool and if you have a chip that is rich on the low end this will also cause the turbo to feel laggy.
HTH:)
 
I have a turbo 350 in it now tell i can get my brf trans and non locking ac 2800 stall back in, i will be buying a 3500 soon i hope. Iam also running a reds 93 chip i here they run rich, should i try my joe L 93 chip.

thanks guys
 
I would try the Joe Lubrant 93 chip cause some of Red's 93 street chips are very rich on the low end which causes the turbo to be laggy and last time I heard Red doesn't burn chips for the 50lb injectors (he doesn't like them), but I've seen a good amount of guys using Joe's street and race chips with the 50's and saying they worked very well!:) The chip might help, but until you get a 3500 stall converter I would think the car will still be laggy. Good luck:cool:
 
yea the 3500 stall is a must for me when the brf go's back in. Does the 3500 work good on the street or is it not a very good street stall. I'll try the JL93 chip this week and see what happens.


thanks for the info.
 
I only have a 12" 2800 stall converter with my TE44 turbo so I can't really say, but I did take a ride in a car that had an Art Carr 9" NL 3800 stall converter and I didn't think it was that bad for the street, but opinions seem to vary on this topic.... The converters with a lot of stall seem to create more heat so make sure you have a good tranny cooler and I think if you want the best street manners with a 3500 stall converter you would be better off with a Lock-Up style converter like the 9-11 Bruce (WE4) sells (I think you can get one for about $500) or the 9.5" Precision lock ups seem to work pretty well but they aren't cheap (about $1k for one if my memory serves me correct).
 
Intercooler, you must be cause he told me a while back when I was ordering my injectors that the 009's were better than the 50's and that he had seen tests that proved it, so I went with the 009's and his chips. I'm pretty sure if you were to call and ask him what are the biggest injectors you can run with the stock unmodified ECM he would tell you 009's cause he won't burn a chip for the 50's or he would tell you to send your ECM to him to be modified for some 55's. I kind of wish I went with the 50's, but at that point I didn't know what I know now thanks to this site and the 50's were more expensive if I remember correctly. You are a lucky guy;) :D
 
I have a pte 54 with the 85 housing on it, with a AC 3500 n/l. I'm only able to build about 5lbs of boost before my Nittos break loose at the line so I can't give any track data. I would say my car spools as good if not better than stock with this setup.
 
The 54 actually has a .85 precision housing. On my car that turbo would spool faster than a stock turbo with a 3500 N/L converter.

I'm running a P-Trim 70 on the 86/7 setup now with the .85 housing and the spool up is a little slower, but still not bad at all.

With a 2000 stall converter i'm surprised that you could get it to spool in a 1/4 mile :) I remember trying to spool a TA-61 with a 2500 stall converter... you would be at about the 330 mark before you saw boost.

As for the 3500 N/L working good on the street. I won't go back to a lockup. The high stall converter makes the car a ball to drive, but it still can be docile when the police are around ;)
 
Thanks guys, hey chris the 54 that i bought from you works great and has a lot of pull but i just need the 3500 stall to make it run right. It does take most of fist gear to spool, chris did you run over 17-18 psi, thats all i can get out of it with the wg all the way in.

1- fix tranny
2- 3500 stall
3- maybe some good track times:D
 
I love my 3500 nl for the street. The only time I really notice it in day to day driving is backing out of a parking spot. When I had the D5 I would put it in gear and back out, now I have to give is a very little amount of gas. Other than that, I really don't notice the difference in regular driving. Well, I do notice the lack of locking and unlocking of the converter. I've drove manuals for the past 10 years, and when I got this car it drove me nuts when the converter would lock and unlock driving around town.
 
Originally posted by crazygn
chris did you run over 17-18 psi, thats all i can get out of it with the wg all the way in.

I had it up to 26# using a bleeder valve. I just set the rod where I used it on the street (17psi) and used the bleeder to get more.

I only raced with it at 21, but when I got back from vegas (still in race trim) I turned up the wick a bit since I still had the race gas and it pulled REAL good at 26psi :)
 
where can i get a bleeder valve and how does it work, ive never seen one . Can i make one or do i have to buy it some where. That turbo pulls nice at 17 psi.


thanks guys:)
 
Originally posted by crazygn
where can i get a bleeder valve and how does it work, ive never seen one . Can i make one or do i have to buy it some where. That turbo pulls nice at 17 psi.


thanks guys:)

Well, you can go spend a bit of money and buy a bleed valve kit, like most people do,,, or,,, if you want to do what we did 10+ years ago, you can go to your local fish/aquarium store and ask for a 2-way aquarium gang valve, for about $5. If you choose this route, email me and I'll tell you how to hook it up. I expect I'll receive a ton of beratement over this, because the "big dogs" will think I'm being blasphemous by suggesting it. However, I've run in on all 3 of my budget Buicks, and have had no problems. It just looks kinda funny. As long as you have a good heavy duty actuator on the turbo itself, you can use this setup to bleed pressure and hit 20+ psi of boost.:eek: But, if you do have the money, you'd be best getting the proper kit. Also, per your other statement of only getting 17-18psi with he actuator turned in all the way; It sounds to me like you may have reversed the metered "Y" (it's gray plastic) vacuum lines when installing the new turbo. If those lines get crossed, it will only allow 17-18psi, no matter what you try to bleed off. I learned this the hard way, after having a "blonde" moment... Look into it, just for grins.
 
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