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Angled Grease / Zerk Fitting for G Body Tubular Upper Control Arms

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1KWIKSIX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Messages
3,119
I've got a set of G bodies tubular upper control arms that will be going on soon.

I have heard that gaining access to one of the grease / zerk fittings is damn near impossible on one of the arms but don't recall an more details.

I'd like to install a 90 degree grease / zerk fitting to enable better access with a grease gun.

Can anyone tell me if these should go to both (front & rear) grease fitting location on the control arm or just one? To anyone who has these already installed, a picture showing the available clearance would be most helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help.

dave
 
I can get a pic later today. I bet it is the passenger side rear fitting being referred to. I don't have an AC box and it is still a pain. Would help with 90° fittings for sure at all locations I would think... should be able to get to all of them from the fender well then.

I'll take a picture later.
 
also, I filled mine up the first time, drove 50 miles and they were squeaking like hell, so I hit them again and tons of black crap came out of em. Been great ever since. Keep them well lubricated and you will be happy with them!
 
Thanks DoubleD,

Looking forward to recieving some pictures. I've PM'd you my e-mail address to send pictures to.

I've orderd some synthetic grease (super lube) from Brian at GBody Parts.....he claims this stuff is he best? Not sure , so will see.
What grease you been using?

thanks again,

dave
 
I use the same synthetic grease that you are referring to, silver tube I think. Works good, stable at high temperatures.

I'll get the pics when I get home tonight.

-D

Can also post pics here for others interested.
 
got all the pics, here's some showing mine installed. The rear zerks would be the ones to put 90° fittings on.

mine is lowered in the front with 5658s and proforged 1/2" taller balljoints upper and lower. and QA1-Rs.
 

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  • Drivers rear from wheelwell - use 90 on rear pointed to wheelwell probably best.jpg
    Drivers rear from wheelwell - use 90 on rear pointed to wheelwell probably best.jpg
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  • Drivers side rear from underhood - use 90 pointed up by brake lines maybe.jpg
    Drivers side rear from underhood - use 90 pointed up by brake lines maybe.jpg
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  • Passenger rear from underhood - inaccessible.jpg
    Passenger rear from underhood - inaccessible.jpg
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  • Passenger Side Both from Wheelwell - use 90 on rear pointed towards wheel.jpg
    Passenger Side Both from Wheelwell - use 90 on rear pointed towards wheel.jpg
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  • Drivers front from underhood - accessible.jpg
    Drivers front from underhood - accessible.jpg
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  • Passenger front from underhood - Accessible.jpg
    Passenger front from underhood - Accessible.jpg
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Thanks DoubleD for posting & sending me the pics.....they are a big help.
Now just trying to decide if I should tackle the installation of the tubular uppers & lowers myself, or have a pro do em & take it to a front end shop?

Thanks once again......greatly appreciated.

cheers!

dave
 
There's a complete write up on how to do a suspension rebuild in the how to section. Matt did it and has never tackled anything like it before, so if he can do it then you should be able to do it.;)
 
I just use regular fittings and I bought the adapter for the grease gun. Lincoln makes an adapter for the grease gun that slides on the zerk from the side. the part # on mine is 5883. Google Lincoln and that number
 
Thanks charlief1, I'll take a look & see. I am pretty mechanically inclinded so I am confident that I could do it.
Truth be known though, it's the compressed front spring & it's dangers that has me concerned.


Chopped39, thanks for the information. I will do a quick google search and decide.

thanks again,
dave
 
Thanks charlief1, I'll take a look & see. I am pretty mechanically inclinded so I am confident that I could do it.
Truth be known though, it's the compressed front spring & it's dangers that has me concerned.

thanks again,
dave
One of those dirty tricks to getting the spring out is to not take the ball joint loose but the 2 bolts that hold the arm to the frame. GM actually had a tool that fit on the bottom of the arm to hold it in place and once the bolts were removed you just drop the arm down. That way the spring is released and no chance of it being sent across the shop.;)
 
One of those dirty tricks to getting the spring out is to not take the ball joint loose but the 2 bolts that hold the arm to the frame. GM actually had a tool that fit on the bottom of the arm to hold it in place and once the bolts were removed you just drop the arm down. That way the spring is released and no chance of it being sent across the shop.;)

I sent a few across the shop:eek:. The lower bolts is the way to go
 
pretty sure you can get them in the drawers at an Ace Hardware or something similar. That's where I will end up going first.
 
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