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B-Body Spindles vs GM Spindle Length Spacer

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cutluse231

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2001
Messages
222
AS much as I could , I have been following threads about doing the B-body Spindle swap with the the 1LE rotors, excellent idea, would love to do the swap myself, but kinda expnsive.

I ran into the thread over on the Chevelle website about using spindle length spacers to give more negative camber, to help the tire remain more flatter on the ground( just like the taller B-body Spindle would) and retain all your current suspension.

As I see it now the only advantage to the 1LE swap w/ b-body spindles is the braking ( that is if these extenders are/do what the say will do).

Other than the Hotchkis upper control arm,to correct the geometry, the rest of the avalible arms ( based on my research)( Globalwest,Robert Adams and UB Machine upper arms) still require an offset shaft to work because they are G-Body only designed, if thats the case just use the the offset shafts on the stock upper arm.

I just had my frontend rebuilt about a year ago with polyurethane bushings/ the works and all. trying to save some money and get my Regal to handle better.

Heres the links I ran across that got me thinking.
the Chevelle website thread
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30593

the HOTROD article about them being installed and tested
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/50358/

and the company that makes them
https://www.pro-motorsports.com/store/product.asp?id=66

just wanted some input or/thoughts

thanks ahead of time
later
 
cutluse231 said:
AS much as I could , I have been following threads about doing the B-body Spindle swap with the the 1LE rotors, excellent idea, would love to do the swap myself, but kinda expnsive.

As I see it now the only advantage to the 1LE swap w/ b-body spindles is the braking ( that is if these extenders are/do what the say will do).

I just had my frontend rebuilt about a year ago with polyurethane bushings/ the works and all. trying to save some money and get my Regal to handle better.

just wanted some input or/thoughts

Lowering the front of the car will change the geometry enough to get you into a negative camber gain situation. If you lower the front end of the car so that the outter lower BJ is further from the ground then the inner pivot, then the tire will go into negative camber as it compresses. The Tall Spindle, negative gain's *advantage* is that it works with a stock height car.

The bump steer issue, is IMO, a real down side to the B-Body spindles. Even with shorter stiffer springs, it can make life *interesting* at high speeds.


I've run the B-Body fronts, with the PST rear disc conversion, and now have the LS1 (02 camaro) front and rear discs on the car. The LS1 fronts use the stock spindles, and IMO are a MUCH better choice. The rear look to need to have mini tubs, FWIW.
Using cut 1LE (3rd Gen camaro) springs, and Bilsteins make the ride rather firm, but the car handles and stops MUCH better then a stocker.
With the way I have things set-up I can *just* lock up the front tires (275/40x17s), needless to say, the car stops very well.
 
Bruce
Thanks for the reply!

When you mentioned you was using the LS1 fronts are you refering to the brake set ups or just the rotors.Also what "stock" spindles are you using ? the Camaros or the GNs?
Mini tubbing was eventualy part of my plan ( sometime :rolleyes: ) and stuffing that size of a tire was also.

jus wanted a starting point,.

"bumsteer"? what is that?

Again thanks
 
cutluse231 said:
When you mentioned you was using the LS1 fronts are you refering to the brake set ups or just the rotors.Also what "stock" spindles are you using ? the Camaros or the GNs?
Mini tubbing was eventualy part of my plan ( sometime :rolleyes: ) and stuffing that size of a tire was also.

jus wanted a starting point,.

"bumsteer"? what is that?

Again thanks

I'm using the stock GN spindles.

Bumpsteer is the inherit turning of the wheels due to suspension travel. ie when you hit a *bump* the front tires will try to steer the car slightly from the original path. Bumpsteer is often the reason for that odd feeling at high speeds, like the steering wheel really isn't fully attached to the front wheels.
 
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