ECM SOL 10amp is good, there is no juice on that dark green wire by the relay. Connector on the back of the compressor is connected. Still no juice at the compressor so the AC Comp. clutch will not kick on. Where is this other AC Fuse you are talking about? What AMP?
AC compressor will not come on....
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ECM SOL 10amp is good, there is no juice on that dark green wire by the relay. Connector on the back of the compressor is connected. Still no juice at the compressor so the AC Comp. clutch will not kick on. Where is this other AC Fuse you are talking about? What AMP?
a/c
jump the low pressure switch with 12 volts the clutch should click and engage if there is not enough freon in the system it won't come on if the clutch engages then start the car put the a/c on full blast put the can of r134a ina small bucket of water and connect it to the low pressure side the big fitting open the can and then jump the switch it should suck the freon in with no problem then you need to get manifold gages to check the pressure put three cans total in and stop dont over fill it will blow orings and seals.. good luck
jump the low pressure switch with 12 volts the clutch should click and engage if there is not enough freon in the system it won't come on if the clutch engages then start the car put the a/c on full blast put the can of r134a ina small bucket of water and connect it to the low pressure side the big fitting open the can and then jump the switch it should suck the freon in with no problem then you need to get manifold gages to check the pressure put three cans total in and stop dont over fill it will blow orings and seals.. good luck
gsgns4me
Member
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2006
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
25 Amp. A/C fuse middle top right of the box as shown in the diagram. :smile:
And you have to check for voltage at the cycling switch big connector on the accumulator first before it gets to the relay.
" Check for +12 on both sides of the low pressure switch light green and light blue wires to a good ground. "
That would be with the connector on, also ohm check the cycling switch with an OHMMETER on low ohms scale accross the cycling switch contacts with the wiring OFF the switch. It should read low ohms or a dead short when there is the proper coolant charge there.
Cycling switch and wiring is on the left side of the accumulator cannister up near the power antenna and fan motor passenger side right near where you are filling it up.
And you have to check for voltage at the cycling switch big connector on the accumulator first before it gets to the relay.
" Check for +12 on both sides of the low pressure switch light green and light blue wires to a good ground. "
That would be with the connector on, also ohm check the cycling switch with an OHMMETER on low ohms scale accross the cycling switch contacts with the wiring OFF the switch. It should read low ohms or a dead short when there is the proper coolant charge there.
Cycling switch and wiring is on the left side of the accumulator cannister up near the power antenna and fan motor passenger side right near where you are filling it up.
THere was a 5amp fuse where that 25amp should be. After installing a new 25 amp fuse I have power at the green line on the compressor connector but the clutch will not kick on still. Could it be that the compressor is bad.
I will perform the rest test with volt meter later today or wednesday.
I will perform the rest test with volt meter later today or wednesday.
Sweetwater GN
Unstoppable :)
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2010
Check for continuity from the black end of the clutch wire to ground-which it should have. If not and if power is coming down the green wire, splice the black wire between the clutch and high press switch on the back of the comp. Ground it out and if it runs, the clutch is good. Then splice the wire after the hi press switch before it runs back to the harness and ground that out. That'll tell you if the press switch is good. Make sure the clip and the groove in the plug end for the hi press switch are aligned with the port on the compressor and that the plug is all the way down the port.. ask me how I know :tongue:
I should also add that after installing this supposedly new(barely used) compressor that I bought here there is now a rattling noise coming from the front of my motor. Rattling wasn't there before I changed the compressor and a new duralast serpentine belt. I am not doing so well!!!
Sweetwater GN
Unstoppable :)
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2010
Use a long screwdriver or piece of hose as a stethoscope and listen to the compressor housing for the rattle. Usually if the compressor isn't running as in your case, it won't make a rattle. Pop the belt for a quick test and see if the sound goes away.
kingots2004
Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2007
what about the connector under the bottom side of the compressor? there are 2 plugs on mine one on top and one on the bottom close to the pully on the drivers side about 5 oclock, also why did you change compressors? if you had one lock up or something id go ahead and change out the orifice also cause if that gets clogged then you wont get flow either. easy to change before you charge it up. also pull a vac on the system
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