B-body spindle/12" brake swap info

[KendallF]

I've updated my web site with some information and pictures of the B-body spindle and 12" brake swap. Click on "What's New" and you'll find a link or you can navigate through the T-type Project and Chassis & Suspension links to find it.

http://home.attbi.com/~frederik/

Instead of using the high buck Hotchkis or GW a-arms, I had a local circle track fabricator build me a set; I've included dimensions and sources for my parts. Hope somebody finds it interesting (I hyped it to my wife but she just yawned).

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by KendallF
Hope somebody finds it interesting (I hyped it to my wife but she just yawned).

Yawned?.
I could hardly stand the excitement.......

Now just wait til ya use them.

to get mine to *balance* out and work right with the rear discs, I wound up gutting the combination valve. One of the Caprice pages has an little blurb on that. Just need to tap the plunger end to plug it.

 

[UNGN]

Wow, I even got a blurb

All that stuff about the arms and only one line mentioning the coil overs. What the story on those? That looks like a pretty cool setup.

 

[BooBoo231cu]

I like the Rosewood cars too!!

 

[Whitettype86]

KendallF

I'll take a set of A arms if u get some made up?

 

[tim87tr]

Nice!

I had to stop looking at the pics of that nice setup. I just removed the front A arms after my shock replacement project turned into a front end kit project . The best pic was seeing how easy you can get to the upper A arm bolts with the body off the frame

 

[KendallF]

Originally posted by bruce
to get mine to *balance* out and work right with the rear discs, I wound up gutting the combination valve. One of the Caprice pages has an little blurb on that. Just need to tap the plunger end to plug it.

I am interested in doing this. I have the proportioning valve out of the car but I'm still not sure how it comes apart. Do you happen to have a link? Thanks!

Originally posted by UNGN
Wow, I even got a blurb

All that stuff about the arms and only one line mentioning the coil overs. What the story on those? That looks like a pretty cool setup.

That's because I don't know much about 'em. They're Carreras (now QA1s, I think). They have a plate that mounts to the lower control arm where the shock normally mounts; it rests around the circumference of the shock's hole for strength. Then it has a spherical rod end attachment for the bottom of the shock. The shock has a threaded sleeve and adjuster that cranks the bottom of the spring up or down.

Originally posted by Whitettype86
I'll take a set of A arms if u get some made up?

We want to make sure that the geometry works out when I get the front end aligned, make any necessary adjustments, and I think we may do some for "public consumption". Doing some with stock style ball joints would also be fairly easy for him I believe. Mine use the steel insert without nylon sleeves as the car is primarily a race car but street versions would use the sleeves.

 

[Ormand]

Bump Steer?

you didn't mention bump steer. From other stories, I've learned that the B Body spindles change the attachment height for the outer tie rod end, and that causes significant bump steer. There are kits, from Baer, Global West, and others that change the height of the inner tie rod end to match. Did you find/fix this problem, or for your appication, does it not matter?

 

[KendallF]

The car's not at ride height yet..it'll be a bit before the motor and trans, etc. are in so I can see how the tie rod angle is. I did mock things up to check the control arm geometry somewhat, but I haven't checked the tie rod setup as I am waiting on new adjusters. Most people don't seem to notice a real problem. If it's noticeable and annoying, I'll look into lowering the tie rod via a kit or some home-made fangling.

 

[Matt Weiser]

On the bump steer question:

It's been my observation that this would only be a problem at full suspension droop, such as when the car is jacked up or maybe rising off a big bump like a RR crossing or something. Depends on your setup of course. I have the B-spindles, 12" brakes and Global West upper control arms. The GW arms have a built-in bump stop, probably to prevent the kind of over-travel that would cause bump steer in the first place. In any case, bump-steer hasn't been a problem for me (...yet...).