At Home Performance Suggestions

[turbojoe1]

I did a quick search and came up with this....http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/aluminum.316238/#post-2474424

I take it the stocks are steel.
I am very well interesting in shedding some weight, since all the frame bracing, solid arms and such will add up.

 

[turbojoe1]

The car has 2" drop spindles, and 2" springs in the back. I forgot to mention this. I hope this wont creat any clearance issues.

 

[GNRick]

Some even use aluminum rear drums. Not sure where they buy them from. Maybe they were stock on other G bodies?

 

[earlbrown]

The alum drums come out of the scrapyard as they've been discontinued for many years. The flange is twice as thick as the iron drums so they offer a little bit more tire-to-frame clearance. And, yes, the stock wheels are steel and very heavy.

 

[turbojoe1]

This is a WE4 car, so it came with the aluminum rear drums, bumper and wheels. I'm pretty happy with this score. Though I will be upgrading the braking system, so mine as well get rear discs while I'm at it.

 

[jlat]

hello; I saw you're interested in weight saving. And we all know a lighter car will be faster with the same equipment. search 36 mm sway bar I started and in it a member O SO LO posted a link on weight saving. ch. it out.
have fun
IBBY

 

[turbojoe1]

hello; I saw you're interested in weight saving. And we all know a lighter car will be faster with the same equipment. search 36 mm sway bar I started and in it a member O SO LO posted a link on weight saving. ch. it out.
have fun
IBBY

Wow, I added all that up, then a few more additions, my calculator is showing me a drop of 448lbs, from a stock GN with all the steel.

 

[turbojoe1]

So I just realized what FT cam is. Lol, is there a updated modern grind that is common. I know I don't need anything big. Just curious if there is an all around improved FT cam commonly used?


Thanks Joe

 

[we4Mateo]

So I just realized what FT cam is. Lol, is there a updated modern grind that is common. I know I don't need anything big. Just curious if there is an all around improved FT cam commonly used?


Thanks Joe

I use an Erson 208/208 b/c it has lazy ramps that are good for longevity. Use ZDDP or a heavy Zinc oil with a FT cam. Not many vendors sell them yet, none stock them so there will be a wait while it's ground; most vendors/builders recommend a roller, but that's big $ in comparison. I'll get flamed for saying it but I like my FT cam. As long as you aren't going max effort with your valve spring pressures, they last just fine and are quieter than a roller setup.

 

[turbojoe1]

I use an Erson 208/208 b/c it has lazy ramps that are good for longevity. Use ZDDP or a heavy Zinc oil with a FT cam. Not many vendors sell them yet, none stock them so there will be a wait while it's ground; most vendors/builders recommend a roller, but that's big $ in comparison. I'll get flamed for saying it but I like my FT cam. As long as you aren't going max effort with your valve spring pressures, they last just fine and are quieter than a roller setup.

I'm gonna look into it, don't turbo motors like lazy cam/slow closing events, wide LSA?

 

[we4Mateo]

I'm gonna look into it, don't turbo motors like lazy cam/slow closing events, wide LSA?

Depends. I think mine is a 108 lsa and I'm going to a 110 lsa next. 114 is pushing limits at cruise I guess, so timing needs to be lowered, but makes a wide powerband. 110 to 112 seems to be most common on street cars that actually get driven a lot.

 

[turbojoe1]

Well what LSA is the stock ground on? Besides it being tiny and having short lift, I'm just wondering if I actually put some elbow grease into the heads, the stock FT cam may fall short of my expectations.

 

[we4Mateo]

Well what LSA is the stock ground on? Besides it being tiny and having short lift, I'm just wondering if I actually put some elbow grease into the heads, the stock FT cam may fall short of my expectations.

You got me there. I think it's a 190ish lift and 200 lsa? Someone who knows will state. I'll check vortex buicks.

 

[turbojoe1]

Well, what haver you done to your heads? Why the cam swap?

Thanks Joe

 

[we4Mateo]

Well, what haver you done to your heads? Why the cam swap?

Thanks Joe

I just did the cam swap because, at the time, I wasn't planning on pulling the heads. We took the motor out to do the cam swap, it's easier out of the car but not needed, and dropped the pan in the process to see a LOT of bearing material from a pre-ignition event I had 2k miles earlier. We slapped it back together quickly though after getting my rods straightened so we just port matched the intake ports so there was no step into the port from the intake and touched up the exhaust ports and that was it. I picked up 8-9 mph just from that work so it wasn't all cam, but we really didn't touch the heads much. The new heads for my new build will flow much better, hopefully close to a good set of champs. Just doing basic bowl work, unshrouding the valves a bit, and cleaning up the chambers. I'm not even removing much guide material; just some shaping.

 

[turbojoe1]

Very nice mph pick up, IMO that type of cleanup is standard procedure, or should be. I think along with that, some of the old school tricks still apply, like a small compression bump and shrinking the quench area.

 

[turbojoe1]

Valve body/ Billet TC or other suggestions?

 

[turbojoe1]

I'm gonna look into it, don't turbo motors like lazy cam/slow closing events, wide LSA?

Ok, this is the cam I was referring to as common modern upgrade. Already had it saved.

Thanks Joe