ATR Up Pipe
- Thread starter HOTSIX
- Start date
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dave84gn
Guest
I've got the same prob. Just put my engine in and I'm leaking at every exhaust connection (up/down/crossover, maybe even headers!) I've got some of that high performance silicone that can handle 600F it says. Dunno if that's enough. I might just take my car to an exhaust shop. But if anyone has any suggestions for HOTSIX, I'd like to know too 
Dave
Dave
Men in Black
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 177
I sealed mine up with ultra copper by permatex.
Ultra copper...
I think the local hardware store has that stuff...I got some other gasket sealant for other stuff like water pump etc....there by Permatex. Dave, i'll give Ultra Copper a shot and let ya know how it works.
I don't know if I am leaking at the X-Over...hard to tell with the loud Up-pipe at the header leaking. I think I might just weld my X-Over connection instead of that silly clamp.
Thanks Men In Black
I think the local hardware store has that stuff...I got some other gasket sealant for other stuff like water pump etc....there by Permatex. Dave, i'll give Ultra Copper a shot and let ya know how it works.
I don't know if I am leaking at the X-Over...hard to tell with the loud Up-pipe at the header leaking. I think I might just weld my X-Over connection instead of that silly clamp.
Thanks Men In Black
Other Suggestions...
dave84gn, (sorry Cool84)
First off, muffler cement is a permanent epoxy type stuff, so if you never want to pull the up-pipe off again, then go for it, but as much as I have my car apart I sure wouldn't use it.
What I use, believe it or not, is Toyota, yes its true, Toyota black slicone. You can only buy it at a Lexus or Toyota dealership, and it ain't cheap, like 18-20 bucks a tube. But it is worth it, I use it at all exhaust juctions. Only trick to it is that you need to let it set-up for a while after you apply it. I let it sit at least an hour before starting the car, but the more time the better, 2 hours is great, but I ususally can't wait that long to get the car running. Also, on a safety note, don't let the Toyota crap sit on your skin for too long, or your skin will get irritated, its some potent stuff.
Hope this helps,
Drew H. Carlton
'85 GN, 11.918 @ 111.6, NO IC, NO SPRAY. DAILY DRIVER
dave84gn, (sorry Cool84)
First off, muffler cement is a permanent epoxy type stuff, so if you never want to pull the up-pipe off again, then go for it, but as much as I have my car apart I sure wouldn't use it.
What I use, believe it or not, is Toyota, yes its true, Toyota black slicone. You can only buy it at a Lexus or Toyota dealership, and it ain't cheap, like 18-20 bucks a tube. But it is worth it, I use it at all exhaust juctions. Only trick to it is that you need to let it set-up for a while after you apply it. I let it sit at least an hour before starting the car, but the more time the better, 2 hours is great, but I ususally can't wait that long to get the car running. Also, on a safety note, don't let the Toyota crap sit on your skin for too long, or your skin will get irritated, its some potent stuff.
Hope this helps,
Drew H. Carlton
'85 GN, 11.918 @ 111.6, NO IC, NO SPRAY. DAILY DRIVER
Hey, I haven't replied to this thread yet.
I've found there is no way to seal it if you consistantly run 22+ psi like I do. It always eventually leaks. I was running a solid metal gasket and it cracked that one and blew it out also. I'm having a custom 2.5" pipe made that uses a flat flange that will bolt straight to the header with no need for a gasket, only a little silicone.
I really think 2.5" is a good size and shouldn't make any negative changes in spoolup. The crossover is 2.25" and it only has 3 cylinders flowing through it so 2.5" with all 6 should still have plenty of velocity. Think about how restrictive a tiny 2.25" pipe is with all that exhaust flowing through it.
I've found there is no way to seal it if you consistantly run 22+ psi like I do. It always eventually leaks. I was running a solid metal gasket and it cracked that one and blew it out also. I'm having a custom 2.5" pipe made that uses a flat flange that will bolt straight to the header with no need for a gasket, only a little silicone.
I really think 2.5" is a good size and shouldn't make any negative changes in spoolup. The crossover is 2.25" and it only has 3 cylinders flowing through it so 2.5" with all 6 should still have plenty of velocity. Think about how restrictive a tiny 2.25" pipe is with all that exhaust flowing through it.
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dave84gn
Guest
Cool hotsix, glad to hear. Yea I was actually over at my buddies place who's building a stage2 turbo buick (the guy I bought my motor from -- his old 84 motor/turbo). I bought his mint stock uppipe for cheap and slapped it on my car and it took car of all the uppipe leaks.. I was REALLY surprised. But I'm sure I've got some leaks around the headers and maybe crossover.. not sure what to do about those.. let me know if you have any luck I'm working on fixing a reoccuring oil leak around my oil cooler connection near the oil filter. That and trying to get my turbolink to stop spitting bad data at me After that I'll look at the leaks if the season still has some decent whether in it. IT SNOWED TODAY, AHHHHHHHH
Dave
I'm working on fixing a reoccuring oil leak around my oil cooler connection near the oil filter. That and trying to get my turbolink to stop spitting bad data at me After that I'll look at the leaks if the season still has some decent whether in it. IT SNOWED TODAY, AHHHHHHHHDave
Yep, snow's here. Actually, Drew is right about the muffler cement. I used it around the joints, not on them (so I can melt it off later). Only downside is accidentally cutting a pipe with the plasma cutter. But it seals really good! Try some copper RTV available at CT, that might work OK. I've heard under pressure it tends to blow itself out, though.
