Alky chip vs 110 race fuel chip- differences?

[Squid4life]

Just have a quick question. I am very strongly considering getting an alky kit from Razor, but had a chip question. I run TT chips, but was curious if a new chip configuration is needed for alky. If so, what changes? I know all I have to do is tell Eric what I have, etc, but was curious what changes settings-wise from a 110 race fuel chip to an alky chip. I couldn't find much info on a search.

 

[Joe Lubrant]

Just have a quick question. I am very strongly considering getting an alky kit from Razor, but had a chip question. I run TT chips, but was curious if a new chip configuration is needed for alky. If so, what changes? I know all I have to do is tell Eric what I have, etc, but was curious what changes settings-wise from a 110 race fuel chip to an alky chip. I couldn't find much info on a search.

Timing would be one of the differences. The 110 chip would have more timing w.o.t .then an alky chip. Also depending on your Injector size, fueling would also need to be addressed.

Joe

 

[Razor]

The fueling will be different.

Now days, the alky kits allow high timing to be run, typically on the 1/2 gear.. then backed down on the 3/4.

The fueling for a 25lb alky chip is very similar to that of a street chip for 18 lbs. The alky makes up the fueling difference. The timing will then be that of a race chip. Most of us that drive the cars on the street will limit timing, as conditions are always unknown.

I believe Eric on his Alky chips uses 23/24 degrees for the 1/2 gear, 22/21 in 3/4. Typical street chip is 18/19 degree's. Race chips typically 24/26 degree's.

HTH

 

[Squid4life]

Razor, you said: "The fueling for a 25lb alky chip"...

When ordering a chip from Eric, would you tell him what boost you plan to run? Kind of like what octane you will be running? Whereas if I ordered a 23psi alky chip, but decided to run 27 psi, would I need another chip? Or is an alky chip an alky chip, whether you use it as a safeguard at 15-17 psi, or go crazy with 28? With the changes being made to the alky controller.

 

[JoeNational]

Razor, you said: "The fueling for a 25lb alky chip"...

When ordering a chip from Eric, would you tell him what boost you plan to run? Kind of like what octane you will be running? Whereas if I ordered a 23psi alky chip, but decided to run 27 psi, would I need another chip? Or is an alky chip an alky chip, whether you use it as a safeguard at 15-17 psi, or go crazy with 28? With the changes being made to the alky controller.

Great question!!, Dont mean to jump on this tread but I myself and am about to order Razor's kit and would like to know this question as I dont know what boost I would run until it comes down to it.

Thanks,

 

[Blazer406]

Eric puts a boost number written on his chips... because he has programmed enough fuel in the chip for that amount of boost...... in most cases that is probably pretty close...... If you run alot more boost than the chip was programmed for... you might be lean a little...... but you might can up the fuel pressure (if you are already out of fuel adjustment in the chip settings) a little to compensate w/o getting a new chip unless it starts giving trouble idling... and part throttle driveability issues.....If those issues arise... you need another chip most likely.... On the flipside.....if you get a chip cut for 27# of boost .... but only run 19# .... probably going to be too rich.... but you can try to back off the fuel pressure (if you are cut all the way down already on the fueling adjustment in the chip).... this could also cause driveability/idling issues..... which likely mean you need another chip.....


HTH

 

[Razor]

Blazer406.. rite on.

See when a chip is made for your car, there is some guessing involved. The more experience the person making the chip has with combinations similar to yours, the less guessing. Once your GM MAF hits 255.. there is no way the ecm knows what fueling you'll need. So a programmed value for fuel is used(guess).. But it is impossible(virtually) to have a perfect chip on the first go around. The word perfect is said carefully..As my definition of perfect and someone elses will be different. Just like a paint job :wink:

So.. with that being said, you baseline the car with the chip.. and then go and see if any chanegs need to be made.. if so then address those changes. Your chip progerammer will need DATA to make changes, programs like Direct Scan can be used to communicate information so decisions can be made. Make a few runs, then email the runs to the chip maker.. Telling someone "It Feels" like its running rich... isnt going to cut it.

Some of the newer chips may employ programmable features to assist with the changes, so the chip doesnt have to leave the car. Like adding fuel or timing. Doesnt mean its needed, just that some changes can happen without having to send a chip across the country.

The first chips I used years ago were the Thrasher93 and Reds93 street chips. Those I ran at 25+ PSI boost. The fueling was rite for 25 PSI and alky, or 18 PSI and no alky. Only bad thing, was the low street timing strategy those chips employed... performance wise. So for a cheapo alky chip.. those worked for me.

HTH

 

[Squid4life]

Thanks guys, that makes sense. I guess I will have to do some figuring on what I will want to run. This will be my daily driver, getting ready to head from Kansas to Florida, then to California. All in the GN......

I want a safe setup, but also want to haul tail. What is average? 25?

 

[Razor]

The higher the timing and boost run, the more chances for an issue to surface.

Just like the saying, if you dont want failures, dont race the car. Typically boost levels 20-25 PSI and with great maintenance.. yield positive results. Getting greedy and beating on it.. will shorten the life span on all parts. As will trying to wring out the last drop of power.

I like 23-24 degrees on 1/2 shifts.. and 22-24 PSI boost. Once in a while beatings.. :wink:

Racing at a track, 26-28 degree's 1/2 shifts.. 26-28 PSI boost.. once an hour beatings :biggrin:

 

[Blazer406]

I should also recommend.... if you don't already have one.... to purchase an audible knock detector...... like the one from Caspers.... It will alert you loudly when it hears knock letting you know to back-off...... or suffer the consequences.....IMHO it is a must have for any car still running the stock ECM and bigger boost and/or increased timing.

The dataloggers (directscan, scanmaster, turbolink).... can see knock too..... but Razor once told me with a datalogger.... and no audible knock detector...... you will most likely have a clear datalog of what everything was doing.... when she blew up...... the audible might just get your attention soon enough to keep this from happening.....

Just my 0.02

 

[Squid4life]

Thanks for the info Razor, I will be in contact soon.

Blazer, I do have a knock gauge, audible knock detector, and TLink. I agree 100% with you! Thanks!