If this is in the wrong forum sorry, move it as needed. Just thought I`d get the best chance at a response here...
Long story short...misdiagnosis
thought the timing chain was bad on my daily driver `95 Park Ave. 3.8 "K" suffix normaly aspirated. Took everything off balancer, cover ect. When putting it back together I can`t seem to get the balancer on all the way. I lubed it, and had it on and off at least 5 times trying different things, there are no scores or anything I can see preventing it from going all the way back on. I tried drawing it on with an impact, tapping it with a brass drift, and warming up the balancer.
The only thing new to me, from other engines I`ve worked on, is the keyway, which is cut at a taper. Roughly 3/16" deep at the beginning (back side of balancer) and it tapers down to flush. I assume this is so the key will never loosen and come out. I even put clay in at spots to see if it was bottoming out anywhere...I used to be a tool and die maker so I`ve assembled hundreds of things with slip and press fits. I don`t know if it`s something with the oil pump gears that may not be all the way back? Or something obvious that I`m overlooking? It`s hard to get your head in there and see what`s going on. Is there a certain way the key is supposed to be put on the crank? I`m at the point of taking the cover off once again and put the balancer on without it and see if it`ll go on all the way. It appears I`m about 1/8" shy. I`m tryinmg to avoid doing all that again. Before I realized it wasn`t on correctly I ran the car and have good oil pressure, the squeaking of the belt let me know something was wrong.
Any input would be appreciated
Thanks... :wink:
Long story short...misdiagnosis
thought the timing chain was bad on my daily driver `95 Park Ave. 3.8 "K" suffix normaly aspirated. Took everything off balancer, cover ect. When putting it back together I can`t seem to get the balancer on all the way. I lubed it, and had it on and off at least 5 times trying different things, there are no scores or anything I can see preventing it from going all the way back on. I tried drawing it on with an impact, tapping it with a brass drift, and warming up the balancer.The only thing new to me, from other engines I`ve worked on, is the keyway, which is cut at a taper. Roughly 3/16" deep at the beginning (back side of balancer) and it tapers down to flush. I assume this is so the key will never loosen and come out. I even put clay in at spots to see if it was bottoming out anywhere...I used to be a tool and die maker so I`ve assembled hundreds of things with slip and press fits. I don`t know if it`s something with the oil pump gears that may not be all the way back? Or something obvious that I`m overlooking? It`s hard to get your head in there and see what`s going on. Is there a certain way the key is supposed to be put on the crank? I`m at the point of taking the cover off once again and put the balancer on without it and see if it`ll go on all the way. It appears I`m about 1/8" shy. I`m tryinmg to avoid doing all that again. Before I realized it wasn`t on correctly I ran the car and have good oil pressure, the squeaking of the belt let me know something was wrong.
Any input would be appreciated
Thanks... :wink:
