A/C, no A/C, A/C, no A/C

[Matt Weiser]

Well, I dunno which of us has our terminology wrong, but I'm talking about the switch that attaches to the big aluminum cylinder that mounts near the heater box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. It's a round 2-pin switch that screws into the cylinder. Some call this cylinder the "receiver/dryer" but it may also be known as the "accumulator." Not sure. But anyway, yes, it's on the pass. side and the switch faces the fenderwell. Pull the connector, jump it with a wire, and see what happens!

 

[digorok]

CC Switch

That's the low pressure or cycling clutch switch. It disconects when the pressure gets to low. The switch can just be unscrewed as there is a schrader valve to keep the gas in. Be sure you install a new O-ring.
These can be adjusted so that they stay conected to a lower pressure making the A/C colder. You need a gauge set to set it correctly.
You can check if the switch is working by first checking to see if you are getting 12v to the switch. If you are you can try and jump it with a jumper wire with a fuse in line. You should have a gauge set connected so you can watch the pressures.

 

[turboaddict2]

Found the problem!

But don't know how do fix it. Tried everything above. The problem is the clutch is not engaging. Everytime I tapped it it would spin so it looks like I gotta reset the clutch gap. How do I do that?

 

[digorok]

Clutch adjustment

You have to hold the clutch plate and tighten the nut in the center of the plate. 9/16 thin wall socket. The gap should be between .020 to .040. Don't tighten it too much, you have to have some gap so it can dis-engage. To widen the gap you may need a special tool, so go slow.

 

[turboaddict2]

should I use a 6 point or 12 point 9/16 socket. Guess I'll be using one of those flat feeler gauges?. Where would I measure the gap after tightening? Between compressor and clutch?

 

[digorok]

Tools

They make a special socket to fit, but any thin wall socket that will fit will work.
Your mesuring the gap between the clutch plate and the clutch. Easiest way is to use two feeler gauges one each on opposite sides of the clutch. Your going to have to hold the clutch plate to keep it from turning. They make a special tool for that too, but I just use a really big pliers.

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by turboaddict2
Recently I converted to R134a. Sometimes the A/C is nice and cold other times, its not regardless of the weather. Today I turned it on and it was nice and cold. Drove around for 20 minutes and still cold. Then I got into traffic and decided to turn off the A/C, since my car goes up to 200 in hot weather. As the traffic cleared up I turned the A/C back on and then @#it, no cold air. I even kept on turning the A/C off and on and still no cold air. Whats causing it not to blow cold air? I'm sure the pressure switch is still good.

What are the pressures when it works vs when it doesnt work?

You ever have erroneous TPS high codes?

 

[turboaddict2]

Don't think I have erronous high TPS codes. I don't know what the pressure is when its on and when its off. Don't I need a guage to check the pressure? Eric Schertz checked my a/c when I went to go pick up my car and he said he put too much pressure so he lowered it. He also said there could be something wrong with the compressor because he heard a tapping or ticking noise when the car was running at 1000 RPM.

 

[digorok]

Fan

You should check the pressures. You may have a fan problem. Do you have the stock fan???? If so it may not be pulling enough air through the condensor when it's hot.
You could also be having an electrical problem. You'll have to check to see if the compressor is coming on. If not you'll have to start checking the wires, relays, switches, clutch.
Intermitant problems can sometimes be hard to track down, but most times it turns out to be a bad connection.