Best front brake kit?
- Thread starter CopGn
- Start date
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
I have yet to see anything on the market that can compete on price, performance and the fact that you can install them yourself in 4 hours than the Aerospace brakes.
I have the 10 3/4 rotor now but I initially got the 11 3/4 rotor and it fit my 15x8 autodrags with a 4 inch backspacing great. But the kit uses a 1/2 spacer to clear the caliper so it stuck out that much more and with 265/50's up front, this was not pretty. So I had to order up new front rims with a 5 inch backspacing. Then it hit the caliper and I was back on the phone ordering the 10 3/4 rotor from them.
You would need 17 inch rims to fit a 13 inch rotor. You can get a 12 3/4 from these guys but thats mighty huge and its going to cost you more for it.
Aside from the extra work, for $775 with the stainless lines, this kit stops awesome!!!
You need to saw off the ears of the stocker and tap a few holes but nothing over the top.
Totally worth it
http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/page7a.htm#p7a
I have the 10 3/4 rotor now but I initially got the 11 3/4 rotor and it fit my 15x8 autodrags with a 4 inch backspacing great. But the kit uses a 1/2 spacer to clear the caliper so it stuck out that much more and with 265/50's up front, this was not pretty. So I had to order up new front rims with a 5 inch backspacing. Then it hit the caliper and I was back on the phone ordering the 10 3/4 rotor from them.
You would need 17 inch rims to fit a 13 inch rotor. You can get a 12 3/4 from these guys but thats mighty huge and its going to cost you more for it.
Aside from the extra work, for $775 with the stainless lines, this kit stops awesome!!!
You need to saw off the ears of the stocker and tap a few holes but nothing over the top.
Totally worth it
http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/page7a.htm#p7a
Hey CopGN,
What size wheels do you plan on running? Most 13" rotors will require the use of 17" wheels.
If it is a car that will see a lot of street time I would recommend a caliper that is dust and weather sealed, so there is not much maintance. (in terms of caliper rebuilding)
Most aftermarket 13" systems will run you $1,000.00 +
Hope that helps!
Thanks
Rick Elam
Baer Brake Systems
What size wheels do you plan on running? Most 13" rotors will require the use of 17" wheels.
If it is a car that will see a lot of street time I would recommend a caliper that is dust and weather sealed, so there is not much maintance. (in terms of caliper rebuilding)
Most aftermarket 13" systems will run you $1,000.00 +
Hope that helps!
Thanks
Rick Elam
Baer Brake Systems
Matt Weiser
It's an F.U.V.
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
Check out the 12" brake upgrade kits offered by Robert Adams:
http://gparts.freeyellow.com/
About $720 including tubular upper control arms. Best price going, for sure, and all the braking power most people will ever need. I went with his brake kit but got Global West control arms instead. Robert was great to work with and his kits are top quality. No fancy logos or graphics, but who needs 'em?
http://gparts.freeyellow.com/
About $720 including tubular upper control arms. Best price going, for sure, and all the braking power most people will ever need. I went with his brake kit but got Global West control arms instead. Robert was great to work with and his kits are top quality. No fancy logos or graphics, but who needs 'em?
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
Wilwood sells a kit, I think mine was $612 through Summit.
10.75" two-piece rotors, four-piston Dynalite calipers, and all necessary hardware, including new bearings. It does not include new brake lines. You can get adaptors for the stock lines that will mate up with the Dynalites, or you can get a set made (local brake shop made mine for like $30).
You have to machine the spindles to get them on, but they work very well. The pads are full-on race pads though. You have to get some heat in them before they really start to grip. For mostly street use, you'd want to replace those pads with some less aggressive street performance pads.
The kit fits under the stock wheels. It will push the front wheels outward a bit, and the thread pitch on the new lugs is different, so you'll need some new lug nuts.
The biggest difference is the weight. These things are MUCH lighter than the stock setup, like 20lbs PER SIDE of unsprung weight shaved off the car. I literally could throw the box the Wilwood kit came in. After putting all the stock brake parts in the same box, I could barely pick it up.
The big drawback is the calipers. The Dynalites are designed for race use. They don't have dust seals, so getting them dirty is generally a bad idea. Driving in inclement weather with them for extended periods is not recommended, and should be followed by a fluid change. Thankfully, the bleeder screws are easy to get to.
10.75" two-piece rotors, four-piston Dynalite calipers, and all necessary hardware, including new bearings. It does not include new brake lines. You can get adaptors for the stock lines that will mate up with the Dynalites, or you can get a set made (local brake shop made mine for like $30).
You have to machine the spindles to get them on, but they work very well. The pads are full-on race pads though. You have to get some heat in them before they really start to grip. For mostly street use, you'd want to replace those pads with some less aggressive street performance pads.
The kit fits under the stock wheels. It will push the front wheels outward a bit, and the thread pitch on the new lugs is different, so you'll need some new lug nuts.
The biggest difference is the weight. These things are MUCH lighter than the stock setup, like 20lbs PER SIDE of unsprung weight shaved off the car. I literally could throw the box the Wilwood kit came in. After putting all the stock brake parts in the same box, I could barely pick it up.
The big drawback is the calipers. The Dynalites are designed for race use. They don't have dust seals, so getting them dirty is generally a bad idea. Driving in inclement weather with them for extended periods is not recommended, and should be followed by a fluid change. Thankfully, the bleeder screws are easy to get to.
Racetronix
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
Do they make this system with weather seals for daily driving?
Jack
Racetronix
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
Bit late on the reply, but no...
then again, my car doesn't go out unless its clear, so I don't care.
However, lack of dust seals doesn't preclude running all-weather, it just demands that you change your fluid more than once a decade (closer to twice a year).
then again, my car doesn't go out unless its clear, so I don't care.
However, lack of dust seals doesn't preclude running all-weather, it just demands that you change your fluid more than once a decade (closer to twice a year).
PowrPerformance
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2003
Check out my website: http://www.powerperformancemotorsports.com.
I carry the full line of Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation products.
The Turbo Slotted Rotors and Force 10 SportTwin 2-piston calipers will run you $645.
Check out www.ssbrakes.com to see the other options they offer. Send me an email if you want a price on anything!
Good luck on your brake upgrade.
I carry the full line of Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation products.
The Turbo Slotted Rotors and Force 10 SportTwin 2-piston calipers will run you $645.
Check out www.ssbrakes.com to see the other options they offer. Send me an email if you want a price on anything!
Good luck on your brake upgrade.
Kevin Turch
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
yeah ss brakes are local to me, they make good stuff there
Still researching...
I am looking for the easiest upgrade.
Aerospace will push your wheels out 1/2".
1LE or 12" style require spindle and a-arm upgrades.
SSBC has direct bolt on rotors and calipers, no other mods needed.
My question is, what is the difference, if any between the 1LE or 12" upgrade and the SSBC upgrade?
Besides the rotor size, the only thing I can see is the calipers. SSBC uses two piston. But I think the 1LE kit from Robert Adams uses two piston also.
Here are some links:
SSBC calipers
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail/2818/
SSBC rotors:
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail/928/
Robert Adams:
http://gparts.freeyellow.com/12brakekit.html
Aerospace:
http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/page7a.htm
Comments please...
I am looking for the easiest upgrade.
Aerospace will push your wheels out 1/2".
1LE or 12" style require spindle and a-arm upgrades.
SSBC has direct bolt on rotors and calipers, no other mods needed.
My question is, what is the difference, if any between the 1LE or 12" upgrade and the SSBC upgrade?
Besides the rotor size, the only thing I can see is the calipers. SSBC uses two piston. But I think the 1LE kit from Robert Adams uses two piston also.
Here are some links:
SSBC calipers
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail/2818/
SSBC rotors:
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/detail/928/
Robert Adams:
http://gparts.freeyellow.com/12brakekit.html
Aerospace:
http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/page7a.htm
Comments please...
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Easiest to install most likely is the Baer kit. Follow the instructions and bolt it on.
If paying a mechanic for the install probably the smart thing to do.
Saves time. Spindles are ready to go whether you use G body or the Belltech.
If you are your own mechanic and have more time I say go assemble the parts and then install it yourself. Many ways to do it.
If paying a mechanic for the install probably the smart thing to do.
Saves time. Spindles are ready to go whether you use G body or the Belltech.
If you are your own mechanic and have more time I say go assemble the parts and then install it yourself. Many ways to do it.
Anyone ever hear of "SP Performance"?
Their rotors are 1/2 as much as the SSBC:
http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/rotors4.asp?make=BUICK&model=REGAL&year=1987&
Their rotors are 1/2 as much as the SSBC:
http://www.nationalfleetparts.com/rotors4.asp?make=BUICK&model=REGAL&year=1987&
A
AsphaltAnihil8r
Guest
good info
ttt
ttt
