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Bad cam sensor symptoms. junkyard.

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sabersaw30

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
299
I think my cam sensor is going south.Is there any cars at the junkyard come with these sensors before I dump a bunch of money in a new one?My cam sensor tool lights up sometimes and sometimes it don't.I beleive the sensor is going bad.It keeps fouling my plugs.Rough idle.What are the symptoms of a bad cam sensor?It is not throwing a fault code yet.
 
I believe all 84-87 TR's used the same sensor, but not sure you'd find one in a junkyard. Not sure if any other GM cars used the same exact sensor or not.

I'm not an expert of cam sensors by any means but I do know when one goes out it doesn't start.
 
Casper's Electronics, Inc.: Cam Tool I got this one the light should not come on at all if it was 180 out right?The car just will not idle right it is like I got a huge cam in it.No vacum leaks and it has fuel all over the plugs I am just wondering is the cam sensor throwing the injectors out of sync on timing.It is like it is just flooding the motor at idle.Don't the cam sensor tell the injectors what cylinder to fire on?If the cam sensor was going bad would it make it idle bad?
 
I believe all 84-87 TR's used the same sensor, but not sure you'd find one in a junkyard. Not sure if any other GM cars used the same exact sensor or not.

I'm not an expert of cam sensors by any means but I do know when one goes out it doesn't start.
I am not sure if any other gm cars used this sensor either but I hate to spend the money on the cam sensor if that is not it.
 
Your setting the cam sensor with the motor turned past TDC per the instructions, and then locking the sensor down?

Im not doubting your work, but yes its possible to get the light to come on with the cam sensor 180° out. Instead of the compression stroke, it would be on the intake stroke.
If you have access to have someone help you turn the motor over, use a 18mm wrench on the tensioner to put tension on the serpentine belt, roll the motor over with the alternator nut and if you have your cam sensor cap off and your finger on #1 hole, you will see the window in the cam sensor should point away from the notch in the sensor.
I have a picture here, PLEASE NOTE THIS IS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE WHEN TDC#1 AND 180° OUT. Some one didnt use a tool to set it.
You need to set it at TDC #1, then rotate past 1.5 inches(cam sticker in kit) then drop the shaft in place.

Do you have a scanmaster to show codes, i dont know if your ses light works.
When you turn the key on, does the check engine light come on?

If you do get a code 41 for the cam sensor, it can be the ignition module that makes the car run in batch fire mode.

Here is the picture with the sensor 180° out
BW
 

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I am not sure if any other gm cars used this sensor either but I hate to spend the money on the cam sensor if that is not it.

Pull the cap off, if the cam sensor ring is tight, there is nothing wrong with the shaft assy. You could always pull it out and verify, then follow the directions
BW
 
Yeah I did like the instructions said and the window is almost right toward the alternator.I can't figure this out I was racing a mustang and when I got home it just would not idle.I hope it is not a head gasket.I done a compression test 155 all cylinders.What ever happened it was under boost.Checked all my hoses after turbo and all of them is tight.I changed my coil pack to the type 2 and I am getting plenty spark and plenty fuel.fuel pressure gauge reading 43 static.My block learn is pegged out to 150 so I changed all vacum lines still on 150. on scanmaster. unpluged maf no change in idle.Unpluged cam sensor no change in idle.Pulled headers no leaks.All spark plugs wet with fuel changed plugs and right back wet when I crank it up.I am stumped.Runs good if I take it down the road.Idles like it has a huge cam.The only two sensors I haven't changed is the iac and cam sensor.I got a bosch 02 I am going to change it to a denso.
 
How much vacuum do you show? If your blm is at 150, its super lean and that would indicate a severe vacuum leak. 155 compression sounds OK...

Hmmm so you checked every vacuum hose (map sensor on pass side fender)


I dont think your issue is the cam sensor, its a severe leak. Do you have a vac brakes?

Unplugging the cam sensor while its running will cause it to run real rich, i think you have a different issue than the cam sensor. Set the cam sensor if you have messed with it, check for vacuum leaks, and then run a unlit propane torch or carb cleaner / starting fluid around the intake manifold to see if the idle comes up, when you find the leak it will suck into the intake leak and the engine will rev up
BW
 
How much vacuum do you show? If your blm is at 150, its super lean and that would indicate a severe vacuum leak. 155 compression sounds OK...

Hmmm so you checked every vacuum hose (map sensor on pass side fender)


I dont think your issue is the cam sensor, its a severe leak. Do you have a vac brakes?

Unplugging the cam sensor while its running will cause it to run real rich, i think you have a different issue than the cam sensor. Set the cam sensor if you have messed with it, check for vacuum leaks, and then run a unlit propane torch or carb cleaner / starting fluid around the intake manifold to see if the idle comes up, when you find the leak it will suck into the intake leak and the engine will rev up
BW



+1
Forget the cam sensor. Blm are at 150 and the car idles rough is a sure indication of a vacuum leak. Check and replace the upper plenum gasket and any other gaskets that are most likely dry rotted. These gaskets are very inexpensive.
 
I also forgot to ask, what is the idle speed and the grams per second for the maf.

If we lean towards maf sensor, then just pull the uppipe off and unplug the maf sensor. If it runs great and idles smooth, its just the maf sensor thats screwing everything else up
BW
 
I also forgot to ask, what is the idle speed and the grams per second for the maf.

If we lean towards maf sensor, then just pull the uppipe off and unplug the maf sensor. If it runs great and idles smooth, its just the maf sensor thats screwing everything else up
BW

I have unhooked the maf but haven't pulled the uppipe.Talking about the pipe that goes to the throttle body?Well it is not showing much vacum like 5 on my boost gauge but I think that is because the idle is so screwed up it don't have enough rpms to hold a vacum.I unhooked my vacum block and put a full gasket on there to do away with the vacum lines and it still ran rough.Is ther anymore vacum lines besides those on the throttle body?maf was reading 5and 6 because the idle is not staying the same.I will check the rpms tomorrow.Even when the motor idled good the block learn was still 150.turbotweak chip.My ecm maybe going out.
 
doubt your ecm is going out.

map sensor, egr, charcoal cannister, pcv all have vacuum lines going to them

5 inches of vacuum, should be 20 You have a hose off the intake.

BW
 
I have unhooked the maf but haven't pulled the uppipe.Talking about the pipe that goes to the throttle body?Well it is not showing much vacum like 5 on my boost gauge but I think that is because the idle is so screwed up it don't have enough rpms to hold a vacum.I unhooked my vacum block and put a full gasket on there to do away with the vacum lines and it still ran rough.Is ther anymore vacum lines besides those on the throttle body?maf was reading 5and 6 because the idle is not staying the same.I will check the rpms tomorrow.Even when the motor idled good the block learn was still 150.turbotweak chip.My ecm maybe going out.

saber, don't you have my number..I can get your car back on the road.
 
I also forgot to ask, what is the idle speed and the grams per second for the maf.

If we lean towards maf sensor, then just pull the uppipe off and unplug the maf sensor. If it runs great and idles smooth, its just the maf sensor thats screwing everything else up
BW

I unhooked the maf and took the uppipe off and it still runs the same.The idle is just rough it will barely stay running so it won't hold no vacum.Could it still be a blown headgasket just not showing up on the compression check? I would thank it would show up on a compression check.
 
+1
Forget the cam sensor. Blm are at 150 and the car idles rough is a sure indication of a vacuum leak. Check and replace the upper plenum gasket and any other gaskets that are most likely dry rotted. These gaskets are very inexpensive.

+1... if you're absolutely SURE it's not a piping connection between the turbo and the tb, it must have blown the plenum or intake gasket.... start spraying carb cleaner, wd, or whatever around there and see what you can find... check the maf to turbo connections real closely too....
 
That was the first thing I changed was the intake gasket when it started acting up.I will check the plenum gasket tomorrow.The idle is so bad it is going to be hard to recognize a change spraying wd40 around everything.But I will try it and see.I will try to get a clip of the car running with my camera tomorrow.
 
Could a burnt or bent valve cause these symptoms?I was told to see if the exhaust pipe is sucking in to check the valves.The compression was 160 on all cylinders.If it was a valve it should show up on compression check right?
 
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