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ATR sway bar...I cannot be this retarded

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Tom Tom Turbo

Turbo Goes Woo Woo
Joined
Jul 10, 2002
Messages
1,943
I am trying to install my ATR style sway bar from Full Throttle and the damn thing is kicking my A$$! I didn't know it was possible for 4 bolts to be such a pain in the butt. The front two go in nice and quickly, but the back two will get really close to lining up, and then they won't go any further. Do I need to do some notching of the lower shock mount thingy or grind some off the sway bar? It seems like it would be easier to notch the mount. Anyone else had this problem? Oh, and I am running the Bowling Green Customs LCAs with stock UCAs. Free 6 pack to anyone who comes over and makes it fit properly! :D


Thanks!
 
Tom Tom Turbo said:
I am trying to install my ATR style sway bar from Full Throttle and the damn thing is kicking my A$$! I didn't know it was possible for 4 bolts to be such a pain in the butt. The front two go in nice and quickly, but the back two will get really close to lining up, and then they won't go any further. Do I need to do some notching of the lower shock mount thingy or grind some off the sway bar? It seems like it would be easier to notch the mount. Anyone else had this problem? Oh, and I am running the Bowling Green Customs LCAs with stock UCAs. Free 6 pack to anyone who comes over and makes it fit properly! :D

Dunno about the BG stuff, but usually loosening the lowers, and having all the weight off of the axle lets things line up.
 
Try doing one side at a time. Having a friend also helps when doing this. Say you have the driver's side mounted....just put the bolts in and tighten the nuts enough so they dont fall off. Then try to line up the pass side. Your buddy might have to push the driver's side lower arm towards the pass side...or the pass side lower arm towards the diff. You just need enough to get the bolts thru...then tighten everything down equally. DO NOT CUT/NOTCH ANYTHING~!
 
when i did my ATR sway bar it bolted right in no issues i have hotchkis lowers one thing i did notice is that the holes in my sway bar were actuially slots so there was some room for adjustment, a tip for you throw out the crap nuts and bolts they gave you and get some good stuff, i looked at them and said maybe i should get some better bolts cause they didnt look so great i used them anyway and in less than a week the rear bolt on both sides snaped off got some good grade 8 zinc coated hardwear no more issues in over a year. if i remember correctly thet were 3/8 x 3"
 
I had a set of HP Motorsport Mega-Bite Jr upper and lower ctl arms on my 86. I elevated the car so the rear axle was hanging. The trick there was to install the two easy bolts (one on each side) and snug them up. Then I put a floor jack underneath the sway bar and the differential in the middle and started jacking up the combo - all the while wiggling the remaining bolts until they were through. Yep - PITA - this is THE test to see how multidexterious you really are. After you're done, Cirque Du Soleil performers have nothing on you! :D
 
The swaybar from Full Throttle isn't an ATR. Close enough though. They also advertise as including Grade 8 hardware....so you probably don't have to re-buy any of the hardware.
 
Make sure that you've raised the rear of the car by the frame rails and allow the rear axle to hang on the suspension. The axle should be supported by a hydraulic jack to avoid damaging the brake lines. If the sway bar will not slide into place, disconnect the lower shock mounts to allow the rear to hang a bit further and the sway bar should install with minimal effort. :biggrin:
 
thanks guys, I will try all of that tonight....and one of two things will happen.

1) everything will work just fine

2) I will invent some new obsenities
 
Tom Tom Turbo said:
2) I will invent some new obsenities

Really?, I thought I'd heard them all.
Be sure to pass them along, so we all stay up to date on them!. :)
 
Put the frame rails on floor stands and raise or lower the rear axle with a floor jack until everything lines up but dont fully tighten until taken off floor stands and drive up on ramps to have a loaded condition before fully tightening the the bolts.
 
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