Another low volt question

[eismont_designs]

Ok I have been reading through the forums for a solution. Haven't found one yet.

Here is the story. My battery is draining, just started to happen. I have a field fix kit. I got the battery and alternator tested, they both came back good. I checked all the grounds from the battery, double checked the field fix kit was plugged in and that the connections were clean. My battery is testing around 11.2 - 11.8 volts when the car is running. The same thing is happening when I take a multimeter to the alternator. It seems like the alternator is not exciting, but I could be wrong?

1. Could the field fix go bad?
2. Is there anything else I should be checking?

Thanks,
Mitch

 

[sam87]

Ok I have been reading through the forums for a solution. Haven't found one yet.

Here is the story. My battery is draining, just started to happen. I have a field fix kit. I got the battery and alternator tested, they both came back good. I checked all the grounds from the battery, double checked the field fix kit was plugged in and that the connections were clean. My battery is testing around 11.2 - 11.8 volts when the car is running. The same thing is happening when I take a multimeter to the alternator. It seems like the alternator is not exciting, but I could be wrong?

1. Could the field fix go bad?
2. Is there anything else I should be checking?

Thanks,
Mitch

With car running above idle, you should read 14+ volts at the battery. Since you are not, could be voltage drop because of a bad wire/connection but appears more likely that the alternator is bad. I had an alternator that gave a 14+ volt reading with a voltmeter but wouldn't charge the battery because diodes were burned.
Sam

 

[natedog910]

It possible like sam87 said ,It would show volts but not be putting out amps

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Mitch, do a key-on, engine-off. Unplug the connector from the alternator and with a DVM check for +12 volts on both the F & L terminals. The L terminal is from the dash lamp, which should be lite up. Unless the dash is foo-bar, then don't worry about it.

The F terminal is from the field fix kit and must have +12 volts on it. If not check the ECM/SOL fuse in the fuse block (10 A).

At the boost solenoid connector, the PNK/BLK wire is powered from that fuse. This is where the field fix kit picks up power for the alternator F terminal (field).

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[eismont_designs]

Thanks everyone. The light bulb in the dash was long gone. Went with the field fix about 3 years ago. I checked the ECM/SOL fuse a few days ago.
I went to auto zone (idiots) to have the alternator tested a few days back. I had a friend tell me, as others have stated, that it could still be the alternator, it maybe the way they were testing it. I have a new alt ordered in, I am going to swap it out and see what happens.

I am a bit of a novice when it comes to wiring. How and where do I probe the F terminal? What would I stick the red probe and the black probe?

Again thanks for everyone's help.

-Mitch

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I am a bit of a novice when it comes to wiring. How and where do I probe the F terminal? What would I stick the red probe and the black probe?

Again thanks for everyone's help.

-Mitch

This is on the connector that goes to the alternator. It should have the terminal annunciations molded into the side of it. If not it is the one that is next to the large end one.

The DVM red probe goes to the terminal marked F (field). The DVM black probe goes to ground (alternator body).

RemoveBeforeFlight