Alternator field fix.

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getdowngranny

Mr. Fix It
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
907
I know Casper's has a kit that does this for you, but I am looking for a way to test my alternator now. I had some electrical issues with the car today am I am trying to eliminate components. Is there a way i can test it on the car to make sure it's working? I put a voltmeter to it and it was only reading 11.8 volts which tells me it had no output and i was only reading battery voltage. Having 2 batteries and a bunch or car audio wiring and relays is making this a big clusterf@*k.
 
If the bulb is burnt out or not making connection in the cluster, your alt will not charge. It has to complete the circuit to turn on the electo-magnets in the alt for it to charge.
 
Yep. idiot light in the dash related. Mine wouldn't charge when I had the dash cluster pulled loose. If that light isn't coming on when you turn the key on, it's your problem.
 
I thought mine read "volts" not "batt" at the light. I could be wrong. My alternator crapped out last summer, so that was the last time I remember looking at it. My memory may be failing. I'm sorry what were we talking about?
 
I purchased one of the "kits" and the wires were switched around in the harness. I know someone else who had the same problem with the kit. Im pretty sure the wire coming from the Alternator just needs a power source.
 
New bulb still no light. Plus electrical smell near dash and engine compartment. Everything but alternator works. I can't find the source of the smell.
 
I think the problem is in my dash. None of the lights on the left side of the dash works. How can I bypass that damn idiot light to make sure my alternator is good before I attack this dash?
 
Testing? You could connect a good bulb between the battery and the correct alt terminal thus bypassing the dash.
 
Well. Found the source of the smell. It was a burnt voltage regulator on the alternator. But now ever since I messed with the bulbs in the dash, the dash lights seem like the have a bad contact somewhere. If I press on it hard the right side message lights work. What to do next?
 
had same problem I took a fine steel wool and cleaned the back of cluster on the ribbon wire where all the bulbs screwed/twisted in and the little contacts on the bulbs also, make sure that your ribbon traces dont get smashed/pinched between cluster and dash and make sure the plug that holds itself into the dash pushes back into gauge cluster tight
 
Alright. Im trying to take this cluster out and it's giving up a fight. What's the trick to taking off the speedo cable off. I dont have enough space to put my hand back there to pull off the clip that's on it. If I pull any harder ill rip seething off.
 
Yeah those are a bitch. I never could get the cluster all the way out, the wires for the tach/boost gauge connect behind the rest of the dash and are near impossible to get to. The connector for the panel stays with the dash and connects when you push it all back together. make sure the connector is seated where it belongs and then make sure the dash is going all the way back and screwing down tight. When you push on the cluster you are making it connect there.
 
Yeah those are a bitch. I never could get the cluster all the way out, the wires for the tach/boost gauge connect behind the rest of the dash and are near impossible to get to. The connector for the panel stays with the dash and connects when you push it all back together. make sure the connector is seated where it belongs and then make sure the dash is going all the way back and screwing down tight. When you push on the cluster you are making it connect there.
This is the first time ive had to take apart the dash on the GN and i can honestly say "this dash sucks". I have a feeling that if i take that clip off of the speedo it aint coming back on without me getting pissed. Is the big connector behind the cluster supposed fit snug? Mine seems to kinda just float on there no matter how hard i press on the dash. Whats the trick/fix for that crap?
 
getdowngranny said:
This is the first time ive had to take apart the dash on the GN and i can honestly say "this dash sucks". I have a feeling that if i take that clip off of the speedo it aint coming back on without me getting pissed. Is the big connector behind the cluster supposed fit snug? Mine seems to kinda just float on there no matter how hard i press on the dash. Whats the trick/fix for that crap?

Use an eraser on the dash connector and a scribe to scratch the female connector terminals. Once everything is screwed down it's fairly snug. The wire that comes off the alternator stays the same color all the way to the bulkhead connector and is easily traceable. I've never seen the wire be the problem. It seems that the connector terminals get corroded over time and work intermittently or not at all. It's possible the bulb burned out but not common.
 
when its time to put speedo cable back look by the drivers side fender/firewall area there will be a screw type cable connector where the 2 speedo cables will meet male/female type, unscrew and it will let cable move also follow cable and help with any slack since the more cable that loosens up the more inside car more for you, then after back in reconnect where you disconnect. Now Im not sure if this 2 piece speedo cable is present cruise control or not cruise control my car never had cruise so I can assume that all are alike? I know how you feel thats when I started hunting for a better way hope it helps
 
And make sure that the wire connector for the car side of is tight it should snap tight into plastic precut opening on behind the dash underside then when you snap cluster in there are about 4 screws 7mm or 9/32 that holds cluster correctly.
I can tell you this much if you dont have all 4 in you will not get proper operation, trust me I found out from experience.
Make sure that when you put cluster in dont pinch your ribbon wiring on backside of cluster.e pinch one and you will smell smoke and burn somthing up, oh yeah that can happen when cluster isint flush and tight when you press on cluster most likely you will burn a trace easily.
 
The best thing I've found for cleaning the connector spades is battery cleaner. Disconnect the battery. Spray just a little cleaner on the copper spades on both sides, use a brass or stainless detail brush and gently give them a good cleaning. I usually spray some contact cleaner on afterward to remove any residue. As you've noted, you don't want to take it apart again. I had a feeling that was going to be your problem. Remember you are dealing with electrical connectors (and a poor design) that is 25 plus years old. There is a way to avoid all this, but it usually comes with a fat payment book. Good luck!
 
The best thing I've found for cleaning the connector spades is battery cleaner. Disconnect the battery. Spray just a little cleaner on the copper spades on both sides, use a brass or stainless detail brush and gently give them a good cleaning. I usually spray some contact cleaner on afterward to remove any residue. As you've noted, you don't want to take it apart again. I had a feeling that was going to be your problem. Remember you are dealing with electrical connectors (and a poor design) that is 25 plus years old. There is a way to avoid all this, but it usually comes with a fat payment book. Good luck!
I am an Electronics Technician in the Coast Guard, but i HATE having to do electrical work on my own cars. I dont know why!!!! Kinda one of those things like being a barber but alway having a shitty haircut. I'll attack it this weekend and if it gives up too much of a fight, ill just do the LeSabre dash upgrade that ive been needing an excuse to do.
 
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