yeah, I used the compression stroke...I just had my son hold down the starter while I rotated it around trying to find the sweet spot and it gets to the point that it wants to start so bad but just backfires!
I also found that I had a bad cap as well as a bad Coil Pack last night!!! I am so close but not getting there!
I am at a loss...40 PSI fuel pressure and have done the cam sensor "procedure" 3 times and I feel pretty confident it is right...it wants to start so badly but just backfires. I loosened the cap again and ran around about 20 degrees both ways and it won't start!
I wish I could say that worked but it didn't...I am just sick about it too. I thought I was a better mechanic than this. It has to be something simple now but it is kicking my butt.
Yea it sucks, but you are almost there!
Are you sure the plug wires are on the right cylinders, and that the electrical wires under the coil pack are correct?
Is it backfiring through the intake or exhaust?
Also, follow Eticket advise.
I checked the Crank sensor but let me ask this question...
Doesn't the car get the tach signal from the crank? I checked my tach with an aftermarket tach plugged in at the green tach pick up by the fuel pump jumper and I am getting a tach signal. Strangely though the factory LED tach has three bars lot up even when it is not running and the boost gauge has three lit up as well when the key is turned on but not cranking. This is perplexing???
Well...first, you can't believe the factory tach and boost gauge....hell those didn't work very well when they were brand new. Backfiring through the intake or the exhaust? Sounds like timing...so you are on the right track. What do you know about that engine...internally?
I know it ran for about 15-20 minutes prior to taking it out of the other car and putting it into this one. Brand new motor and I swapped the ECM in this car for the one that has already run this motor. Another way to say it is that it is trying to run with the same ECM that it ran with in the other car.
In essence....I missed the part earlier about it running in the other car. You should be able to get the cam sensor close enough for it to start without the setting tool. You've covered the wires being out of order....I'm sure in swapping the module you got the wires between it and the coil pack on in the right order. Hmmmm
Let me know what sort of pictures you want to see and I will gladly post them. I laid in bed last night, tossed and turned forever with this on my mind and I am spent. I know it has to be something simple at this point. I ordered a new cam sensor from Caspers since the one I have is cracked. I don't have the O2 sensor hooked up right now because it is a 3 wire hot sensor and this harness is not set up for it so I ordered pigtail from Caspers as well.
This car was set up with a "Translator Plus" "Horsepower in a box" connected to the MAF sensor and I have it wired in now as well with no help. I don't think this is the problem because I get the same result with it plugged in as I do with it out.
I am also getting 2 codes on my Scanmaster, 15 and 23???
I will post those pictures this evening when I get home.
Do you think that I am having this problem because my MAFT and O2 sensors are not hooked up right now? I havent connected the piping and sensors to my front mount intercooler yet because I was trying to make sure that everything ran right (or at least started and idled) before doing all of the hard line stuff. if that may be causing my issue then I will get it done but I didnt think that would cause this problem?
I certianly appreciate that, I think that I have it set right...or at least I it acted the exact way it is supposed to when I went through the proceudre. If I find that I need it I may get with you on that. I ordered the Capers cap last night because the cap I am using has a small crack on the side. I wil know for sure if I have it set correctly once that comes.