BA Crankshaft-did yours drop in?

[GBGN1]

3.625 stroke-Or did the block need to be clearanced?

 

[coach]

3.625 stroke-Or did the block need to be clearanced?

There is work needed.

 

[GBGN1]

When I bought the crank I swear the guy I bought it from said that this ba crank was a drop in. Boy I hope the machinist don't rape me on it.

 

[bison]

When I bought the crank I swear the guy I bought it from said that this ba crank was a drop in. Boy I hope the machinist don't rape me on it.

Nothing aftermarket is a drop in unless it was already run and there was no problems. There is a lot of work needed for sure. The block, crank, and rods need to be looked at very carefully.

 

[GBGN1]

No I understand that, it was run already but I have new rods and a block that needs clearancing I'm sure. Whole short blocks at shop and just got a call today that I missed. I'm thinking I know what it's about.

 

[m233roller]

Well all I can say is I hope you have better luck with your stroker crank than I had with my drop in stock stroke BA crank. I knew from the get go about the possibility of having some clearance issues but I wasn't prepared for having to turn the damn thing 10-10 as it was all over the place when we miced it out. Then after asking it if was knurled for a rear seal and was told it was good to go, I was really upset as it WASN"T knurled and the slinger on the rear of the crank had to be machined as it wouldn't even fit in the block. So needless to say after paying Kevin (my machinst here and I'll put him up against any of them) to do all the extras and a new set of 10-10 bearings I had a crank that works. For those with any wonders Kevin bought the correct knurling wheel, and made his own fixture for knurling any off these China forged cranks that are not knurled for the rear seal. I think he's had 4 or so shipped to him now to be knurled. Here's the nice job he does on the knurling. I should of just sent the damn thing back and been about $400 richer!! I will say once Kevin did all is magic on it I have had ZERO problems and now have about 6,000 miles on the engine.

 

[NCTURBOS]

I've done a few now with the 3.625" stroke BA crankshafts & rods, all from Dan @ DLS. None of them required any work to the block. None of them required any machining on the main/rod journals, other than some slight polishing to get the bearing clearances exactly where I wanted them. They all required rod to camshaft clearance...

If using a girdle... You will need to do some machining on it for counterweight clearance, as well as the other normal grinding that the girdle requires...


K.

 

[Sweet6]

I've done a few now with the 3.625" stroke BA crankshafts & rods, all from Dan @ DLS. None of them required any work to the block. None of them required any machining on the main/rod journals, other than some slight polishing to get the bearing clearances exactly where I wanted them. They all required rod to camshaft clearance...

If using a girdle... You will need to do some machining on it for counterweight clearance, as well as the other normal grinding that the girdle requires...


K.

I had heard that it was best to get these from Dan too. I know Don Cruz said he likes the crank from Dan.

 

[GBGN1]

Well all I can say is I hope you have better luck with your stroker crank than I had with my drop in stock stroke BA crank. I knew from the get go about the possibility of having some clearance issues but I wasn't prepared for having to turn the damn thing 10-10 as it was all over the place when we miced it out. Then after asking it if was knurled for a rear seal and was told it was good to go, I was really upset as it WASN"T knurled and the slinger on the rear of the crank had to be machined as it wouldn't even fit in the block. So needless to say after paying Kevin (my machinst here and I'll put him up against any of them) to do all the extras and a new set of 10-10 bearings I had a crank that works. For those with any wonders Kevin bought the correct knurling wheel, and made his own fixture for knurling any off these China forged cranks that are not knurled for the rear seal. I think he's had 4 or so shipped to him now to be knurled. Here's the nice job he does on the knurling. I should of just sent the damn thing back and been about $400 richer!! I will say once Kevin did all is magic on it I have had ZERO problems and now have about 6,000 miles on the engine.

I got lucky and bought mine 2nd hand all ready run and machined. for 650, mains were just .010 under thats all. Machinist told me todayit dropped in. Hope all else is good.

 

[Squid4life]

What rods will you be running? I think that was a big "oh crap" a lot of times on the 3.625" was large big end of the rods being overly large and requiring additional clearancing so it wouldn't hit the cam.

 

[GBGN1]

, wide journal.

 

[GBGN1]

K1.

 

[Squid4life]

I will have to look at some of my old pics when I get home, or post a pic of a side view of one of my old Carrillo rods. There is a distinguishable difference from one bolt side to the other in order to clear the cam. Maybe K1's are all clearanced like that, I forget. Been a while since I had a set in my hands...

 

[NCTURBOS]

K1's and the rods from Dan are already clearanced some, but don't assume it is enough. You need to mock the build and check everything!


K.

 

[Chris Hogeland]

K1 will have to be clearenced to keep from hitting the cam.

 

[Chris Hogeland]

The oil galley going to the oil pick up will have to be notched to clear the #1 rod bolt too.

 

[GBGN1]

When I get the short block back it will only have the crank, rods and pistons in it. What part if the rods will need grinding? And how much clearance do I need to make it safe?
Thanks!!

 

[NCTURBOS]

You'll want to take/send your camshaft and timing set to the machine shop so they can mock that up and make sure the rods aren't hitting the camshaft. If they do hit, you'll want to clearance the rods before they balance the rotating assembly...


K.

 

[GBGN1]

Great point thanks- that's what I'll have to take care of tomorrow

 

[ek02]

When you grind the oil passage for clearance, be careful. I rounded off the tip of the head of the ARP bolt on # 1 H-beam rod slightly on a grinder for clearance, then ground the relief on the oil passage so I had .060 clearance. I used a drill bit to measure it. After the main webs cracked on that block and it was junk, I drilled into the relief on the oil passage to see how thick it was. The casting was .060 thick at that point. If you get it too thin and break through, you can press a piece of tubing into the passage from the front of the block. I checked rod to cam clearance with a feeler guage. Be sure the cam is degreed where you want it, because it has an effect on the rod to cam clearance. I like .040-060 clearance. Your K-1 rods may clear, but if not, grind all the rods, not just the ones that hit the cam, and try to get them the same. The rod bolts on the cam side will need to have the end of the threads ground also. Good luck with your build.