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Anti-roll setups for low 9, high 8 second cars.

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this worked great for me at the track 1.40 60fts'
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but mine is a street car and switched to this and have been much happier
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i had the wolfe on my mustang and was very happy with it 1.29 60ft's
 
Phil, what is it you like about the HR over the previous setup? My car is drag race only, so cornering is not a concern.
 
I installed the uppers today. Dumb me. I didn't measure the rearend height before the install. It is lower now, just don't know by how much. If I had to guess, somewhere between 1/2 to an inch.
 
well mine is a street racing car, and the bronze bushings wore out after a year of weekend street racing, and the noise got annoying..

The one i was running was a wolfe knock off from ebay for $150.00 bucks
went from this "no sway bar"
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to this "wolfe knock off"
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PS with the HR bar, i can run a tail pipe, and the car doesnt bind up when driving around corners in town
 
Phil, what is it you like about the HR over the previous setup? My car is drag race only, so cornering is not a concern.

For your application the race bar might be a better fit.
PM me if you want. =)

Phil is an animal and I love his car!!!
 
Phil,

How do you adjust your pinion angle?
Are there any differences in your 60 and 330s between the two?
 
I got tired of watching Avon drive 3/8ths of a mile for every 1/4 mile pass with his mid to hi 8 sec tso car so we put an H&R bar on it and now his only complaint is that it is so boring because it always goes straight even when he blows away the tires. His best so far is low 8.5's at about 162 mph at Cecil Co Dragway last October (on GN1 heads). (Big thanks to Paul and Dave for the install between passes last year at Norwalk!)
 
I was just sitting here thinking about the forces put on a frame mounted sway bar under acceleration load. Would there be any advantage to where the mounting point of the sway bar link to the axle tube is attached? Using the forces put to the links by the twisting of the axle tube to add to the twisting force or take away from the twisting force. Could it create body lift or tuck depending on whether the link mounting point is forward of or behind the axle tube? What about putting the mounting point forward on one side and behind on the other?
 
Don,
With all due respect,I think you are over thinking this. The WOLFE bar works.Mine was installed and adjusted exactly as instructed by Wolfe. The HR bar works. Your car sure could use either. Too many winning cars use both.

There are 2 trains of thought on the Bushing style used in the Wolfe and that used on other bars with a roller bearings. The thought is weather right or wrong...that the aluminum bearing will take the load better than the roller bearing. Its alleged that the roller bearing is made to take its load spread out over the entire bearings not just one arc.

Ill tell you from experience, Neither Cal or I with Wolfe single bars have suffered from any failure of the bar, frame or axle housing. My wolfes been in the car over 3 years with no issues on the busings. Cal has 3 times the passes mine does with no issues on the bearings either. I dont think I have ever greased mine since install.

One thing I have learned over the years is that bracing should be done on the bar install like Cottons does on his installs. More bracing is always good.
 
Yeah, I have a bad habit of doing that. Thanks Louie for the advice. I understand the extra bracing completely. Good call.
 
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