Battery died, jumped car, now engine running rough

[Chuck Leeper]

no codes, no dummy lights....talked to a couple techs here at my shop, going to try disconnecting the battery, let it sit, hook back up, then see if it will idle for 10 mins, maybe drive the car around the parking lot for a little to see if anything changes.

You don't have to unhook the batt.
If you just uncouple the orange wire near the wiper tank, it'll do the same thing.
If you do unhook the batt, do the neg cable.

 

[T- Type Tim]

bump for follow up?

 

[supermario25]

UPDATE:

Unhooked the orange wire, removed and replaced TT chip from ECU, let it sit, took out MAF, cleaned and re-installed, hooked everything back up, car starts up then dies after about 2-3 seconds, cannot get it to stay running still

 

[T- Type Tim]

Ohm out coil pack then report back

Driving around (less than 5 miles)with a poorly grounded coil pack and a miss killed one of mine

 

[supermario25]

Ohm out coil pack then report back

Driving around (less than 5 miles)with a poorly grounded coil pack and a miss killed one of mine

Killed it?? lol

 

[T- Type Tim]

KILT...

if i remember correctly the center tower went

 

[dynoman]

starts up then dies after about 2-3 seconds, cannot get it to stay running still

I had this happen to me when I was at a car show . I went to start up and leave , and it would fire for a couple of seconds then die . It was kind of like the security system was kicking in , and that is what we were chasing . Someone suggested to disconnect the MAF ( unplug the wiring ) and try to start it again . The car started and continued to run . I plugged it back in and it never acted up again . Worth a shot .

 

[TireFryer]

What about………. Fuel pressures? Do you have them? 38 psi line on, and it should RISE if you blip the throttle. I had a dying pump and my car would start for about 5 seconds then loose pressure and die. I have a mechanical gauge so I can watch FP at all times. Maybe the Hotwire relay? Maybe the fuse if popped or something. Worth checking. Fuel pressure is the lifeline of these cars and if you don’t have FP, you’ll be ordering head gaskets

 

[T- Type Tim]

Bump
Update

 

[supermario25]

UPDATE:

Tried a couple more things as suggested by you guys.....

Fuel pressure was good, did not drop below 38

Throttled the car aggressively to try and get it to idle without dying in 2 seconds, car had a rough idle then would sound like it was dying or choking when I would give it throttle, dumping black smoke

Disconnected the MAF and car fired right up and seemed to have a normal idle. Took it around the block with the MAF discounted just to check if it was still dumping smoke, was not smoking, car drove a little better but had bad acceleration.

Going to replace the MAF and go from there....



Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

 

[supermario25]

UPDATE:

Tried a couple more things as suggested by you guys.....

Fuel pressure was good, did not drop below 38

Throttled the car aggressively to try and get it to idle without dying in 2 seconds, car had a rough idle then would sound like it was dying or choking when I would give it throttle, dumping black smoke

Disconnected the MAF and car fired right up and seemed to have a normal idle. Took it around the block with the MAF discounted just to check if it was still dumping smoke, was not smoking, car drove a little better but had bad acceleration.

Going to replace the MAF and go from there....



Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.

SCANMASTER READING AT TIME OF START

AF 12
bAt 13.3
Int 128
bL 128
CLt 167
AtS 92
r 850
tPS .48
IAC 69
cc 198
nAL 33

 

[Pronto]

Throw the MAF in the barrel and get an LS MAF and Translator.

 

[supermario25]

Throw the MAF in the barrel and get an LS MAF and Translator.

Throw the MAF in the barrel and get an LS MAF and Translator.

what is the benefit of the LS MAF and Translator? just curious, not too familiar

 

[T- Type Tim]

more robust....known good quality out of the box......can go larger diameter for more flow if wanted....Im running an ls maf that is 3.5" and has lasted going on 9 years since i put it in with a translator



thanks for the update

 

[dynoman]

what is the benefit of the LS MAF and Translator? just curious, not too familiar

The stock replacement is about 1 to 10 .... 1 good in every 10 purchased . The LS & Translator have very few problems . I have the one that acted up on me a few years ago still in my car , it never acted up again !!

 

[V6sleeper]

what is the benefit of the LS MAF and Translator? just curious, not too familiar

what is the benefit of the LS MAF and Translator? just curious, not too familiar

The stock maf is just junk, the Ls and translator just flat out work

 

[Grumpy]

bad Maf ?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

The over the counter MAF's for these cars generally aren't calibrated correctly for our cars. A Translator and LT1, LS1 or Z06 are the only way to fly and are as durable as they come. I've never heard of one Translator failing.

 

[V6sleeper]

The over the counter MAF's for these cars generally aren't calibrated correctly for our cars. A Translator and LT1, LS1 or Z06 are the only way to fly and are as durable as they come. I've never heard of one Translator failing.

Exactly, we all know the stock maf flows enough air to go fast and some been in the 9s with it yadda yadda but it still has a high failure rate (junk) if your going on a road trip bring 3 with you,
1 out of a 100 LS1s/zo6's have a problem

 

[supermario25]

So replace with these instead....

https://www.gn1performance.com/maf-translator-with-ls1-sensor/