Any good hyd roller lifters other than clicky Comps?
- Thread starter SPOOLFOOL2
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
comp cam hyd lifters suck I put...
plain no roller hyd lifters on mine from comp and they suck so bad it sounds like sh*^it will be the 3rd time replacing them in less than a month no more im going with the best and I hope somone has the answer. comp cams can suck it!!!!
plain no roller hyd lifters on mine from comp and they suck so bad it sounds like sh*^it will be the 3rd time replacing them in less than a month no more im going with the best and I hope somone has the answer. comp cams can suck it!!!!
hemi8
Goin Sideways
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2001
2 months later, I got it started today, whisper, whisper quiet. I also replaced the scorpion stud mounted rollers with T&D shaft mounted rollers. My experience fitting these roller rockers with early GN1's for stage 2 block:
- Don't install T&D's onto GN1 heads unless you have the heads off or are planning to pull them off as the pushrod holes will need to be enlarged.
- Take the little tool T&D puts in their kit which is used to set the shaft height and drop-kick it in the trash.
- The bolts T&D supplies to attach the shafts are too long, tighten them before shortening them and you will rip the threads out of the heads.
- Install Comp Cams light checking springs in place of #1 valve springs.
- Place a couple of shims under the shafts, use a sharpee to mark the top of the valve, put the #1 intake valve on its base circle, install an adjustable pushrod. Take the slack out by rotating the pushrod, when all slack is taken out you are good. Now rotate the engine a couple of times. Remove the rocker and check the pattern on the valve. If the pattern it is not in the dead center of the valve, raise or lower the shaft with shims as this determines where on the valve it will push down (ie: geometry). The T&D calculations and that tool are BS, you must check your geometry. Once that perfect geometry is found verify all valves are at the same height and that both heads read the same. Check the exhaust valve also.
- Measure the pushrod, add .035 to the measurement and call Trend pushrods and order 5/16" diameter with a 210 degree cut on one end and you are good to go.
- Be careful with the rocker adjustment screws, cannot turn it more than 1 turn from factory setting.
- When pre-oiling verify every rocker has oil pouring out over each valve.
Shaft height determines geometry, raise or lower it to center the roller over the dead center of the valve (sharpee method). Screw on the rocker is only for setting pre-load, do not use it to make up for pushrods that are to short or too long. Do not just set the shaft height according to T&D's instructions and roll with it, you must check the action on the valve. Going by the tool my shaft height setting was .050 too tall.
- Anymore than 0.010" clearence between the head pushrod hole and the pushrod is wasted effort according to Manton Pushrod company.
- If I had to do it again I would not torque those 7/16" ARP bolts to the heads, I would set everything up and get it right then determine what stud length would work, torqueing bolts into aluminum heads is a disaster waiting to happen, studs are much safer.
- The part that the shafts bolt to has play in it due to the bolts that hold it down. I had to bias mine toward the intake as far as I could push it.
- Install RJC spacers, clearence as necessary with die grinder to clear pushrods. I had to use these to get the valvecovers high enough to avoid hitting the pushrods.
It was a hell of alot of work but damn is sounds like a nice and quiet stock engine.
Mike
- Don't install T&D's onto GN1 heads unless you have the heads off or are planning to pull them off as the pushrod holes will need to be enlarged.
- Take the little tool T&D puts in their kit which is used to set the shaft height and drop-kick it in the trash.
- The bolts T&D supplies to attach the shafts are too long, tighten them before shortening them and you will rip the threads out of the heads.
- Install Comp Cams light checking springs in place of #1 valve springs.
- Place a couple of shims under the shafts, use a sharpee to mark the top of the valve, put the #1 intake valve on its base circle, install an adjustable pushrod. Take the slack out by rotating the pushrod, when all slack is taken out you are good. Now rotate the engine a couple of times. Remove the rocker and check the pattern on the valve. If the pattern it is not in the dead center of the valve, raise or lower the shaft with shims as this determines where on the valve it will push down (ie: geometry). The T&D calculations and that tool are BS, you must check your geometry. Once that perfect geometry is found verify all valves are at the same height and that both heads read the same. Check the exhaust valve also.
- Measure the pushrod, add .035 to the measurement and call Trend pushrods and order 5/16" diameter with a 210 degree cut on one end and you are good to go.
- Be careful with the rocker adjustment screws, cannot turn it more than 1 turn from factory setting.
- When pre-oiling verify every rocker has oil pouring out over each valve.
Shaft height determines geometry, raise or lower it to center the roller over the dead center of the valve (sharpee method). Screw on the rocker is only for setting pre-load, do not use it to make up for pushrods that are to short or too long. Do not just set the shaft height according to T&D's instructions and roll with it, you must check the action on the valve. Going by the tool my shaft height setting was .050 too tall.
- Anymore than 0.010" clearence between the head pushrod hole and the pushrod is wasted effort according to Manton Pushrod company.
- If I had to do it again I would not torque those 7/16" ARP bolts to the heads, I would set everything up and get it right then determine what stud length would work, torqueing bolts into aluminum heads is a disaster waiting to happen, studs are much safer.
- The part that the shafts bolt to has play in it due to the bolts that hold it down. I had to bias mine toward the intake as far as I could push it.
- Install RJC spacers, clearence as necessary with die grinder to clear pushrods. I had to use these to get the valvecovers high enough to avoid hitting the pushrods.
It was a hell of alot of work but damn is sounds like a nice and quiet stock engine.
Mike
noisy lifters
hello im having same problems new motor comp 214 ,t&d rockers,ported irons changed the 853's for 855's lifters no help sounds like just one or two rockers are loose most noise coming from #6 just wandered if everybody else is simular or all of them are noisey,mine is quiet ideling ,but touch the gas and tap-tap-tap-tap driving me crazy.
hello im having same problems new motor comp 214 ,t&d rockers,ported irons changed the 853's for 855's lifters no help sounds like just one or two rockers are loose most noise coming from #6 just wandered if everybody else is simular or all of them are noisey,mine is quiet ideling ,but touch the gas and tap-tap-tap-tap driving me crazy.
From Mike's post #81...
*Lifter preload as per Morel.
Iron block/iron heads =.025"
Iron block/alum heads =.035"
Alum block/alum heads=.045"
Why would the pre-load of the lifter vary with material of block or head??
What preload are you guys with iron block/iron heads using??
Thanks, Bob
*Lifter preload as per Morel.
Iron block/iron heads =.025"
Iron block/alum heads =.035"
Alum block/alum heads=.045"
Why would the pre-load of the lifter vary with material of block or head??
What preload are you guys with iron block/iron heads using??
Thanks, Bob
I am assumeing that it is because of the different expansion rates of alum vs iron
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
BINGO!
MHO "Get Rid Of Those CC Lifters and Cam" Both are a POS! My experiences that cost me two upper tear downs, noisey, chrome flacking off the lifter rollers, ruining my cam lobes and the Great Customer Service of CC. (5 mo of waiting and only after sicking on them with several other Buick People did they help me) These are my experiences and I won't ever buy their products again. Sorry to Flame but it cost me a lot of money and time to try and fix the problems, never were fixed, just sold the car. Other products are available like suggested on this posting subject and they would be my choice. Good Luck on Your Project. Gene
Nitroholickid
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2009
bookmarked. great discussions..
Ok have now installed them on 2 cars
1. A stroked, Alum heads, car had comp 855 and the noise has gone down bout 50%....love them... If from what else I read if I get rid of the scorpion rockers i have on there now and put on some TDs it would be wisper quiet.
2. All Iron block and heads had a set of comps in there, they were loud enough to set off the knock sensor not to mention anoying, but now the car souds GREAT!!! It has been a long time since i have listed to a stock car but man this thing is quiet now.
if these new lifter hold up to the test of time( im sure they will) all I can say is WOW what a difference and so much cheaper. I want to thank all who were involved in getting these things devoleped for the buicks!!!!
1. A stroked, Alum heads, car had comp 855 and the noise has gone down bout 50%....love them... If from what else I read if I get rid of the scorpion rockers i have on there now and put on some TDs it would be wisper quiet.
2. All Iron block and heads had a set of comps in there, they were loud enough to set off the knock sensor not to mention anoying, but now the car souds GREAT!!! It has been a long time since i have listed to a stock car but man this thing is quiet now.
if these new lifter hold up to the test of time( im sure they will) all I can say is WOW what a difference and so much cheaper. I want to thank all who were involved in getting these things devoleped for the buicks!!!!
OneQuikSix
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2001
I've been chasing down some strange knock retard issues on my car lately and after reading this, I'm wondering if my hyd roller lifters may be the problem. I'm getting knock retard on my powerlogger under normal driving conditions, in the driveway, 0psi boost, etc. However, I can build at least 20 psi with no knock at all. I just put this engine in the car about 500 miles ago. In the mornings, the car sounds really healthy until I start to accelerate out of my neighborhood. Then it sounds like a light tapping which persists until the engine gets warmed up. Even after I'm up to operating temperature, the car has really strange knock retard while cruising around under very light throttle. So far, I've eliminated all the ignition and electrical stuff I can think of. The car runs really good otherwise. I'm just concerned because of what the powerlogger is telling me. Are these symptoms typical of what people were experiencing with the Comp lifters? I'm thinking of checking the preload tonight now that I have a few hundred miles on the new motor.
chrisgarrett
Registered Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2004
never mind
OneQuikSix
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2001
I just ordered a set of lifters from TA Performance today. Hopefully, they will eliminate my random knock issue while driving around town. I'll keep everyone posted when the deed is done!
OneQuikSix
Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2001
I just finished the swap and I feel these lifters are much more quiet than the Comp Cams lifters that came with my 210/215 cam kit. In case anyone else wants to know, with the components in my sig, I had to buy 8.000" pushrods to get everything perfect. My old pushrods were 8.225". I'm going to put a few miles on them before I get into the boost.
Dr.drivability
9 second wannabee
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2005
Had the rollers flake on mine and they sent new ones. Funny thing is, they said they never heard of this before!!!!
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
Yep!
That's what Comp told me too.
And two other people I know.
Sounds like they've got quality AND memory problems.:biggrin:
That's what Comp told me too.
And two other people I know.
Sounds like they've got quality AND memory problems.:biggrin: