TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
i can't remember 100%
but i think i used the Monte's OE fuel lines.
but i think i used the Monte's OE fuel lines.
84 monte to 231 turbo
- Thread starter Ezmonte
- Start date
Our Monte was a 305 and the lines were in the wrong spot plus it lacked a return line. I used Buick fuel lines for which the feed runs down the driver side and the return down the passenger side. Also note the Buick has the fuel filter mounted on the driver side frame rail back near the lower control arm. Dont forget the filter!! The Buick rail lines go from the driver side up along the timing cover. There is actually a hole in the frame rail on the driver side where the feed and vapor recovery line comes through. You could use the vapor recovery line as your return. You just wont be able to use the Saginaw style fitting that the rail lines use. Cut the hose that is crimped to the rail line off the return and use high pressure fuel injection hose with clamps. The vapor recovery line is actually a more reasonably sized line since the return on a Buick is like 5/16 and necks down the 1/4 back above the tank.
I used a tank for a tbi 4.3 V6 Monte which is the same baffled tank as the 84-87 turbo Regals. The fuel sending unit is also very similar. I had to modify the feed line where the rubber hose from the pump hooks on since it was longer to compensate for the shorter intank tbi pump. You will obviously need a high pressure pump since the tbi pump outputs less than 20 psi.
I used a tank for a tbi 4.3 V6 Monte which is the same baffled tank as the 84-87 turbo Regals. The fuel sending unit is also very similar. I had to modify the feed line where the rubber hose from the pump hooks on since it was longer to compensate for the shorter intank tbi pump. You will obviously need a high pressure pump since the tbi pump outputs less than 20 psi.
Get a buick tank ($100), and run some new lines for a Buick... I would have to dig around, but there is a company that makes both the feed and return, and it comes in a complete kit, PRE BENT and everything for $169.00...
Or you could always run some yourself, they are easy to bend.
I would not use the Monte Lines... fwiw.
P.S.. you may want to take into consideration what you want this car to run later on...
How much power... I left room for lots of growth in my car and ran 1/2" feed and a 3/8"return line... is overkill, but at least I wont ever have to buy it again!
Or you could always run some yourself, they are easy to bend.
I would not use the Monte Lines... fwiw.
P.S.. you may want to take into consideration what you want this car to run later on...
How much power... I left room for lots of growth in my car and ran 1/2" feed and a 3/8"return line... is overkill, but at least I wont ever have to buy it again!
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
I have got the gn tank and started to unbolt the fuel lines.What is agood aftermarket fuel pump to put in the tank dont trust the stock one also is it worth the money to use the caspers up graded fuel pump wire harness?
FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Items Page
You will still need to run the factory harness to the tank, and add the hotwire kit...
You will still need to run the factory harness to the tank, and add the hotwire kit...
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
The hot wire kit doesn't replace the factory harness?then I need the wiring from the fuse block to the tank.
If you are going in tank, use the walbro in-tank pump that everyone uses here. You can get it a number of places.
Hot wire kit was meant to work with factory harness, so it wont exactly work.
I made my own "hotwire" kit. Buy a really nice 40 amp relay from Caspers with a harness... it should come with some 10 gauge wire connected to it.
Then run to alternator, ground, pump, and there is a green wire with a yellow stripe (i think... i have to check) on the passenger side firewall at the factory relay over there... that wire switches on/off the fuel pump when the key is turned on. It cylces for a second or two, then kicks off... once engine starts, it stays running.
Thats how I did it. I can tell you how to wire it exactly once you get the relay.
Hot wire kit was meant to work with factory harness, so it wont exactly work.
I made my own "hotwire" kit. Buy a really nice 40 amp relay from Caspers with a harness... it should come with some 10 gauge wire connected to it.
Then run to alternator, ground, pump, and there is a green wire with a yellow stripe (i think... i have to check) on the passenger side firewall at the factory relay over there... that wire switches on/off the fuel pump when the key is turned on. It cylces for a second or two, then kicks off... once engine starts, it stays running.
Thats how I did it. I can tell you how to wire it exactly once you get the relay.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
And don't forget to put a hidden toggle switch as an anti theft device
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
Thanks guys this is real helpful I know I will have more questions i the future.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
Here's one in my 84' Hurst Olds.
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
Is there anything besides the fuel pump that I have to run hot wires for?
If you mean hot wires as 12V positive, then YES, if you mean Hot wires like ones off the alternator, then no.
You need to run a 12v ignition positive to the injector harness (pink wire/black stripe) or your injectors will not work.
If you are using the factory harness for the electric fans, you will need to get 12V to the brown wires on the relays for the fans on the drivers side.
You also have to hook the orange wire up to the battery from the ECM, that is the main power for the ecm.
Thats all I can think of at the moment..
You need to run a 12v ignition positive to the injector harness (pink wire/black stripe) or your injectors will not work.
If you are using the factory harness for the electric fans, you will need to get 12V to the brown wires on the relays for the fans on the drivers side.
You also have to hook the orange wire up to the battery from the ECM, that is the main power for the ecm.
Thats all I can think of at the moment..
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
Dude I just started the wiring on my chevelle on Sunday ohh BTW I finished on Sunday.
I used a Casper’s dash mating wire harness. And it was the easiest part of the project.
It’s a lot of money but if you are like me (I can’t a wiring diagram if my life was on the line) then its money well spent.
When I did my Monte I used the Buick dash so I really didn’t need it, it was all plug and play.
I used a Casper’s dash mating wire harness. And it was the easiest part of the project.
It’s a lot of money but if you are like me (I can’t a wiring diagram if my life was on the line) then its money well spent.
When I did my Monte I used the Buick dash so I really didn’t need it, it was all plug and play.
Our Monte used an original 86 harness that was modified by myself and a friend. I eliminated the factory electric fan set up as well as the factory fuel pump wiring.
For the fans I used dual 11" Spal's uitilizing the 2 smaller factory relays. I have a junction block at the positive post on the battery. I ran an 8 gauge wire to each fan. I used the fan output off the ecm to trigger them so they go on and off per the setting in the chip. I eliminated the sensor on the left side of the intake as it is a redundant sensor. There is NO voltage drop when running them this way and I run them full speed without a resistor as the factory did to get multiple speeds on the stock fan
For the pump I utilized the factory relay for a trigger. I ran a 4 gauge off the battery with an inline fuse (car stereo stuff) back to a junction block in the back. where that hooks into another relay. My 4 gauge is the feed for the pump. Again, no voltage drop. Under the dash required a trip to the salvage yard to get a pair of IP connectors (the clear plastic connectors behind the glove box). This was to make the ALDL/diagnostic connector fully functional as it would be on a turbo Regal. There were some wires moved around on the C100 block (where engine harness plugs into the fuse box).
I should noted that there were no other mods needed to the Monte body harness. The fuse box is all Monte. All the stock gauges, a/c, etc works as GM meant for it. Make sure you swap over your sender for the oil pressure gauge if you have one and make sure you keep the tach filter (looks like a condensor for points) on the firewall. That has to be hooked into the tach output on the Buick ignition module.
For the fans I used dual 11" Spal's uitilizing the 2 smaller factory relays. I have a junction block at the positive post on the battery. I ran an 8 gauge wire to each fan. I used the fan output off the ecm to trigger them so they go on and off per the setting in the chip. I eliminated the sensor on the left side of the intake as it is a redundant sensor. There is NO voltage drop when running them this way and I run them full speed without a resistor as the factory did to get multiple speeds on the stock fan
For the pump I utilized the factory relay for a trigger. I ran a 4 gauge off the battery with an inline fuse (car stereo stuff) back to a junction block in the back. where that hooks into another relay. My 4 gauge is the feed for the pump. Again, no voltage drop. Under the dash required a trip to the salvage yard to get a pair of IP connectors (the clear plastic connectors behind the glove box). This was to make the ALDL/diagnostic connector fully functional as it would be on a turbo Regal. There were some wires moved around on the C100 block (where engine harness plugs into the fuse box).
I should noted that there were no other mods needed to the Monte body harness. The fuse box is all Monte. All the stock gauges, a/c, etc works as GM meant for it. Make sure you swap over your sender for the oil pressure gauge if you have one and make sure you keep the tach filter (looks like a condensor for points) on the firewall. That has to be hooked into the tach output on the Buick ignition module.
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
You guys are great this is awsome info now if i can find time to use it and get the car running. right now in process of getting rid of what's left of the gn,clean up little messes and work kids bla bla bla.I'll be asking more questions soon.
sawmillman
Make logs into lumber
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
the orange wire is a constant live wire to the ecm?
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
yes
Interesting.
I personally would buy a running (or a cheap non-running) donor vehicle. (I got one here I paid FAR LESS than $3K, wasnt running ...) but I know that is not representative of the entire country... after all, I live on a rock in the middle of the ocean. The market is finite here and I know the customer base.
IIRC there were a couple of wires other than the ALDL that need to be mated to the monte Harness. FP, crank, park/neutral and a couple of others (If I recall correctly)
TR's Fuel lines as already discussed run rown the drivers side, where the SBC powered cars run down the opposite side.
No one here has yet mentioned that to install the OE lines you must lift the body slightly off the frame. This is not hard, but not easy either... key is making sure all the body bolts come off without spinning the captive nuts in the frame. (Great time to install the poly bushings and the missing bolts as well)
Keep in mind as long as you have somewhere you can spend the time to work on the car, then fine... but a project car and a donor take up a LOT of space and if youre in a planned community, they may have something to say about your "lifestyle".
Bottom line: Geographic region and timing can make all the difference in the world as far as pricing. Sometimes youre lucky, sometimes your not.
I personally would buy a running (or a cheap non-running) donor vehicle. (I got one here I paid FAR LESS than $3K, wasnt running ...) but I know that is not representative of the entire country... after all, I live on a rock in the middle of the ocean. The market is finite here and I know the customer base.
IIRC there were a couple of wires other than the ALDL that need to be mated to the monte Harness. FP, crank, park/neutral and a couple of others (If I recall correctly)
TR's Fuel lines as already discussed run rown the drivers side, where the SBC powered cars run down the opposite side.
No one here has yet mentioned that to install the OE lines you must lift the body slightly off the frame. This is not hard, but not easy either... key is making sure all the body bolts come off without spinning the captive nuts in the frame. (Great time to install the poly bushings and the missing bolts as well)
Keep in mind as long as you have somewhere you can spend the time to work on the car, then fine... but a project car and a donor take up a LOT of space and if youre in a planned community, they may have something to say about your "lifestyle".
Bottom line: Geographic region and timing can make all the difference in the world as far as pricing. Sometimes youre lucky, sometimes your not.
