Anyone used a Cyberdyne fp gauge that was accurrate?

[2QUIK6]

Mine's about 11 lbs off, and they had me try 10 different ways of grounding it with no change. Waiting for an engineer to call me back but was wondering if I'm wasting my time with it and should go another route. Was thinking of getting the manual in-cab one from autometer, but don't find it on their web-site, and I heard it had too many problems, so now I guess its the $190 Autometer electric...

 

[Turbo T/A 1543]

Not too impressed with the ones I purchased. My F.P. gauge is off by 9 lbs. and boost gauge won't register beyond 13 P.S.I. In all fairness, they did offer to recalibrate them if I send them back to them, which I will do over the winter, but they are so far 2 for 2 (being inaccurate). Kind of a b!tch when you are using the gauge to help set up the car and find out it's THAT far off though.

 

[1320]

I took a set out after I ran the car out of fuel (had some in the trunk) and the gauge still read 48psi........

I one saw a -1 on the oil pressure too! The engine was fine and in good shape.

 

[turbofrank]

My fp gauge is 5lbs off i just live with it. Had 2 others before different brands same thing. My water and boost gauge are also
off VDO.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Alot of things I noticed about cyberdyne is you need a GREAT ground, not a good one. I ran my grounds directly to the battery. With very nice accuracy especially temps! also, the fuel pressure sender needs to be grounded. to me the screw in fitting just isnt good enough, I would get a o ring or something that connects a ground to the sending unit directly from the battery. Just my 2 cents.

Scott

 

[Roger]

Mine appears to be within 2 lbs, but on the street during a short blast, I find it to be a little slow in catching up. It seems to work ok during a steady boost, but will often read about 4-5lbs low on a quick short WOT blast.

Grounds are important & I had to replace all the cheap wire connectors with aircraft quality wire connectors.

 

[2QUIK6]

I ran grounds directly to the battery for both the gauge and the sender with no splices except one on the gauge, even ran multiple grounds to body, block and battery...same result.

I've removed the gauge and the sender and sending them back now and will try the $190 Autometer one now.

Why is it so hard to make an electric fp gauge that works, all the other electric gauges work fine.....