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Aluminum Radiators - Cold Case vs Champion

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Rayk

Let the Boost begin!
Joined
May 31, 2001
Messages
300
I've researched a new radiator for my TR and was just about to buy the Cold Case p/n GMB57A that is a direct drop-in with a very minor trim on the support top. I can buy it for $445 plus shipping. I then found this Champion radiator that can be bought for $245! It has both the oil and tranny coolers and is suppose to also be a drop-in. Can anyone comment on one vs. the other? I've used the Cold Case before with success but, never the Champion.

 
I installed the cold case radiator three years ago and am very happy with it. The downside to the Cold case is the radiator hold down plate had to be replaced with an aftermarket one.
 
I installed the cold case radiator three years ago and am very happy with it. The downside to the Cold case is the radiator hold down plate had to be replaced with an aftermarket one.
Thanks for the comment. There's now a photo on the Cold Case site of the mod to the factory plate so it can be retained.
 
Thanks for the comment. There's now a photo on the Cold Case site of the mod to the factory plate so it can be retained.
I looked-The only picture I saw was for making the cut necessary for installation. No reference to Hold Down Plate modification. Did I miss something?
 
I've researched a new radiator for my TR and was just about to buy the Cold Case p/n GMB57A that is a direct drop-in with a very minor trim on the support top. I can buy it for $445 plus shipping. I then found this Champion radiator that can be bought for $245! It has both the oil and tranny coolers and is suppose to also be a drop-in. Can anyone comment on one vs. the other? I've used the Cold Case before with success but, never the Champion.

Never ever buy a radiator with more than 2 rows of cooling tubes. There is no contact of tubes to cooling fins in between rows, so the core gets thicker at the expense of efficiency. The best that you can do is a radiator with 2 rows of 1.25" tubes. The cold case used to be 2 rows of 1" wide tubes. I think it might now be 2 rows of 1.25" tubes. Either way, the cold case is the way to go. The number of rows is not what they should be advertising. They should be bragging about the width of the tubes.
 
I am not so sure about the rows being an issue (with the Champion). I have a Champion four row and can say that it is doing an exemplary job. I would want to communicate with Champion about the contact of the fins before just assuming that is the case.
 
I just put in a cold case and retained the original plate. I just bolted it down without the rubbers. Looks fine and factory and it's held solid.
 
My friend put in a champion 2 years ago was half the price of the cold case drops right in has both coolers and does a good job.Zero issues if I needed one that’s what I would buy now.
 
Ron Davis racing builds some of the best radiators for top racers 2 row 1 in is what you will find on is page = 2 in of contact
Champion is 3 rows .63=1.89 in plus less fin contact
 
Never ever buy a radiator with more than 2 rows of cooling tubes. There is no contact of tubes to cooling fins in between rows, so the core gets thicker at the expense of efficiency. The best that you can do is a radiator with 2 rows of 1.25" tubes. The cold case used to be 2 rows of 1" wide tubes. I think it might now be 2 rows of 1.25" tubes. Either way, the cold case is the way to go. The number of rows is not what they should be advertising. They should be bragging about the width of the tubes.

Ron Davis racing builds some of the best radiators for top racers 2 row 1 in is what you will find on is page = 2 in of contact
Champion is 3 rows .63=1.89 in plus less fin contact
Good comparison. Thanks.
 
Believe my Alradco is 2 rows of 1-1/4” cooling tubes
Works most excellently 😘👍
Best of all it actually was a “drop in” radiator
 
Champion/intrepid fan combo never above 175 degrees in 90 outside temps, all can be had for under $300
 
Three years ago installed Cold Case. With some slight modifications to rubber stops and a bit of trimming we were able to retain the original hold down plate. This car has been on several long trips in hot weather with no issues related to the radiator.
 
F body works fine too.
Spectra cu162 from parts store 1 in tube work great to around 95 with AC in traffic but its fine on the highway at speed no problem. with wats in your sig big cooling probably the champion would work. Are you running engine oil cooler?
 
hello peoples: I have a griffin alum. rad and I'm still chasing heat. After I got it someone had said that the Griff fins R two close togeather or something like that and if I had known I would of went another route. It's in and has been for some years and that's that.
IBBY
 
sometimes going from a 160 to 170-180 can help buy holding the water in the radiator a little longer.
Making sure all the OE air baffles are in place is key to. That may look tacky in the grill but very important to get air flow through the radiator.
Key no mater what radiator you install
 
Spectra cu162 from parts store 1 in tube work great to around 95 with AC in traffic but its fine on the highway at speed no problem. with wats in your sig big cooling probably the champion would work. Are you running engine oil cooler?
Yes, I’m running both the radiator oil cooler, radiator tranny fluid cooler and an auxiliary tranny fluid cooler mounted in front of the A/C condenser. (About 2 inch air clearance between the cooler and the A/C condenser.
 
I guess it boils down to what you want to spend. My car is on jacks right now, but is mainly a garage queen. Someone mentioned an F body radiatorI’ve heard good things about those also
 
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