Baer Brake install
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salvageV6
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- May 25, 2001
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Any tips or tricks to putting the rear discs on?
I have a set to do this spring on the GN.
How did you set the bias? Just gut the valve as suggested by the directions?
You using the powermaster?
I have a set to do this spring on the GN.
How did you set the bias? Just gut the valve as suggested by the directions?
You using the powermaster?
I would recommend you get the axles precut or get a machine shop set up ahead of time. My axles were stock and I had to cut them down to the max flange OD called for by baer. Or order aftermarket axles already cut to the correct OD(5.9").
When I got the kit in it didnt have a proportioning valve, which I thought strange(my buddy's mustang kit came with one). So I called up Baer and they said the stock valve would work. I was ready to order the prop valve if it didnt, but baer was right, it feels about right(I think it called to gut the valve if you had the external prop valve).
You also have to relocate the shocks, so if you need to replace them, it would be a good time to do it. Both sides of mine had to be shimmed, I used washers that fit. Make sure you have a few different size thicknesses.
I am using the powermaster. I was ready to go to vac, but everything is working exceptional so I didnt touch it.
The front brakes took me about two hours, the rears took about 12 hours including time going to the machine shop and parts store(bearing/seals and oil).
Hope that helps.
When I got the kit in it didnt have a proportioning valve, which I thought strange(my buddy's mustang kit came with one). So I called up Baer and they said the stock valve would work. I was ready to order the prop valve if it didnt, but baer was right, it feels about right(I think it called to gut the valve if you had the external prop valve).
You also have to relocate the shocks, so if you need to replace them, it would be a good time to do it. Both sides of mine had to be shimmed, I used washers that fit. Make sure you have a few different size thicknesses.
I am using the powermaster. I was ready to go to vac, but everything is working exceptional so I didnt touch it.
The front brakes took me about two hours, the rears took about 12 hours including time going to the machine shop and parts store(bearing/seals and oil).
Hope that helps.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,993
Thanks, time for me to re-read those instructions. 
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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- May 25, 2001
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- 20,993
Just did the rear install today.
Two points about the rear Baer kit, they should give you grade 8 new 6MM backing bolts like they did the huge top one.
No way can you get those out without breaking them all.
And the emergency brake cable they supplied with the kit, the end does not fit in the stock holder had to grind it down to fit.
Other than that I should have reread this thread about all the washer shims but I did it at a local shop with a buddy of mine on his lift and it went okay they had tons of good steel washers.
One side went right on to spec.s with the Baer supplied hardware other side took 4 times on and off to get the shimming right for the proper caliper to rotor clearance.
Had to weld nuts on 3 backing bolts and get them out with a lot of heat which took some time.
About 6 hours work including greasing all the HR Parts stuff and front end, bleeding the system and realigning my ATR single exhaust.
Stops great with all 4 discs too!
Ready for a trip to Lime Rock.
Two points about the rear Baer kit, they should give you grade 8 new 6MM backing bolts like they did the huge top one.
No way can you get those out without breaking them all.
And the emergency brake cable they supplied with the kit, the end does not fit in the stock holder had to grind it down to fit.
Other than that I should have reread this thread about all the washer shims but I did it at a local shop with a buddy of mine on his lift and it went okay they had tons of good steel washers.
One side went right on to spec.s with the Baer supplied hardware other side took 4 times on and off to get the shimming right for the proper caliper to rotor clearance.
Had to weld nuts on 3 backing bolts and get them out with a lot of heat which took some time.
About 6 hours work including greasing all the HR Parts stuff and front end, bleeding the system and realigning my ATR single exhaust.
Stops great with all 4 discs too!
Ready for a trip to Lime Rock.
I got a used brass combo. valve from BWeary, and had some plugs made up, and then silver soldered them in. While things were good before that, they're incredible now. The stock *piece* is in fact a combination valve, rather then just a proportioning valve, it's set up to slightly delay the rears being applied. For teh min amount of work it takes to make the plugs, and install it, I'd recommend try one that's got things blocked off. Plus, with the ability to have decent braking you're more likely to use them, and eliminating the pressure differential switch eliminates one point of failure.
Originally posted by GNSCOTT
Damage was about $2K for 12" fronts and the rears, zinc washed rotors and slots, no other options.
Gonna drive this one for 17 years too so I want to be able to stop with this car, might avoid another salvageV6 title.
I hear ya on that one. In fact, not being able to stop in time at the dragstrip is one of the reasons I want a kit.
James
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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I always take the last turnoff at the track and pump the brakes to stop. I think track racing takes a lot out of the brakes.
I see no reason not to coast a bit to slow down while opening windows, looking for the win light and checking KR recall etc. while heading for the last turnoff.
Baer rear kit comes with instructions to remove a couple of parts from the factory proportioning valve to balance the system.
Works fine for me I even left the steel one on there and saved the new NOS GM brass one for a good spare for the other car which still uses all the proportioning parts in it.
Then again once you lose brakes (rear) due to a busted line at 114 mph at the end of the track you tend to look at stopping in a different light.
Damm rust....
I see no reason not to coast a bit to slow down while opening windows, looking for the win light
and checking KR recall etc. while heading for the last turnoff.Baer rear kit comes with instructions to remove a couple of parts from the factory proportioning valve to balance the system.
Works fine for me I even left the steel one on there and saved the new NOS GM brass one for a good spare for the other car which still uses all the proportioning parts in it.
Then again once you lose brakes (rear) due to a busted line at 114 mph at the end of the track you tend to look at stopping in a different light.
Damm rust....
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
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- 20,993
I don't do videos on dialup here. 
However I remember the story and thread. Strange sad story.
That would be one dead Chebby owner if he took out my car.
Actually that would be one video I wouldn't want to watch anyway, it would bring back flashbacks of lousy women drivers hitting me.
All 5 of them.
I may actually work on salvageV6's brakes this year perhaps the larger calipers for the front.
GN with the Baers is all set.
Baer kits are enough work for me anyway especially the rear kit.
If I want to fab something it's gotta be electronic or alky. related fun stuff, or a cupholder.
Anything that might kill me I'll stick to the kit form or bolt on.
However I remember the story and thread. Strange sad story.
That would be one dead Chebby owner if he took out my car.
Actually that would be one video I wouldn't want to watch anyway, it would bring back flashbacks of lousy women drivers hitting me.
All 5 of them.
I may actually work on salvageV6's brakes this year perhaps the larger calipers for the front.
GN with the Baers is all set.
Baer kits are enough work for me anyway especially the rear kit.
If I want to fab something it's gotta be electronic or alky. related fun stuff, or a cupholder.
Anything that might kill me I'll stick to the kit form or bolt on.
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