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Anyone full float the stock rods?

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NCTURBOS

Gettin' back in action!!
Staff member
Joined
May 26, 2001
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As the topic... Anyone full float the stock rods?? Pros/Cons?


K.
 
I have years ago. The bushings have limited life and the stock rod isnt a piece that is worth spending extra on. If you have a good piston and a good tune you shouldnt have problems grabbing the pins anyway. For a serious race only engine that is making 150+hp per hole its probably worth it but then you wouldnt be using stock rods anyway.
 
I have years ago. The bushings have limited life and the stock rod isnt a piece that is worth spending extra on. If you have a good piston and a good tune you shouldnt have problems grabbing the pins anyway. For a serious race only engine that is making 150+hp per hole its probably worth it but then you wouldnt be using stock rods anyway.

+1
 
I did some years ago and have had the same stock rods that are polished and shot peened in 2 engines. I have had these same rods rebushed once and thev'e been reconed twice. I have around 40,000 miles on them and MANY MANY 10 sec. passes. They are still in and still running. Did they make any difference in HP ?? I dought it.
 
Better choice would be a set of K1 rods. MUCH stronger, and affordable.

Buy ARP bolts, polish the beams, shot peen them, resize them, bush the small end, and you still have a stock rod that is inferior to an out of the box K1 rod.
 
Mine are full floating too. I had them done at work when I had the engine done at no extra cost. 20k on them with no issues. Did I gain from it? I Doubt it. But it was convenient to install the pistons.
 
When they say to "bush" the small end what does that mean exactly?? Thanks!

The rod is bored on the small end and a bronze bushing is installed in it and honed to size. You can slighlty alter the length of the rod by doing this to achieve better quench and you avoid the chance of a piston grabbing the pin and ripping out the bottom of the piston since the pin is floating in both wrist pin bores.
 
The rod is bored on the small end and a bronze bushing is installed in it and honed to size. You can slighlty alter the length of the rod by doing this to achieve better quench and you avoid the chance of a piston grabbing the pin and ripping out the bottom of the piston since the pin is floating in both wrist pin bores.

And to add the that, the piston MUST have some sort of pin retention device, such as Spirolocks, ect. You can't use TRW or stock pistons with full floating pins (bushed rods)
 
Better choice would be a set of K1 rods. MUCH stronger, and affordable.

Buy ARP bolts, polish the beams, shot peen them, resize them, bush the small end, and you still have a stock rod that is inferior to an out of the box K1 rod.

I agree. You will have just about as much in the stocks and they will still not be as strong.
 
I had some floated for some .927 pinned pistons years ago. Reason for the rebuild was a previous pressed pin came out and took out a cylinder. Lean out induced detonation does bad things even to N/A engines. The cheap aftermarket rods weren't available yet. GB
 
And to add the that, the piston MUST have some sort of pin retention device, such as Spirolocks, ect. You can't use TRW or stock pistons with full floating pins (bushed rods)
This is correct. I always assume everyone already has a set of high performance pistons. Silly me:rolleyes:
 
H-ll I did my own polishing and spent $25 getting them shot peened here in town. My machinist (Kevin Timoney) and a damned good one only charged me like $75 to magnaflux, bush and recon them. Yes I agree with Ken that the K1's are alot better rod but I only turn a max of 5400 to 5500 and so far lots of abuse and still fine. I do have a set of K1's going in my new bullet or should I say TIME BOMB !!!
 
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