? about oil
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Turbo Indian
worlds quickest 6cyl bird
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if it's a daily driver I would not hesitate to swich, but if it's a low mile Buick I would continue to use mobil 1.Quiky One said:
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
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I would keep in on M1.
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
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Yep, mobile one synthetic. absolutely. the only oil that beat it out, was amsoil, and it BARELY edged it out. For all intents and purposes, theyre neck and neck. Id never run anything else in my cars.
RobsIron
Silent but Violent
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Stick with the M1. 
2QUICK2B6
Black Car Fever
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I had a cold start knock problem with M1 on all my lc2 cars . I switched to Royal purple and it doesnt matter how long i let it sit i dont hear a cold start knock .
RobsIron
Silent but Violent
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Stage, I'm assuming your question is comparing Syns and not Dino.
I used Castrol SynTec in my first GN back in '92 til 2000 and never had a problem.
I don't think there is much difference between the Synthetics...I like Mobile 1 because the factory(GM) uses it.
I used Castrol SynTec in my first GN back in '92 til 2000 and never had a problem.
I don't think there is much difference between the Synthetics...I like Mobile 1 because the factory(GM) uses it.
Turbo6Smackdown
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heres the differences. this isnt all the classes they compete in, but just some. first off, there is a difference between synthetics. for example, the two we carry, mobile one and quaker state. quaker state is one of the poorer designed synthetics... it falls short on alot of the things syns are supposed to be good at. oils are rated on break down intervals, shear point/times, flowing ability at cold start, friction reduction/coefficients, umm the temp it takes to get em to 'coke up' or turn to ash, flash points, etc etc. theres a ton more. mobile one and amsoil (royal purple and redline are really good too, but i havent seen the tests comparing them to the others yet) are outstanding in all of those aspects and more. they last TONS longer than the other oils, they reduce friction better, they run cleaner, cold start better, and have a higher 'coking point' than the other. oil is NOT all created equal. syns are WAYY better than natural, or conventional oils. the old addage of 'my stuff will leak if i switch to syn oil' is crap. heres two reasons why
first off, the OLD gaskets, used to swell when petroleum products would constantly brush across them. then, when switched to syns, they would shrink, and allow oil/fluid to pass by them. that stopped in the mid/late 90's. that dont happen anymore. its old lore. secondly, since conventional oils do coke up MUCH quicker, they leave deposits behind. WAY more than syn oils. and MANY MANY people use inferior filters, and/or go over on their oil changes, so after 90,000 miles have built up, you have 2 things goin on. the seals and gaskets on your car typically wear out, as they all do, but at the same time, all the coked oil, and hard, and soft sludge built up enough to help prevent any leaks. getting an engine flush, or switching to a syn oil (which sometimes have a detergent in em) then causes all sorts of leaks to happen now. NO, its not the oils fault, its yours for not doing the regularly scheduled maintenance on your car, which is preventing sludge buildup by doing your engine flush once a year, and by not changing out your gaskets every 50,000 miles or so. no, you dont wait till theyre leaking to do it, you change em BEFORE you soil your driveway with oil guys! so if youve done everything right, changing between conv. and synth oil should have no adverse affects. it only SHOWS the ALREADY EXISTING deficiencies you MAY have. its not technically the OILS fault. ok? ok.
As for our buicks, most of em, id say 90% of em are in perfect condition, as most of us are fanatics, and i would say oil gaskets, trans gaskets, seals etc etc are the last thing that would be wrong with our cars. those are easy fixes to our sort, so im assuming most of our cars are genuinely leak free under any circumstance. If your car is doing what its SUPPOSED to be doing, theres no reason why you couldnt switch between a synth and a conventional oil every oil change. our gaskets are of a newer design, and theyre not rustbuckets that most other peoples daily drivers are. The other side of the puzzle is oil filters. to run a quality oil, but with a crap filter is just plain stupid. the quality of oil filters vary EXTENSIVELY. between the quality/fit of their sealer gaskets, to prevent leaks, the strength/heat treat of their threaded baseplate, to resist blowoff from an accidental overpressurization conditon, to resist rust, to filter properly without restriction, and to have a good designed 'anti drainback valve' to resist draining if your filter sits upsidedown or flat, making each and every startup, a dry one. ive installed many of our own locally distributed oil filters, and have seen 3 myself, blow off and/or leak. Never ONCE, have i seen a failure with a mobile one oil filter. theyre ROCK solid, and are just downright great filters. to use anything less than a wix, mobile 1, amsoil, or purolator oil filter is just asking for trouble. Remember, if youre starting with a brand new fresh engine, things are different than if you got the car with already 95,000 miles on it. if your car has 10 miles on it, and you want to use a crap oil, with a crap fram filter on it. youre ok, just as long as you change your oil RELIGIOUSLY every 3000 miles, and NEVER EVER allow any sludge to build up in the engine. things that sludge up your engine quicker, are: going over on your oil changes constantly, or overheating your engine a few times, on the same oil. Or having a partial restriction in your oil flow, thus allowing only half of whats supposed to flow, making that amount of oil take up the heat of what the 5 full qts are supposed to take. when you put your oil thru conditions it wasnt made to peform in, its going to sludge up on you a little quicker. if you want to save 10 bucks per oil change, by using inferior oils/filters, just make sure youre RELIGIOUS about your intervals, and never allow sludge to build up. in fact, industry standard for flushes is once every 12-15,000 miles, to help prevent sludge buildup.
but if youre running a good quality synth, with a good filter, you can SOMEtimes go over a couple hundred miles, and still be protected.
synth oil doesnt sludge up anywhere NEAR as quick as dino stuff does. sorry for the book, but i just want to see these buicks last as long as humanly possible.
first off, the OLD gaskets, used to swell when petroleum products would constantly brush across them. then, when switched to syns, they would shrink, and allow oil/fluid to pass by them. that stopped in the mid/late 90's. that dont happen anymore. its old lore. secondly, since conventional oils do coke up MUCH quicker, they leave deposits behind. WAY more than syn oils. and MANY MANY people use inferior filters, and/or go over on their oil changes, so after 90,000 miles have built up, you have 2 things goin on. the seals and gaskets on your car typically wear out, as they all do, but at the same time, all the coked oil, and hard, and soft sludge built up enough to help prevent any leaks. getting an engine flush, or switching to a syn oil (which sometimes have a detergent in em) then causes all sorts of leaks to happen now. NO, its not the oils fault, its yours for not doing the regularly scheduled maintenance on your car, which is preventing sludge buildup by doing your engine flush once a year, and by not changing out your gaskets every 50,000 miles or so. no, you dont wait till theyre leaking to do it, you change em BEFORE you soil your driveway with oil guys! so if youve done everything right, changing between conv. and synth oil should have no adverse affects. it only SHOWS the ALREADY EXISTING deficiencies you MAY have. its not technically the OILS fault. ok? ok.
As for our buicks, most of em, id say 90% of em are in perfect condition, as most of us are fanatics, and i would say oil gaskets, trans gaskets, seals etc etc are the last thing that would be wrong with our cars. those are easy fixes to our sort, so im assuming most of our cars are genuinely leak free under any circumstance. If your car is doing what its SUPPOSED to be doing, theres no reason why you couldnt switch between a synth and a conventional oil every oil change. our gaskets are of a newer design, and theyre not rustbuckets that most other peoples daily drivers are. The other side of the puzzle is oil filters. to run a quality oil, but with a crap filter is just plain stupid. the quality of oil filters vary EXTENSIVELY. between the quality/fit of their sealer gaskets, to prevent leaks, the strength/heat treat of their threaded baseplate, to resist blowoff from an accidental overpressurization conditon, to resist rust, to filter properly without restriction, and to have a good designed 'anti drainback valve' to resist draining if your filter sits upsidedown or flat, making each and every startup, a dry one. ive installed many of our own locally distributed oil filters, and have seen 3 myself, blow off and/or leak. Never ONCE, have i seen a failure with a mobile one oil filter. theyre ROCK solid, and are just downright great filters. to use anything less than a wix, mobile 1, amsoil, or purolator oil filter is just asking for trouble. Remember, if youre starting with a brand new fresh engine, things are different than if you got the car with already 95,000 miles on it. if your car has 10 miles on it, and you want to use a crap oil, with a crap fram filter on it. youre ok, just as long as you change your oil RELIGIOUSLY every 3000 miles, and NEVER EVER allow any sludge to build up in the engine. things that sludge up your engine quicker, are: going over on your oil changes constantly, or overheating your engine a few times, on the same oil. Or having a partial restriction in your oil flow, thus allowing only half of whats supposed to flow, making that amount of oil take up the heat of what the 5 full qts are supposed to take. when you put your oil thru conditions it wasnt made to peform in, its going to sludge up on you a little quicker. if you want to save 10 bucks per oil change, by using inferior oils/filters, just make sure youre RELIGIOUS about your intervals, and never allow sludge to build up. in fact, industry standard for flushes is once every 12-15,000 miles, to help prevent sludge buildup.
but if youre running a good quality synth, with a good filter, you can SOMEtimes go over a couple hundred miles, and still be protected.
synth oil doesnt sludge up anywhere NEAR as quick as dino stuff does. sorry for the book, but i just want to see these buicks last as long as humanly possible.
RobsIron
Silent but Violent
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Most have known that Quaker and Pennzoil are not the best oil. Full of waxes and parrafins. I assumed that once they came out with a Syn it would be comparable to existing Syns on the market.
The main advantage that Synthetics have over Dino...other than better flow ability on dry starts is that all of the molecules are of equal size(large). Dino oil has inconsistant sized molecules and under heat the small ones burn off and viscosity breaks down.
Changing your oil depends on driving habits and environment. If you can't keep your oil clean because you're driving down dirt roads everyday or do a lot of hot city driving or high rpm racing then the 3000 mile mark or less is a safe rule for Dino. 5000-7500 for Syn. If the car sits for long periods you should change more often due to condensation regardless of mileage.
I'm a freak and change mine way to often.
The main advantage that Synthetics have over Dino...other than better flow ability on dry starts is that all of the molecules are of equal size(large). Dino oil has inconsistant sized molecules and under heat the small ones burn off and viscosity breaks down.
Changing your oil depends on driving habits and environment. If you can't keep your oil clean because you're driving down dirt roads everyday or do a lot of hot city driving or high rpm racing then the 3000 mile mark or less is a safe rule for Dino. 5000-7500 for Syn. If the car sits for long periods you should change more often due to condensation regardless of mileage.
I'm a freak and change mine way to often.
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
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me too.
RobsIron
Silent but Violent
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Valvoline is a very good oil.
When I ran Dino oil I always used Kendall.
I had a old drag racer tell me once that you could spill all different brands of oil on the ground and can always pick out Kendall.
It has a dark greenish grey tone to it. Big Daddy DG loves it. Wish they'd come out with a Syn.
When I ran Dino oil I always used Kendall.
I had a old drag racer tell me once that you could spill all different brands of oil on the ground and can always pick out Kendall.
It has a dark greenish grey tone to it. Big Daddy DG loves it.
Wish they'd come out with a Syn.
vicious6
Turbo Regal Obsessed
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I have always used Castrol Syntec 5/50. The widest viscosity range on the market! Never a problem, no peck at start up.
RobsIron
Silent but Violent
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5/50 means 5 weight when cold and 50 weight when hot. Good Choice.
2QUICK2B6
Black Car Fever
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what is the wix or napa gold filter # for TR's ?
