I will have to look, I don't think it has been...I wasn't really thinking about that. I guess I can just take the MSD module out of the middle and return the wires back to the way they were.
I'm not a huge fan of the MSD interface....I know for a fact the stock stuff will support a ton of power, so cutting it out for the moment should just test the theory of less is better...the more wiring and connectors, the more possible issues. I have wired tons of stuff from race cars to dyno cells...and its always better to simplify.
Ok folks...I installed the cam sensor and got the same results...now for the good news.
I finally figured out after talking to several very helpful individuals that my injectors were what was giving me trouble and sure enough with a simple bench test I realized that they are gummed up and one of them will not work at all!
I am wondering if there is anyone in the Houston area that may have a set of low impedance 55# injectors? the set I have are Seimens 3102. I would really like to get a set locally if I can trust them but I cant find them around Houston or anywhere within 2-3 hours then I will most likely order a new chip and just go to a high impedance injector. Let me know if anyone has a lead on a good set.
Thanks for all of your help, I am amazed by the complete support from this community!!!
Interesting that a set of injectors would not let your car start. I've never heard of this before - even the crappy stock ones that go bad and idle bad would still let the car run. Best to just get a set of 60's or 80s.
Well, I have 40 PSI at the rail and injecor pulse (with a noid light) and nothing more than a pop from time to time. Then pour a slight amount of fuel into the intake and it purs like a kitty for about three seconds. I took them off and only 4 actuated and 2 were completely dead.
Now your making me worry that this may not be the problem...I have tried to not "throw parts" at this problem but am I correct in my thoughts here? If I have 40 PSI at the fuel rail and not getting it to run but then forcing it to run by shooting fuel into the intake would you think it is the injectors? Could there be something else to look at? Please Don't misread my comments here, I am not being argumentative, just trying to learn more about these cars and hoping to gain knowledge from the experts here that know these babies like the back of their hands! Thanks!!
Edit: it may be prudent to mention again that this car sat for 8 years with fuel in it and fuel in the rail. The injectors also had old fuel in them.
They have now...I thought they were cleared before but I am positive now. The tank was empty but I added 6 gallons of gas to the tank and used the old "jump the pump" method to empty it back out (now I just have to figure out what to do with it). I am positive the lines are cleared and the tank has been flushed with fresh gas and emptied again. I will add fresh treated Premium fuel to it again and start over. I have new injectors coming tomorrow (at least being mailed tomorrow), as I have them in my hands I will install them and test the theory.
Well, I appreciate everyone helping me with this whole endeavor and I can happily report that the injectors were definitely the issue. It started up immediately and ran like a top!!!
Unfortunately it didn't run for long, after about three minutes steam shot out of the tail pipe and I found water on top of number 3 and 5. I pulled the motor and immediately pulled the heads to find that the corrosion from sitting with water in them for 8 years had cooked the heads. I ordered a new set thinking that would solve my problem and I have now found out that I have soft spots on the cylinders and I am afraid the block is toast because there is hard block around the cylinders so it can't be re-sleeved. My first GN ownership is not going to plan and by the time I am done with this one I could have easily paid for one hell of a car from someone selling a comete car. I am totally gutted with the situation now and need to go lick my wounds...
I'm not understanding the term soft spots. Can you elaborate?
Where is the water coming from? Bad head gasket? This soft area in the cylinder?
I'm thinking a different block. Put your pieces in and keep moving forward. I havent lived down there for almost a decade, but there used to be plenty of wrecking yards to hit and they had lots of stuff to pick. If you can't found what you need in town or out off mount Houston area, head out east past Dayton there used to be a couple yards by the river on the way into the next town that had a lot of older stuff. Or out by port aurther there was a good yard with older stuff.
I haven't updated the situation in a while because I have been busy with work but...
The soft spot I thought I had was just corrosion in the water course. I got all of that cleaned out and tore the entire motor down so I would know what I had. Luckily I listened to Scott and went all the way with it because the rod bearings and mains are shot...this car has only run for about 30 minutes total and it seems the builder had NO idea what he was doing. I know I had good oil pressure, it seems to me the builder used the wrong bearings. I have all of the receipts and the builder (in Austin) charged the previous owner $8k to put this thing together! He fired it up 8 years ago and had a leak in the return line they had added in the back of the block so they shut it down and he never touched it again. Unfortunately there is NO way to go back to the builder at this point so it is what it is!
I sonic tested the block and it is ok, I am starting over and going to rebuild everything myself so I know what I have.
