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BEST Engine Bearings?

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SITHV6

Move against the Jedi 1st
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
Messages
321
Yes, I know its a vague and opinionted question...BUT, did the search and got too many posts that wont help. Heres the horror story... Oil pump gave out on way to get lunch... Limped the car home and took a look at the dip stick and saw what might be bearing material!! Car recently had a rebuild so everything but timing cover and oil pump was new. Taking the car in tomorrow to drop the pan and pray...IF the damage is only bearings ...
Are 360deg. oil channel bearings still available? or are clevite 77s still the norm? Postons High perf. bearings any good? Car has seen nothing but Royal Purple and Mobil 1 and has stock crank and rods with all the ARP goodies. TIA.
 
I like King bearings run at .0018-.002 rods and mains.
 
ive had good results with federal mogul race bearings. .001-.0015 mains and rods.
 
I have used Clevite and Federal Mogul Race. I liked them both and use the FD Race on a few engines. I will however say that if you have bad bearings, there is something else going one. I am not sure what you mean bt the oil pump went out. If you mean you lost oil pressure then be aware that clearances in these engines are very important. Above specs would cause you to loose oil pressure in no time. You also mentioned that the engine has never seen anything but synthetic and is fresh. What kind of cam do you have in it? From some of the info if a flat tappet cam, was it broken in properly? You should never use synthetic to break in a cam.

Hope this inof helps.
 
there you go

3 responces and 3 different opinions--I like original V bearing but getting scarce. IMO any name brand bearing assembled CORRECTLY will get the job done. Bearing opinion is like oil opinion.
 
In my opinion, You cannot beat the King Performance bearings. We have used them in 300hp street engines and 1500hp race engines. Work well with aluminum,steel or cast rods. You have to do some work to the mains but other than that they will cover most applications.
 
Good responses so far..

Well, to describe it better... Was on the way to grab a burger and oil light comes on. Under the hood you can hear the valve train ticking away Loud. Pulled over and checked the oil level...was a bit low...went to nearest Mobil station and picked up a 10w40 M1. Put it in, and to my horror the ticking didnt go away BUT the oil light would go out under load. Idle and light would go on and ticking was still there. Was able to limp the car home at as low an RPM as possible. Car has Fed Mogul bearings and PTE 218/224 flat tappet (noisey fooker) and had broken in the car with dino oil at 2000 rpm and after break in went right to Royal Purple. Car got switched mechanics between build so I've no Idea what the clearances were from the start. There was a Chiltons manual for factory tolerances on top of the unfinished short block til the day i fired his butt and took my baby eleswhere. Oh, and in 4 days will order a new Gbodyparts.com timing cover with the new higher perf oil pump. hope this helps.
 
SITHV6 said:
Well, to describe it better... Was on the way to grab a burger and oil light comes on. Under the hood you can hear the valve train ticking away Loud. Pulled over and checked the oil level...was a bit low...went to nearest Mobil station and picked up a 10w40 M1. Put it in, and to my horror the ticking didnt go away BUT the oil light would go out under load. Idle and light would go on and ticking was still there. Was able to limp the car home at as low an RPM as possible. Car has Fed Mogul bearings and PTE 218/224 flat tappet (noisey fooker) and had broken in the car with dino oil at 2000 rpm and after break in went right to Royal Purple. Car got switched mechanics between build so I've no Idea what the clearances were from the start. There was a Chiltons manual for factory tolerances on top of the unfinished short block til the day i fired his butt and took my baby eleswhere. Oh, and in 4 days will order a new Gbodyparts.com timing cover with the new higher perf oil pump. hope this helps.
As you know, no bearing will make up for $hitty machine work and or incorrect clearances. You should be able to get the pressures you need with the stock pump and good stock cover if its blueprinted.
 
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