87 GN, 61k miles, FS/FT, South MS


New Member
I’ve owned this car for a few years and only put about 350 miles on it. Just time to move on to something different.

The good:
61k original mile hardtop, Concert Sound II car.

Body: 9.5/10
Paint: 9.5/10
Interior: 9.9/10

Exterior needs nothing, interior is factory perfect and needs nothing. Pillar gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temp) are installed in a color-matched pillar and all work fine. Aftermarket radio installed, but I still have the factory one. Seats are perfect, ashtray still works. Original wheels are excellent. Car has been garage kept and never driven in the rain.

Motor: stock motor with (I believe) a TE-44 turbo (I have the factory turbo, also), 42.5# injectors, and a K&N filter. Everything else is as it came from GM. Car runs like a champ and fires over like new first time, every time.

Turbo Tweak chip, Scanmaster II mounted in the usual spot.

Has turned-down 3” straightpipe coming from the factory downpipe.

The Powermaster unit or the accumulator needs to be replaced- it went out when I was driving today- brake light came on- and I limped it back home. Karma’s way of telling me it’s time to sell. Heater core is bypassed (I live in MS and have no use for heat).

Looking to get $23000 obo. Also willing to trade for anything interesting- even up, or with cash coming my way.

I can take any pictures of anything you want, or even a YouTube walk around video of it running if anyone is interested.

Msg me here or text 228-355-0861.



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The brake system problem has been solved. 30a fuse under the dash for the PM was blown. Disconnected the two connectors from the pump and cleaned a little corrosion out. Reattached the connectors, swapped the fuse, pumped down the system and changed the brake fluid. Motor runs for about six seconds and shuts off.

Brake light does not come on, and pedal feel is back to normal.
Update: swapping out the Powermaster unit and converting to a vacuum set-up. All Powermaster components will be included in sale if you want to swap it back.
If you keep blowing that fuse the electric motor is running to long. Same happen to the car I use to have... when the electric motor starts to go bad runs long an slow/weak output an puts to much of a draw on the 80’s electrical system an blows the fuse. Would 19k buy the car ?
Vacuum brakes work... power master works better when there right. I ran a vacuum set up me an another buddy on here put on. We ran wildwood master cant remember which bore an wildwood proportioning valve, aluminum drums from advanced auto a1 Cardone (yes you can get drums from advanced auto) buy 2 sets of rear shoes use the 2 bigger ones an I shit you not the car held around 20psi of boost on the pedal. I am guessing $19,000 don’t by the car then?
Vacuum brake conversion is done. More pics, also.


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About to finish up a resto on a 68 GTO, Oregon car never rusted, 400, auto, burgundy, white v.top and interior (matches the PHS docs), also got a 2000 Corvette with 8k orig miles, Nassau Blue, Auto. Even on the C5, but would need $$$ to come back to me on the GTO.


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About to finish up a resto on a 68 GTO, Oregon car never rusted, 400, auto, burgundy, white v.top and interior (matches the PHS docs), also got a 2000 Corvette with 8k orig miles, Nassau Blue, Auto. Even on the C5, but would need $$$ to come back to me on the GTO.

Thank you for the offer, but I’m not interested in coming out of pocket for anything.
If you are interested in a pro built no expense spared 100% turn key, 100% no issue 100% never raced, down etc..RCC turbo busa, pm me , it’s a s clean as a bike anybody will find , is in the shop as I write this to change all fluids , etc.. to get it ready for sale, I haven’t even posted it yet as I have been struggling to put it up for sale because I know I’m going to lose my ass , but the thing just sits there and I am looking to buy a nice GN That I know I will mod and waste more money.
The GN is the only car I have wanted but for some reason never owned.
I’m selling it because after all the time and money a spent, when it was finally done, I bought another Viper, then on 12/16/17 daughter was born and the rest is history LOL! I can’t tell you how many car shows I’ve missed because you can’t put a car seat in a Viper , I need something with a backseat that is bad ass, IMO the GN is one of the most iconic acts ever so only a GN will do.
I have all the receipts , pictures of the build and even pictures of most of the parts when in the box (I am OCD) was only driven to a few shows as I had a bike built that was MUCH to fast for my capabilities I’ve only seen half throttle for about 6 seconds on the highway on the 400 rwhp tune and I seen all I ever needed to see or feel.

I kept it stock bore and cams , as advised from Richard at RCC turbos but that is it, As far as parts virtually everything has been replaced with the best of the best, I’m going to list the major things, because it would take all day to lost everything
It’s a fresh build with no more than 300 miles on everything , as I’ve barely ridden it (only 8k on the odometer , but everything mechanical is new.

The bike has 3 tunes set in the AMS 1000(they are all tuned to perfection the bike runs smoother and just as cool as a stock bike,
Turbo kit done by one of the best shops in the US for turbo bikes powerhouse turbos in New York
The 3 tunes and boost used below all via AMS 1000 , so it is literally a touch of the button, I’m looking at the charts

1. 237.82 rwhp 132.99 tq , this is just on 6lb spring.(6lbs of boost) pump gas 93
2. 378.11 rwhp 221.15 tq , 18lbs of boost or adjust to 20lbs of boost for 400 rwhp both are safe pump 93 octane
3. 438.68 rwhp 256.29 tq in 24lbs of booston C16 race gas , the motor is built for 600 hp, the kit will make well over 500 rwhp but I had them stop there, as I knew I would never have big enough balls to use that much power, nor race it down a 1/4 track, and with all the money I spent (this was a 40k build) I didn’t want to break anything .

Motor assembled by one of the best shops in IL ..Win racing

Motor. Block replated O ringed, heads ported,Carrillo H-beams, wossner Turbo pistons , Carpenter racing springs,arp hardware , high volume oil pressure, low profile pan(bike is lowered the right way, as I had the forks done internally much more I didn’t list, no expense was spared anywhere(over 7k in receipts for motor alone

Duel spall fans with an override switch, I’ve rode this bike in to car shows in 90 degree heat and it never got any warmer than stock, it amazed me.

Trans race cut, with hardened output shaft, heavy duty clutch, upper and lower shift shafts(more that I’m probably forgetting something

RCC ultra turbo kit (best kit money can buy) this kit alone is 11k

RC component alien wheels, macintosh pro aluminum swingarm , with all Macintosh lowering hardware, custom made steel Axle by terry mcintosh for very high hp and TQ this bike makes.

Tuned by powerhouse performance NY, I know nothing about tuning but they used all of the below to tune it, but it’s the smoothest bike I’ve ever rode,
Microtech 4 bar with full harness
AMS 1000 boost controller , hooked up to a 12 oz co2 which hides out of site under the tail
Steel sprocket , The highest strength best chain on the market(forgot the brand) and a ton more
Bike has auto meter air fuel, boost and fuel pressure in a custom 3 tiny pod holder right underneath the dash
Also has a mini raptor shift light hidden under windscreen
I have tons of build pictures, regular etc... and can make videos at request ,

I though I would throw this out there, I also needed to write up a for sale add anyway, but am not looking forward to all the lowballing on something I knew that I was going to lose my butt on, but that is the price of modding.


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