You can type here any text you want

87 GN EFR Build

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Intercooler core and some other goodies came in today. Tomorrow is cleaning and more cleaning. Gonna try to get the cam and heads on by the end of the day. One step closer!
IMG_0238.JPG
IMG_0239.JPG
 
Pics of the exhaust housing. As you can see it has a V-band flange for both the downpipe and the turbine inlet.
10402697_859146320791597_8943721532960650311_n.jpg
10701988_859146057458290_5812864480321360033_n.jpg
10402697_859146320791597_8943721532960650311_n.jpg
10701988_859146057458290_5812864480321360033_n.jpg
 
Subscribed! I use a off the shelf s366 88 ar turbo on my ford 4.3l. What turbo you taking off the car?
 
The last turbo I drove the car with was a TE44, however, I had a Billet GT37/StageV on it in the pics. I had that turbo from another project so I was going to use it until the EFR after I sold the 44 but the EFR came a little sooner than I had planned.
 
The project is coming along slowly but surely. The engine/underside of the car is waay greasier than I expected so I'm taking my time to clean/paint most things. I'd really like to do a frame-off resto but it's just not feasible right now. Day by day it will become more and more like I want it, but that's part of the fun for me anyway. I've got some additional photos. I ordered an ALRADCO aluminum radiator and I got some valve covers and an EGR blockoff from the Hartline's. I will shortly begin the wiring and figuring on how I am going to get all 1 million sensors to work together like I want them to. I'm pretty sure plenty of people have had more sensors than I but it's a matter of getting the data to read where I want it to. It's certainly not rocket science LOL..
IMG_0238.JPG
IMG_0246.JPG
IMG_0247.JPG
IMG_0248.JPG
IMG_0249.JPG
 
Looking at purchasing transducers to measure real-time cylinder pressures. I don't know that it will tell me anything further than the load bearing dyno but it's worth a shot. I'm thinking correlating the data with the EBP/manifold pressure could potentially open up some camshaft selection data. As you guys can tell, most of the project is about understanding exactly what changes do what and not necessarily about the end result of horsepower. Most things can simply be seen as an increase/decrease in hp on the dyno but I want to go further than that to the root of what happens. I guess this is what a nerd does when he's retired and has nothing better to do LOL..

Also, thinking about drag week 2015. Anyone ever done it in a Buick? I don't want to put a cage in the car so I may either by a regal chassis and put all the goodies in that or just go and have fun/not worry about being competitive. Not sure I can do that whole not competitive thing though LOL. It still sounds like fun and a great opportunity to meet like minded folks.

http://www.optrand.com/fliers/psiplug_ 060201.pdf
 
Anybody have a gear vendors overdrive? Looking at doing a TH400/Gear vendor combo. If anyone has any experience with it, I'd love to hear your feedback.
 
Anybody have a gear vendors overdrive? Looking at doing a TH400/Gear vendor combo. If anyone has any experience with it, I'd love to hear your feedback.

I have one on my 1970 Dodge Challenger. Works flawlessly and shifts seamless like a 4 speed automatic.

Although I like it a lot, If I were to do it again I would have to look harder at a TH200R4 conversion with the availability of the bell housing adapters. So with that being said, why not just stick with a well built 200R4?
AG.
 
I would use the 200 but it is going to cost about $3800 for the one I want. I can get a really strong 400 for ~$1500 with the Gear Vendors being ~2800 so for $4300 I'll essentially have a 6 speed. A 6 speed from TCI is ~$6600. If the 400 ever breaks, it's cheaper to get replacement parts. I need to look at the gear ratio difference again to make up my mind but that's the way I'm leaning right now.
 
I would use the 200 but it is going to cost about $3800 for the one I want. I can get a really strong 400 for ~$1500 with the Gear Vendors being ~2800 so for $4300 I'll essentially have a 6 speed. A 6 speed from TCI is ~$6600. If the 400 ever breaks, it's cheaper to get replacement parts. I need to look at the gear ratio difference again to make up my mind but that's the way I'm leaning right now.

Gear splitting the GV overdrive will not be an automatic function so I really wouldn't call it a true 6 speed auto. It will be stronger but heavier than a 200R4. I would research more 4L80 options and maybe then a GV on that if you want more gears.
AG.
 
Gear splitting the GV overdrive will not be an automatic function so I really wouldn't call it a true 6 speed auto. It will be stronger but heavier than a 200R4. I would research more 4L80 options and maybe then a GV on that if you want more gears.
AG.

What advantages would the l80 give me? Its more expensive, heavier than a 400, and wouldnt give me the gear split unless i added the GV. I think the l80 has to have an adapter to fit the buick bolt pattern as well. Ive looked into doing just the trans alone but by the time you build it, put the brake in it, etc. its still $4000 plus whatever controller i decide to use.

If the GV is electronically operated (looks like it is but not 100% certain) i can manipulate it with a controller Ive already built to make everything automatic which actually would be an advantage to the 4l80 because i can mod the existing controller and run everything off it. With the 400, ill have to mesh the mechanical and electronic which may be a pita
 
Yes the 4L80 is heavier but I have not seen anyone break one behind a Buick yet. The advantage to it is ability to have one trans for street and strip use. You can set shift point, line pressure and lock up with it ( not that you want to lock it up at the strip) . You would need a trans controller to interface with the XFI you have but that will control it.

I do think that you will spend the same money on a 200, 400 or a 4L80. The GV unit as an additional $2000 no matter which trans you put it on. Out of the 3, the 4L80 will work the best and survive. I personally would love to try out a 6L80 on a Buick but I dont know if it will hold up to the power. The 4L80 will.
 
What advantages would the l80 give me? Its more expensive, heavier than a 400, and wouldnt give me the gear split unless i added the GV. I think the l80 has to have an adapter to fit the buick bolt pattern as well. Ive looked into doing just the trans alone but by the time you build it, put the brake in it, etc. its still $4000 plus whatever controller i decide to use.

If the GV is electronically operated (looks like it is but not 100% certain) i can manipulate it with a controller Ive already built to make everything automatic which actually would be an advantage to the 4l80 because i can mod the existing controller and run everything off it. With the 400, ill have to mesh the mechanical and electronic which may be a pita

The gear vendors will shift electronically/automatically through there own control box. It does work really well and gives you the feel that its one big 4 speed but it won't split shift automatically for you as far as I know. You can have manual control but just makes operating it clumsy for split shifting IMO. I guess I just fail to see where gear splitting is really a decision breaker or must have.
With this type of build your documenting I would think you could be crafty enough to build your own trans with a little research. I'm sure you can save a few $$$ and build a 4l80. I think I saw a post where Dusty has a non-lockup converter option also and could simplify the build.
AG.
 
I just looked at 4L80s again, they've gotten much much cheaper since I last priced them which makes it a reasonable option. My main issue is having a strong trans that is rebuildable for a reasonable price. I don't want to do without overdrive because this will predominately be a street car. I'd like to eventually have a six speed just because I think it's cool and for really no other reason than that. It will probably keep the motor in a happy spot over a broader range of use but it it does fine, if it doesn't so be it. As I was saying earlier, I've built a controller that should automate any of the trans/GV setups that I do.

I've got some additional pics. My Turbosmart parts finally came in! The engine is also starting to look like an engine again. We are supposed to mount the turbo to the header this weekend and potentially add the wastegate provisions. I've had to order different pushrods so they should be here next week. Looking at some upper plenum options to add a 3" TB so my pipe doesn't change diameter from the intercooler. Upgrading the software in my dyno, adding some sensor inputs, and have fresh widebands for when the car starts up again. I can't wait to drive it again, especially with all the new goodies and data aquisition. Gonna be lots of fun!
IMG_0252.JPG
IMG_0253.JPG
IMG_0254.JPG
IMG_0255.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0254.JPG
    IMG_0254.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 188
More pics..
IMG_0262.JPG
IMG_0263.JPG
IMG_0264.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0262.JPG
    IMG_0262.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 143
  • IMG_0263.JPG
    IMG_0263.JPG
    902.1 KB · Views: 135
  • IMG_0265.JPG
    IMG_0265.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 145
  • IMG_0266.JPG
    IMG_0266.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 137
That exhaust housing is way different than anything I've seen. Very interesting set up.

What is exhaust bung for on the passenger side header? EGT? IMG 263.
 
The bung is where the factory O2 sensor goes. We used a set of Kenne Bell headers for the modification and it already had that in there. Eventually we have a header design we are going to implement but didn't have the time to do it this go around. It will have an EGT and EBP sensor really close to that location before it goes on the car though.

The exhaust housing is brand new from BW. I wanted a V-Band all the way around to make turbo changes easy and because it looks really cool.
 
Back
Top