anything to add? or take off?

[Cleaner13]

ok guys this is a combo I plan I using after I get the spring cleaning finished off

is there anything I should add or take off of this list
I am looking for a fast street car (nothing rediculous) I dont want to buy a new turbo, no engine work, and I do not want to run race fuel since I am not blessed financially (IM only 19)

big mouth air intake

the walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit

Kirbans fuel pressure regulator

air bags, pinion snubber, air bag spacers, sway bar

ATR 3" downpipe

hooker exhaust

thrasher 92 chip

scan tool (obviously)

RJC power plate

"parts I am thinking about"

headers

70MM plenum

alum driveshaft

thanks alot guys your always a big help

Carl

 

[Cleaner13]

dont know if it makes a huge difference but I forgot to mention a 160* thermostat

 

[dconnor]

your basic list looks pretty good, here is what I would change:

downpipe:

Terry Houston or Mease Performance, the ATR stuff has a history of sticking wastegate pucks


Adj fuel pressure regulator:

Check out the billet rebuildable unit from CAS or Accufab

Pinion snubber:

forget about it & do the s10 brake pistons and a control arm boxing kit from HRPartNStuff instead

Add a Thrasher 100 chip and run a xylene homebrew when ready for some street or track action, my car ran solid mid 12's with a similar combo.

Be sure to get yourself a good set of guages:

30/30 boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure & knock are what I consider essential.

As for the maybe stuff on your list

headers: unless your stockers are in terrible shape you don't NEED headers until deep into the 10's. Whatever you decide, STAY AWAY from the Hooker headers!!! Their long tube design promotes a ton of lag in anything slower than low 11's!

70mm plenum: again not needed just go with one of Jay Jackson's ported stock units and a power plate & you'll be set

Alummy driveshaft: unless your stocker is in bad shape not needed so spend the ~$350 on an alky system & have your car ready for action at all times.

Doug C.

 

[John Larkin]

Forget the "thinking about" parts and pinion snubber. Spend it on good rear suspension arms or have yours boxed (cheaper).

 

[86gn]

Originally posted by dconnor
your basic list looks pretty good, here is what I would change:

downpipe:

Terry Houston or Mease Performance, the ATR stuff has a history of sticking wastegate pucks


Adj fuel pressure regulator:

Check out the billet rebuildable unit from CAS or Accufab

Pinion snubber:

forget about it & do the s10 brake pistons and a control arm boxing kit from HRPartNStuff instead

Add a Thrasher 100 chip and run a xylene homebrew when ready for some street or track action, my car ran solid mid 12's with a similar combo.

Be sure to get yourself a good set of guages:

30/30 boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure & knock are what I consider essential.

As for the maybe stuff on your list

headers: unless your stockers are in terrible shape you don't NEED headers until deep into the 10's. Whatever you decide, STAY AWAY from the Hooker headers!!! Their long tube design promotes a ton of lag in anything slower than low 11's!

70mm plenum: again not needed just go with one of Jay Jackson's ported stock units and a power plate & you'll be set

Alummy driveshaft: unless your stocker is in bad shape not needed so spend the ~$350 on an alky system & have your car ready for action at all times.

Doug C.

I AGREE!!!!!! the alky is a must to turn up the boost ,assuming you have a adjustable wastegate.

 

[c&cgn]

Originally posted by John Larkin
Forget the "thinking about" parts and pinion snubber. Spend it on good rear suspension arms or have yours boxed (cheaper).

Agreed. Also forget about the air bag spacers. You probably won't need the ATR swaybar but it will make somewhat of a difference. Do the lower body bushings and GNX bushing as well as all of the front braces.

Also, go with a Terry Houston downpipe, or if you are on a tight budget go with a Kirban type downpipe with a ported elbow, it is alot cheaper. I ran this into the 11.7's and probably could've gotten more out of it.

 

[TTA89]

Originally posted by Cleaner13

big mouth air intake

Not worth your money

the walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit

Kirbans fuel pressure regulator

Sounds good

air bags, pinion snubber, air bag spacers, sway bar

I dont have a buick but I know alot of fast cars that run just an airbag. Since your not going to run racegas and will have a 13 second car, why waste your money??

ATR 3" downpipe

Save your money, Your stock downpipe WILL NOT be a restriction till your into the 11s and again since your not running racegas you will have a 13 second car so save your money.

hooker exhaust

You need some kind of exhaust, the stock one is horrible so go for it.

thrasher 92 chip

I love that chip but you have to tune the car to make it work. If your planning on setting the boost at 17bs and thats it then you might want to look into another chip with more timing. I was able to run 19-20psi with the Thrasher chip and no knock on 94 octane. It made more power (track tested) than a Reds 93 at 17 psi. The reds had more timing and I could only run 17-17.5 psi before it started knocking. So like I said, If your planning to run 17psi get something with more timing. More Boost and lower timing will make more power than high timing and low boost.

scan tool (obviously)

Get a Scanmaster, that way you can always look at whats going on. No need for Turbolink or Directscan since it sounds like your not really going to be racing.

RJC power plate

Never tried it, its like 65 bucks right? Make your own decison...

"parts I am thinking about"

headers

70MM plenum

alum driveshaft

Thats all a big complete waste of money there...

Things you should add to your list.

Valve Springs
Boost Gauge
Nitto Drag Radials

Don't forget to do a spring cleaning.

thanks alot guys your always a big help

Carl

No Problem

 

[86brick]

Locking up the stock D5 converter with a lock up switch will also make a difference and it's cheap. I saw 2 tenths and 2 mph gains with just this simple cheap little mod. Also, the bigger Duttweiler modified neck for the stock intercooler Poston sells for $75 is a nice cheap mod which could give you about 20hp (about 2 tenths and 2 mph). If you don't want to run race gas and want to see 12's the SMC alky kit is a must and it's only about $320. With 15-17lbs of boost with the stock turbo you will probably be running mid to low 13's at best if the car is in good running condition. Definately make sure you change the valve springs like TTA89 mentioned! If you don't buy the alky kit spending $60 for some race gas will be the best and cheapest mod

 

[Cleaner13]

ok this is just a for instance

but say I upgraded the turbo
would it be possible to see 12s without the race fuel?

also what turbo should I go with?
thanks again guys

Carl

 

[salvageV6]

Alky. Kit, Duttweiler neck or a V4, and sticky tires!

Crank the boost on pump gas with alky.! Can you drive? That will determine your track times the most in MHO.


At the track or on the way up throw in some Sunoco GT100 unleaded for safety and kill the cat. and get a good exhaust.

Just my .02 it ain't all that easy I learned but damm it sure was fun!

 

[TTA89]

Originally posted by Cleaner13
ok this is just a for instance

but say I upgraded the turbo
would it be possible to see 12s without the race fuel?

also what turbo should I go with?
thanks again guys

Carl

When you upgrade the turbo you generally dont see that big of a difference in power till you reach the 20psi mark and your not going to get there without racegas.

Running these cars on pumpgas is like running a V8 car with 2 plug wires removed. They don't run on pumpgas!!!

If you dont want to run racegas or alky you might want to think about selling the car and getting something that runs on pumpgas. You'll probably go faster than you will in a buick on pumpgas.