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Any Advice installing Fuel Injectors ?

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84BuickGNYorkPA

Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
1,840
Hi Guys,

I'm ready to replace my stock injectors with PTE 50#'s. Is there any advice, seals, o-rings, special tools(I don't think so but since I never did this..)needed :confused: :confused: . I do know that the fuel line pressure has to be zero before I start. The wiring comes right off by pushing the clips into the injector then pull straight up. This is how far I got then I thought, I would get advice from my Buick family, before I get into this, it's always better that way. :) :wink:
Thanks again.

Chuck
 
Make sure the top of your engine is clean! No dirt on the O rings and a small amount of grease on the O rings. I found it easier to remove and install the whole fuel line and injectors as on unit. Not a bad job at all!
 
I keep a small trial size tube of vaseline in my tool box just for these special occasions! Removal is easy and straight forward. Make sure top of engine is clean as vader87 has recommended and make sure you take all of the nuts and bolts off the brackets. There's a couple that are hard to see and get to.
The retainer clips are coaxed off with the twist of a flat tip screwdriver (watch for flying clips) Other than that don't be afraid to give the rail a good yank when everything is loose as they sometime stick a little... Then do everything in reverse..

Oh yeah and btw, make sure you have a chip matched to those injectors or you'll also be changing your spark plus too!

good luck
 
Ok guys thanks, I do have a new Turbo Tweak chip. I'm going to start this in the morning before the boys wake up. So I'll hose the motor down tonight. Then first thing in the morning unhook the fuel supply line, wiring harness. Not sure about the vacuum block....maybe just unbolt it from the throttle body, intercooler up pipe, then look for them clips... to use the flat screw driver on....then go for the fuel rail mounting bolts. Does this sound right? I did notice that there are zip ties on the injectors at the very top... they are all loose, not sure what that's all about. Thanks again, I'm sure once I'm done this will be much easier the second time like everything else in life.
 
Just cut the zip ties. They just help route the wires and after all these years the wires stay right where they need to be anyway. The clips did not seem to do much on my injectors so I did not put them back on.

I don't think the vacuum block needs to come off. The return fuel line is one of the bigger problems with the job, often need to remove the regulator.

Already mentioned but it is worth saying again:
CLEAN - this makes any job go much easier.
The rail and injectors may reqiure a strong yank to pull free.

I like to ensure the injectors are snapped in and fully seated. They will spin in their bores freely when they are fully seated. Oh yeah, try to remember how the wires are run and how the injector plug ends are oriented before pulling it apart.

It is an easy job.
 
I pulled the vacuum block on mine and swapped it for a billet one. It was a good idea too because it allowed for changing all of those little , probably dry-rotted vacuum lines. If you really want to go crazy, order yourself an Angle Boss ($59)too for your IAC so that you can reach it! (I love mine so much I'm getting another for the "bucket". I ordered one a few weeks ago and the install required removal of the T/B (I took off the dog house too, just to make it easy.) -- just a thought...
 
Thanks everyone, I printed this out and I'm off to get busy on the car.
Chuck
 
It's done

Well all did not go well, the fuel return line twisted off.... on the disassembly. Now it looks like I'm up for a new or used fuel return line from the fuel injection rail to the rubber hose beside the driver's side A frame. And that looks like a pain in the ass to replace...

Chuck
 
oops

I believe that it is the fuel supply line because it's on the passengers side of the fuel rail, and the regulator is on the driver's side. Is that right? Also I was surprised that the injectors could spin when installed, I thought they would be tighter then that, also I had to be very careful when installing the unit. I found that I needed to first put the injector in the fuel rail, then carefully start all the bottoms into the holes. I did clean the bottom holes with rubbing alky and q-tips, it took awhile but I only want to do this once.... man I hope nothing leaks when I pressurize the system...
Chuck
 
Pressurize the system" - Did you get the broken like fixed?

The feed is the one on the right side - it is a bit bigger than the return line that comes out of the bottom of the regulator. And yeah they are a bit of a PITA. Got to take off some of the belt driven stuff to R&R the thing.

I think the rubber line is part of those lines and they attach to steel lines that slightly stick out of the frame. As old as those lines probably are, it is not such a bad thing to have to replace them.

I am considering replacing my entire fuel supply and return with AN and Braided - just one more issue with the lines and it will happen - almost 20 years old
 
I didn't get another fuel supply line yet to pressurize the system(start the car), I hope that I didn't screw anything up installing the new injectors(I had some trouble installing them and started over, and I'm glad I did because I had all of the top o-rings (these are at the top of the injectors and go into the fuel rail) torn. The first time I started all of the injectors into the intake manifold, then I figured I would let the fuel rail end (top) of the injectors, go into place by tighting the rail down onto the injectors. That's about the time I scratched my head and thought, I better pull this rail off again and have one more look at these new injectors and discovered the tears in the top o-ring :eek: :eek: I'm pretty sure that I'm ok now....after replacing all the o-rings, connecting the wiring harnesses, getting all of the injectors in the rail, they just hung there. (I found that a little turning action with the vasoline on the o-rings worked best.) Then I gently pushed them into place moving from the driver side to the passenger's side (over and over again) and pushing gently down on the fuel rail untill they where all in and the mounting flanges where laying on the intake manifold ready for the bolts to be installed. The other clips that where on my stock injectors I didn't install on these, I can't figure out what they do, maybe I'm not seeing something but I don't see how they will connect to the new injectors....sorry this is so long... just trying to help the next green horn out. :)
 
new ss fuel lines ordered

I had a offer to buy a used supply line from a fellow board member, but I decided to replace both supply and return lines with new stainless steel ones from Kirban's. Thanks to everyone, for your help/advice I appreciated it.
Chuck
 
Conclusion

Hey Guys,

The GN is running! I got the new fuel lines on, I had to drain the radiator and unhook the coolant lines at the front of the motor, pull the alternator, idler pulley.
But the fuel injectors have no leaks! And Turbo Tweaks new chip is just great, idles better then ever. The rjc fmic looks awesome and so far no issues with it. I did put a 160 deg. stat in it while I was right there, Auto Zone can get them, but that's the only place besides the internet that I found.
So I'm glad that I got into them fuel lines because the o-rings that where there where rotted and some where half gone :eek: , FYI.
I just have the boost set at 18# (still setting it up) and I can't believe how well the car is running, awesome compared to my old hot air motor :)
Chuck
 
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