Just replaced the rear brakes and did the S-10 upgrade, I am just wondering if it is absolutely necessary to have them adjusted prior to re-installing the drums? If I remember correctly, last time I did my rears, they pretty much self adjusted after I pressed the brake a few times. Is this correct?? Thanks! ------Jeremy
Adjusting Brakes, necessary??
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The auto adjusters will not back off if you get them too tight. But if you have them too tight, you should not be able to get the drum on if the drum is in proper shape. If you run across the instance when you put the drum on, spin it, want to adjust it again and it won't come off....you have to decide if you want to pry the drum off or leave it as is.
Hognose is right, they should drag just a little when you get the drum on and spin it. Getting the right ammount of drag is what I don't know how to explain. It is something you have to judge.
If you don't know, the adjusters only adjust in reverse. When you back up and hit the brakes, you can sometimes hear them 'click'. They will only adjust properly if all the shoe hardware is in good condition.
IMHO, adjusting the rear shoes should be part of routine maintainence. I do it ever time I rotate the tires. Keeps the F-R balance in check.
Good luck!
Hognose is right, they should drag just a little when you get the drum on and spin it. Getting the right ammount of drag is what I don't know how to explain. It is something you have to judge.
If you don't know, the adjusters only adjust in reverse. When you back up and hit the brakes, you can sometimes hear them 'click'. They will only adjust properly if all the shoe hardware is in good condition.
IMHO, adjusting the rear shoes should be part of routine maintainence. I do it ever time I rotate the tires. Keeps the F-R balance in check.
Good luck!
Thank you for the info!!! I have them so the drums just fit on there. I dont have to jam them on but there is also not much gap at all so it should be ok! Zues, when you adjust your brakes during routine maintenence, Do you usually pull the drum? I know the only way to adjust them through the hole is to tighten them. Are you saying that you just make sure they are just dragging a little?? Also, I think they will self adjust by setting the parking brake a few times?
You're welcome, glad to be of help. What gap you have - you should have to measure with flat feeler gauges, not a ruler. It's supposed to be d@mn close.
Yes, I pull the drum and blow it and the brake guts clean with 80psi compressed air. (Don't care for that cleaner spray) Then do my adjusting. The only adjustment you should have to do is to tighten them...unless you tighten them to far. I adjust them to drag 'a little'. But be careful, you can adjust them to drag too much and not know it. Like I said before, it's a judgement call. Hard to describe in words.
Last time I did it to the GN, I had to start the motor and put it in gear to listen for the drag. I couldn't turn it free hand and 'feel it'. I think it's because of the locking differential, but I'm not sure. Differentials and auto tranis are beyond me right now.
Not to my knowledge. Even if they did, I wouldn't do it that way. I would prefer to put the proper weight against it. It's a mechanical proportional force thing that I really can't explain very well. I just know how it works to make them work like they should.
Besides - I'm a wire nut, not a bolt nut! :biggrin:
Electrical engineer. Better money.......I think.
Been playing with electricity all my life. Wired a full operational train set with acccessories when I was in middle school but lost interest in trains later on. Had to teach my Dad how to wire houses when I was 16....absorb some voltage once in a while. It's fun and interesting. Get to travel some too.
Thread content - Cars are my hobby, have been since I built models when I was a kid. Still build one once in a while. Made a GN model for my wife after we met and impressed her enough to say yes. Did my first set of brakes before I had a driving permit. My brother taught me what he knows and now he comes to me because I have learned more.
Ain't life grand?
Been playing with electricity all my life. Wired a full operational train set with acccessories when I was in middle school but lost interest in trains later on. Had to teach my Dad how to wire houses when I was 16....absorb some voltage once in a while. It's fun and interesting. Get to travel some too.
Thread content - Cars are my hobby, have been since I built models when I was a kid. Still build one once in a while. Made a GN model for my wife after we met and impressed her enough to say yes. Did my first set of brakes before I had a driving permit. My brother taught me what he knows and now he comes to me because I have learned more.
Ain't life grand?
Under Pressure
New Member
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- Feb 8, 2004
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- 635
i always adjust mine when the drums are on.theres a lil slot on the bottom of the backing plate use a adjusting tool on the star adjuster and spin the drum till you feel a lil drag and thats your best adjustment.Good luck!!Union tinner here...
Same difference as what I do, I just prefer to remove the drum to reach the adjuster. Main point is stil to have that drag 'just right'.
Tinner?
Excellent point...If that lip is there, consider having the drum turned. That lip can cause headaches.
Yeah I got the drums turned already and installed. I have vaccuum brakes and the brakes seem a little mushy. I did the s10 upgraded cylinders and new pad. I blead the crap out of the rears but didnt think it was necessary to do all four. Any ideas? BTW, I also put a completely different rear end in the car as well. I did have the rear of the car up high on jack stands so I didnt think the air would get into the front lines. Am I not adjusted properly or not properly blead?
A mushy pedal is a clear indication of air in the system. Double check any and all connections that you messed with installing those cyliners and the fitting(s) on that replacement rear. If the slightest leak is there, air is geting in every time you let the pedal back up (guessing pump bleeding).
Sometimes, the old lines and flare fittings don't like to work right any more. If you can't get any leaks to stop, you may want to consider replacing these parts with new. Brakes are no place to try and skimp with failing parts. The S10 cylinders were new or rebuild, right?
You should do the fronts (if not for anything, then...) for good measure. Fresh fluid won't hurt a thing. You never know, you may have air in there and not know it.
Sometimes, the old lines and flare fittings don't like to work right any more. If you can't get any leaks to stop, you may want to consider replacing these parts with new. Brakes are no place to try and skimp with failing parts. The S10 cylinders were new or rebuild, right?
You should do the fronts (if not for anything, then...) for good measure. Fresh fluid won't hurt a thing. You never know, you may have air in there and not know it.
Under Pressure
New Member
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- Feb 8, 2004
- Messages
- 635
Check Or Replace Lines
THE LINES GET OLD AND THEY dont hold the pressure
and expand ... Common problem with these cars.Just make sure you dont have any air in lines its sounds like you covered that issue though.
THE LINES GET OLD AND THEY dont hold the pressure
and expand ... Common problem with these cars.Just make sure you dont have any air in lines its sounds like you covered that issue though.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
- Messages
- 2,205
I used to have a slightly low pedal, even after adjusting the brakes, so I thought I would peruse (sp?) the factory manual. If you follow the brake adjustment with a parking brake adjustment, your brakes should be just fine. I would start by backing off the parking brake cable and then adjusting the brakes with a drum gauge. Once adjusted, install the drums. Then depress the parking brake pedal three clicks. Now tighten the parking brake cable until the wheel does not turn. Once you release the parking brake, your brakes should be fully adjusted. If you have air in your system, I would recommend a Pheonix system brake bleeder. Works great, it is a reverse pressure bleeder, which pumps fluid from the wheel cylinder or caliper towards the master cylinder. It should relive the complete braking system of any air.
chopped39
Well-Known Member
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- Aug 30, 2004
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- 4,260
there is a tool made for adjusting drum brakes. You set it to the inside of drum and lock it down and then you turn it around and you adjust shoes out till it touches tool and presto your brakes are adjusted. it will not work if you have a lip on drum. if you want a pic of tool let me know. I used it all the time and now with disc brakes it does not see to much use.lol
