ATR bar
- Thread starter Fuelie600
- Start date
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I have the ATR bar on my car with boxed lower arms and reinforcement bushings in the arms themselves. I've never used the HR parts bar, but am VERY happy with what I have now.
I no longer need to use my airbags to equalize traction, and the car launches straight. It is also MUCH stiffer handling in the back, and taking off ramps is enjoyable now! The fit was great, though I did replace the bolts that came with the bar with better bolts I bought at Home Depot, along with bigger washers, etc..
The bar just looks intimidating like you mean business, and anyone you run over is SURE to notice it!
Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
I no longer need to use my airbags to equalize traction, and the car launches straight. It is also MUCH stiffer handling in the back, and taking off ramps is enjoyable now! The fit was great, though I did replace the bolts that came with the bar with better bolts I bought at Home Depot, along with bigger washers, etc..
The bar just looks intimidating like you mean business, and anyone you run over is SURE to notice it!
Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
Robert Walton
Proud to be an Infidel
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
- Messages
- 147
Ditto for me too. The handling tightened up considerably. I also replaced the bolts with some longer ones. I do have Southside lower control arms so that may be the reason for the longer bolts. If I had a spare $ 500 laying around I probably would have gone with the HRParts bar. For the $ 140 or so the ATR is the best bang.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,993
I have both bars one on my GN one on my WE4.
Same 60ft.s with my Hoosier QTP's on both cars.
Prolly the driver.
Handling is a bit better with the HR bar for street driving but the ATR bar is on salvageV6 the WE4 and that giant iron bar is holding the whole back half of the car together nicely.
I like them both.
Both have upgraded lowers, HR box kit on the WE4 and HR lower arms and the upper HR arms on the GN.
Nice complete package from Paul on the GN which also has the Baer braking system front and rear, nice driver setup.
Real fast cars seem to do real well with the HR setup for straight level launching when making a lot of power and using transbrakes.
Both my cars launch level anyway in the upper 11 second bracket.
Same 60ft.s with my Hoosier QTP's on both cars.
Prolly the driver.
Handling is a bit better with the HR bar for street driving but the ATR bar is on salvageV6 the WE4 and that giant iron bar is holding the whole back half of the car together nicely.
I like them both.
Both have upgraded lowers, HR box kit on the WE4 and HR lower arms and the upper HR arms on the GN.
Nice complete package from Paul on the GN which also has the Baer braking system front and rear, nice driver setup.
Real fast cars seem to do real well with the HR setup for straight level launching when making a lot of power and using transbrakes.
Both my cars launch level anyway in the upper 11 second bracket.
I paid 100 bucks for my ATR bar and 89 for the UMI lowers.
Together they transformed the back of my car into a very tight setup. I am happy with it for the street driving I do. I don't go to the track often so no help there.
To be honest, the reason I even bought the bar in the first place is for the looks. That thing catches a lot of people's eyes
I think the look of the ATR bar is the same when viewed from behind so that would have worked for me too.... I just got a great deal on a new ATR bar.
Together they transformed the back of my car into a very tight setup. I am happy with it for the street driving I do. I don't go to the track often so no help there.
To be honest, the reason I even bought the bar in the first place is for the looks. That thing catches a lot of people's eyes
I think the look of the ATR bar is the same when viewed from behind so that would have worked for me too.... I just got a great deal on a new ATR bar.
$100----where did you buy from. I see Bruce has them for $150 on sale. That is $325 less than the HRParts bar, which I want to buy, so this was the reason for my post. My GN is a low 10's car and to this point, all I have done is air bags and some QA1's up front. It leaves real twisty and I want to correct that. Sounds like the ATR bar will straighten that out, so now I wonder if I need the HRParts set up. $325 will almost buy a 54 gal. drum of VP C16. Any more feed back guy's. Brian
My way of looking at it is that at your level (low 10 seconds), you are no doubt used to working on the car anyways, probably not lying down on a cold street outside in the rain, in an apartment complex, with a borrowed socket set, and jack stands made out of a cinder block....
. I would just buy the ATR bar, since it is so much cheaper - it's only 4 bolts to hook it up, try it out. If it doesn't work that well for you, and doesn't straighten you out, you can easily sell it to someone else for about what you paid for it, and you haven't lost much time or money seeing if it works. Then go buy the HR bar.
Just my view
Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
. I would just buy the ATR bar, since it is so much cheaper - it's only 4 bolts to hook it up, try it out. If it doesn't work that well for you, and doesn't straighten you out, you can easily sell it to someone else for about what you paid for it, and you haven't lost much time or money seeing if it works. Then go buy the HR bar.
Just my view
Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
Cheapest I can find is $150 through Bruce @ Aggressive Perf..
I was just going through some things in my basement, and ran across a "Rancho Suspension's" rear bar that I forgot I had on the car back in 86-87-88. This thing is set up exactly like the HRParts bar, ie. axle mounted, end links mounted to body and so forth. It measures 7/8" in diameter and is a solid bar. Could anyone give me the diameter of the HRP bar for comparison?, and does anyone know the weights on the ATR and HRParts pieces? Thanks Brian
I was just going through some things in my basement, and ran across a "Rancho Suspension's" rear bar that I forgot I had on the car back in 86-87-88. This thing is set up exactly like the HRParts bar, ie. axle mounted, end links mounted to body and so forth. It measures 7/8" in diameter and is a solid bar. Could anyone give me the diameter of the HRP bar for comparison?, and does anyone know the weights on the ATR and HRParts pieces? Thanks Brian
It depends on what you are tying to do. The ATR bar is a good choice for an all around bar. It's not adjustable but its cheep. It will help launch your car more level at the track.
The HRP bar is all the above but is adjustable but is still a bolt on.
There are some other adjustable bars (Compition Engineering, Wolf) that fall in the middle price wise that are adjustable but are not bolt ons.
The adjustable bars are better suited for the track.
The HRP bar is all the above but is adjustable but is still a bolt on.
There are some other adjustable bars (Compition Engineering, Wolf) that fall in the middle price wise that are adjustable but are not bolt ons.
The adjustable bars are better suited for the track.
This Rancho bar is adjustable. Used to have my GN set up for road running and had these adjustable front and back bars. Just trying to determine if the Rancho bar is close to the HR bar in weight and set up. does anyone have the weight of the HRParts bar. I found the ATR bar to be 29 lbs. Thanks Brian
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
- Messages
- 4,157
I have the ATR sway bar on my car. I get consistant 1.48 sixty foots with mine off the footbrake and it launches straight. I will however be selling it possibily in the next 2 months because I have got a Wolfe racecraft sway bar.
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
- Messages
- 4,157
I have run mid tens @ 128mph with tranny problems. Will definately do better now that the problem has been fixed. I run a 28 x 10.5 MT slick with a bone stock rearend and 3.90 gears.
Fuelie600,
I use southside lowers, Jegs adjustable uppers set at 2 deg's down on the pinion and one turn preload on the right side, Compition Engineering adj. shocks and their adjustable sway bar. I mounted it through the frame rails behind the axle so the arms point foward. There is also some preload on the right side of the swaybar. I have a 3" dual exhaust so that was the only to make it all work. I usally 60' in the low 1.4's with a best of a 1.40. If you want I can attatch a photo so you can see how it works.
I use southside lowers, Jegs adjustable uppers set at 2 deg's down on the pinion and one turn preload on the right side, Compition Engineering adj. shocks and their adjustable sway bar. I mounted it through the frame rails behind the axle so the arms point foward. There is also some preload on the right side of the swaybar. I have a 3" dual exhaust so that was the only to make it all work. I usally 60' in the low 1.4's with a best of a 1.40. If you want I can attatch a photo so you can see how it works.
