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ARP head bolts or studs ?

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Bolts. Studs are a pain, especially with header clearance. I'll save you the grief.

Understand you have stock pistons, your relief valve went.. HG's are easier to replace than pistons. This is why you cant go too crazy with clamping force.

The next question will be 6 point or 12 point heads :D

Another option is GM probably still has TTYL bolts in stock for the TTA..
 
12 points are easier to "get on" in tight spots :cool: BUT as Julio said .. GM stock bolts work good to.(we ran stockers down to the low 11s) Love the stock "junk" :p . although many will say they suck :eek: so this is as clear as mud right :wink:
 
Bolts!!!

make life a lot easier, pull the engine and work on a stand.

and then you can really clean the engine bay!!

give a call sometime,sorry to hear it blew, but take your time and it will be worth IT!!!

JD
 
Found this for those that want to know the difference betweeen using studs vs head bolts.


HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION, Thanks ARP-bolts.com

ARP’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading.

Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.​

using bolts for my application for now...
 
Now where can I get ARP 12 point head bolts individualy...only seem to be able to find kits and none for the TTA. Do I need to go directly through ARP or can I get them from Summit for example?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Now where can I get ARP 12 point head bolts individualy...only seem to be able to find kits and none for the TTA. Do I need to go directly through ARP or can I get them from Summit for example?

Thanks,
Scott

Scott, there is no kit so you need to get them individually. If you do a search I posted the length you would need to order.

Also get the correct washers for them

The when you got them do a test install with a head gasket and install the headers and you will see where you have to notch them slightly as they will ride on the bolt heads (at least with the regular hex head bolts not sure about the 12 points). Some people installed them without the washers and that works without notching the header flanges but I prefer using the washers for accurate torque readings.

And Hillco (http://www.hillcofasteners.com/) can get any ARP fasteners you need .... talk to Ryan and say hi from me and he will sort you out ... and while you are on their website see if you can spot a familiar face on their testimonials page http://www.hillcofasteners.com/articles/?catid=3 :-)
 
Scott, there is no kit so you need to get them individually. If you do a search I posted the length you would need to order.

Thanks Jan...oh yeah, look closely at post #5 in this thread ;) For that kind of stuff I usually just do a search on your name 1st...lots of good info there for sure :cool:

Scott
 
Ok, just got off the phone with ARP on my head bolts...i can get 12-point regular or low profile heads and "Hi-Perf" (180 tensile strength) or "Pro" (200 tensile strength) series.

According to Jan Larson's notes:

I need 7/16-14 bolts...
8 @ 2.375"
4 @ 3.500"
4 @ 4.500"

I'm at work so I can't look at the heads...which ones interfere with the header flange ? These would probably be a good candidate for the low profile 12-point heads I would think...

Also should I get the Hi-Perf or the Pro series?

Thanks,
Scott
 
use bolts. If you use washers on the bottom bolts the head of the bolt will hit the header flange, so a lot of people don't put the washer on the bottom ones.
 
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