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All New A/C and still not cold. Vacuum Issue?

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Re: A/C Temp at outlet

Originally posted by digorok
Is the 58 the temp at the outlet??? Depending on the outside temp, it should be around 40 at 1500 rpm on high blower and MAX. ............

Outlet temp of 40 degrees on a 100+ deg day in a GN sounds unreachable in a GN with 134a? We can hardly see that with R-12 here in the summer and Houston is rather hot as I recall.

With 134a in the system and even a new Delco compressor have never seen it that low. One reason I have converted some systems back to R-12 is that there is insufficent cooling with 134a, which is lots less efficient.
 
100+ days

Your correct, on 100+ days you may not be able to got 40 at idle, but at 1500 you should get at least 50. With r12 on my Toyota I get 30 at the outlet with 90 outside temp.
I all depends on how much gas you add in and how well your condensor is working. With vehicals that have been converted, like the GN's, I don't charge by weight, I charge by performance. I find it works out better.
 
Fixed ????

Is it fixed ???? The original problem was that the air was not coming out of the vents. Did you find a fix???
On another post, it was reported that the seal around the door that directs the air was worn and leaking air. The whole unit had to come out, but it looks like that was the problem.
 
No the problem is not fixed. I wished it was. All the door seals are okay. Actually, they look brand new.

I've checked all the vacuum lines under the hood. Most have been replaced. The heater valve is not sticking. And there is vacuum at the canister.

Any ideas?
 
Are you sure you have vacuum inside the car?
You could have blocked/broken line, bad or improperly installed check valve(s)......

From what I've read, you have cool air, but it's flowing thru the default vents instead of the dash vents, right?
 
I have halfway cold air. 58 degrees at the defrost vent. All new AC w R134A. Good gauge readings. Windows up and 91 outside.

I have traced the vacuum outside but haven't traced the lines inside. Both doors close properly and the foam looks good. I can hear both open and close.

Any ideas?
 
Diagram

I have a diagram of what the lines for the vents do. Send me a PM with your email and I can send it to you.
 
it might be me but doesnt 40 degrees seem very cold?

I work at my dads autobody and he specializes in lexus, even the lexus's dont get cooler then say 57ish
I would think a newer car with a better AC(assuming its better since its expensive and new) would be colder than out 16 year old cars no?

I have the R12 and my ac goes to 55ish at the vents
how the hell can I get it to 40? I never heard an ac system getting that cold before is it just me?

thanks guys

Carl
 
I thought the exact same thing Carl. I thought his problem was that it was coming out of the heater and defrost vents, which wont cool the car as well making him think the ac is not working. But its really the vents.

Scott
 
A/C temp

Did a friends 87GN a few weeks ago, outside-87, center vent-39, medium fan setting, 1500rpm, fan in front of radiator, pressure reading low-25, high-185.
I use the blue orifice tube, don't know who much r134 in the system because I charge by performance, not weight, but about 24oz.
My 86 Toyota turbo PU gets down to 31 at night, and my dads 90 Maxima is 35. Both r12 systems.
 
I never tried it at 1500 rpm just at idle. How much difference is there between the 2?

Scott
 
Difference

Auto A/C systems are designed to be the most efficent while driving. The faster the engine turns, the more the compressor pumps.
A car moving at 35 to 40 mph, at about 1500rpm, with good air flow through the condensor, will be working at it's best. At idle the system is working at it's minimum.
When testing you want to make sure you have a fan blowing air through the condensor, 1500rpm, windows closed, controls at max and fan on medium, A/C gauges attached. Depending on the outside temp, the low gauge should go down to 25 and the high shouldn't go over 300. If the high is starting to get close, mist some water on the condensor, it should go down right away. The cooler the condensor is, the cooler the vent air will be. If everything else is working properly.
 
OK, on my car my Condensor (new GM one) is so cold you can barley touch it, as is the line going to it, yet the air out the vents is Luke Cool at best, didn't stick the Thermometer (Meat type) in a vent yet.

Ideas???
 
My problem for 3 years was my fan wasnt working. SO check the easy stuff before you start replacing compresors. Dont you dare ask me how i know!;)

Scott
 
To TClassic

I think you meant to say the evap is cold. The cond is the one in front of the radiator, it should get real hot.
A quick way to tell of the evap is working well is to feel the inlet (small metal line), and the outlet (big metal line). They temp should feel the same or close. This will tell you the evap is cooling completely.
If the evap is ok you'll have to check the rest of the system to see if hot air is comming in, or cold air is not going through.
 
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