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Advantage Of Poly Engine Motor Mounts

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The pass side only is #0103 for the prod. 3.8 block. It comes with the softer poly in it, no reason to have the regular one in there. This is good to high 9 sec zone, which seems to be the limit of the stk blk.

As for the swaybar, I AM working on it :) I am finishing up on the TTA mounts now, and working on the swaybar at the same time. Once the TTA mt's are rolling, I will be full on the swaybar. I was hoping to have proto's testing by the end of the year, but with the holidays & everything else going on....
Good things come to those who wait ;)
 
Thanks.

I'll get them both in the spring. ;)

Car is getting covered up Thanksgiving time anyway. :)
 
Poly drivers side mount here, no strap, and stock passenger side mount(low miles).

I can feel a little vibration with the poly mount installed but nothing that you can't tolerate or get used to. I wouldn't have it any other way. :)
 
Just got back from tightening up my mounts. RH was finger tight, LH wasn't very tight either. These are the bolts that attach the mount to the cradle. In my own defense, someone else was resonponsible for that part of the install :p

Vibe is pretty much gone. Like night and day. Glovebox door rattle is gone; car feels "stock" again.

Glad it was so easy - and I was willing to live with it the way it was anyway.

Jim
 
COOL!!!!!!!!

I was hoping that would do it. If it seems like too much vibration, tightening those long bolts usually does it :)
 
CHECK THIS VIDEO OUT!

http://www.caro.net/sully/temp/hrparts.wmv

Looks pretty cool if you view it full screen!

Steve S. down in NC is graciously doing some testing for us with a new pair of Poly Motor Mounts. The link is to a video that has 4 parts:

1) Stk mounts idling
2) Stk mounts light brake torque
3) Poly mounts idling
4) Poly mounts light brake torque


The motor with the stock mounts looks like it is going to jump right out of there! And he didn't even plan on getting a set right now, but he is REALLY glad he has them now! I can't imagine what the alternator or accessory bracket would look like if it had a strap on it. Way too much stress to be putting up there. Thought you all would get a kick out of seeing this.
 
It took a lot of convincing and couple of beers to get my buddy to believe that the tires would break loose before it moved very much.. You can see the camera shake a bit when the car creeps forward a tad in the stock-underload portion.

You can see I used to have a tie-down strap and it bent the stainless hardened eyepiece on a regular basis.

These are excellent pieces and they really went in easier than I thought.

ps.. Sorry for any typos but that Hedi Klum is a babe (Victorias Secret Fashion show is on)

Sully
 
Great video. What condition were the stock mounts in, were they deteriorated or in good condition. The drivers side looked like it must have been shot with that kind of movement?

paul
 
Anyone have these with a big lumpy cam?
I have one and would like to put in the drivers side mount and was just wondering if this would shake the car (not that I mind).
Also, what's the proceedure for install? is it pretty simple?do I need an engine hoist or can I jack it up a tad via the pan?
TIA
 
I also would like to know if the mounts can be changed by jacking the engine up a little instead of having to remove tanny and pulling it out.
 
I put them on in my garage with 2 car ramps, a floor jack and a short piece of 2 by 10. It only took about an hour and a half and was actually easier than I thought.


Sully
 
Originally posted by V6 Beast
I put them on in my garage with 2 car ramps, a floor jack and a short piece of 2 by 10. It only took about an hour and a half and was actually easier than I thought.


Sully

That's about all there is too it. Sometimes depending on downpipe brand & age, header brand, etc, it is a little tight on the pass side. If all else fails, take another 15 min. & drop the starter for more room. This is only needed about 5% of the time.

As for running them with big cams, we got them on cars with killer stg II setups with big mechanical rollers. Not an issue for any one of them.
 
Is it also a good idea to run a poly trans mount or just stick to the factory one?
 
Our poly trans mount is a bolt in setup, designed to work with the factory crossmember. It doesn't really add much vibration at all, and is virtually indestructable. After taking my stock trans mt out, I wouldn't use it for mounting a cigarette lighter, let alone a transmission :)

Even if the stock tranny mount is in good condition & not broken, it is still not enough for high performance applications. It lets the end of the trans move around under power, stressing the trans case & mis-aligning the driveshaft. The mis-alignment will eat up HP, change pinion angle, hit the d-shaft loop or tunnel if it moves too far, & who knows what else. On a 13 sec street car, it is not a really big deal. On an 11 sec car, it gets a lot more important. In the 10's, the stock mount is not much better than a rubberband :)
 
That's the EASY one :) About 45 minutes counting jacking it up/down should easily cover it. There is one slight mod needed if you are running the stock exhaust hanger. The lip on one edge needs ground down for about 4 inches. A simple hand grinder will do this with ease.
 
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