Adding the rear seat braces made a huge difference in the rigidity of the car. I could not believe that just adding them could reduce squeaks and flex as much as they did. My car was a high mileage t-top car but really, anything you can do to stop flex in any car is going to be a plus.
best performance mod's for the $$$
- Thread starter sonseeker
- Start date
V8Assassin
100mi away ready 2 strike
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2007
Most of the upgrades sonseeker has been advised to get are relatively easy to put your hands on. Have patience though, you will run into things on back order. Let's run through a few of the upgrades
Downpipe - Gbody $400.00, (a real Terry Houston can be found but expect to pay big bucks)
Test Pipe - bought mine used w/ electric cutout $185.00 (don't have to spend this, the test pipe should be around $85.00)
Walbro 340w/hotwire - Gbody $165.00
Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator - I gave $100.00 for mine, bought it used on this board.
TT chip - Turbo Tweak (Eric is the Man)- $150.00 for both street and strip chips
Scanmaster -GBody or Full Throttle - $249.00 best investment for the money!
Sticky Tires -Many Vendors got mine from Jegs- $300 shipped (depends on exactly what type of tire I have MT ET streets)
Air Filter/ Cold Air Kit - bought mine used for $100.00 it is ATR MAF 3" pipe w/KN filter.
Almost all of the Buick Vendors have been a pleasure to deal with. I have only had my GN for about a year now and have yet to have any problems with the ones I have dealt with. Keep in mind it is a twenty + year old vehicle and some parts have been discontinued. Thank goodness for this site and its members who keep the Turbo Buick world rolling strong!!
jhanson1750
just a 10th quicker
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
SPRING CLEANING- if you get the parts at your local (insert parts store here) you will spend @ $100-120
340 pump-$100 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Items Page
Hot wire kit- $35 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Items Page
scanmaster- $250 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
Rjc power plate- $60 here RJC A.D. Power Plate
Boost gauge- You can get a 20lb at the local parts store or go ahead and get a 30lb and be done with it here Auto Meter 3303 - Auto Meter Sport-Comp Analog Gauges - summitracing.com
Check the wastegate rod and see if it is adjustable if so FREE if not look in the parst for sale section or post on the parts wanted section.
Then when you have found out that you can ONLY get to 16lbs without getting into detonation on the stock set up go here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
The downpipe is $400 (get the dump pipe) here GBodyParts.com Online
You should look a getting some injectors and a Turbo Tweek chip. The stock injectors are NOT going to keep up past stock. I would recomend 60lb ers so you only buy once. But if you want I have a set of 30lb with a TT chip for an alky tune on a near stock setup that I have taken off . If so let me know.
This list is biased to Full Throttle because Mike has been the BEST guy to deal with. I have NOT used all the vendors on this site but everyone, WITHOUT exeption, that I have delt with on this board has treated me right and been overly helpful with their time and information helping me from making a mistake in choosing the right parts. I try to support those who support us on the board. Good luck and be safe out there Jon Hanson
340 pump-$100 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Items Page
Hot wire kit- $35 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Items Page
scanmaster- $250 here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
Rjc power plate- $60 here RJC A.D. Power Plate
Boost gauge- You can get a 20lb at the local parts store or go ahead and get a 30lb and be done with it here Auto Meter 3303 - Auto Meter Sport-Comp Analog Gauges - summitracing.com
Check the wastegate rod and see if it is adjustable if so FREE if not look in the parst for sale section or post on the parts wanted section.
Then when you have found out that you can ONLY get to 16lbs without getting into detonation on the stock set up go here FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
The downpipe is $400 (get the dump pipe) here GBodyParts.com Online
You should look a getting some injectors and a Turbo Tweek chip. The stock injectors are NOT going to keep up past stock. I would recomend 60lb ers so you only buy once. But if you want I have a set of 30lb with a TT chip for an alky tune on a near stock setup that I have taken off . If so let me know.
This list is biased to Full Throttle because Mike has been the BEST guy to deal with. I have NOT used all the vendors on this site but everyone, WITHOUT exeption, that I have delt with on this board has treated me right and been overly helpful with their time and information helping me from making a mistake in choosing the right parts. I try to support those who support us on the board. Good luck and be safe out there Jon Hanson
Thanks for all the replys. I have reading them closely.Need to find out more about the alky,really don't know what it is though,also what is a dp? Like the posts that has the $$$ amounts and where to buy them for that amount.Have a member who offered me a te44 turbo,say it needs new seal though,how much it it worth,or is this someting i don't need?Keep em coming,please.
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
DP = Down Pipe. (This is the pipe that comes off of the turbo and connects to the CAT)
DP = down pipe, the big pipe that comes off of the turbo and connects to the inlet of the catalytic converter.
jhanson1750
just a 10th quicker
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
There is a lot of info on the merits of alky injection on this board. There are several kits out there that will work BUT (now to be honest I use a diffrent brand) I would go with ALKYCONTROL. They are great at the support and helping get your car tuned. The only reason I have another kit is I had to have it that weekend and it was in town. Jon Hanson
TurboMonte 2
Car Nut
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
Quality TE44 turbo rebuild by Limit Engrg = $350 + about $25 shipping each way==$400 RT-back to you,,, vs. new one of around $700. If I were to spend $700--it would be for/towards a more recent technology--better efficiency one. :smile:
Sonseeker,
A little over a year ago, I had the exact same goal you now have. I was new to the TR's with a low mileage Limited that I wanted to keep stock and run in the 12's. With the help of several on this board and especially Quick6'n'-K.C., I made several 12.80 passes with a best of 12.78 at Bowling Green last year.
Here's a list of my modifications:
-upgraded fuel pump with hot wire
-237 fuel regulator (retains stock appearance)
-boost guage
-scan master (installed with plug-in for quick removal at shows)
-test pipe
-air bags
-MT drag radials
-Alkycontrol kit (alcohol reservoir is overflow tank, with food coloring looks like antifreeze)
-TurboTweek alky chip
-Pete Tomka's (PSM manufacturing) cold air kit (retains stock appearance under hood) see his web site Performance Systems Manufacturing, LLC
This was achieved with the original unmodified stock turbo with non-adjustable wastegate, through the original down pipe and exhaust with the original crossflow muffler still in place, untouched transmission and original fuel injectors. This is a very basic low cost recipe that retains stock appearance and dependability. Hope this helps!
A little over a year ago, I had the exact same goal you now have. I was new to the TR's with a low mileage Limited that I wanted to keep stock and run in the 12's. With the help of several on this board and especially Quick6'n'-K.C., I made several 12.80 passes with a best of 12.78 at Bowling Green last year.
Here's a list of my modifications:
-upgraded fuel pump with hot wire
-237 fuel regulator (retains stock appearance)
-boost guage
-scan master (installed with plug-in for quick removal at shows)
-test pipe
-air bags
-MT drag radials
-Alkycontrol kit (alcohol reservoir is overflow tank, with food coloring looks like antifreeze)
-TurboTweek alky chip
-Pete Tomka's (PSM manufacturing) cold air kit (retains stock appearance under hood) see his web site Performance Systems Manufacturing, LLC
This was achieved with the original unmodified stock turbo with non-adjustable wastegate, through the original down pipe and exhaust with the original crossflow muffler still in place, untouched transmission and original fuel injectors. This is a very basic low cost recipe that retains stock appearance and dependability. Hope this helps!
Don't waste your money on a downpipe until you get into the low 12's. It has been tested on back to back runs and on a low 12 second car a 3 THDP(style) of downpipe is good for less than a tenth. I personally went 11.43 thru a ported stock elbow and a stock replacement 2.5" ATR downpipe a few years back on a stock long block 132K mile car. Start with the foundation and get it running as it should with the parts you have before adding new parts. You can go low 12's/high 11's with a stock turbo, stock injectors, stock intercooler, and ported stock elbow. A Duttweiler neck on the stock intercooler is a good bang for the buck also.
It's a age thing, they were called dump tubes when I has a kid
As far as the DP and test pipe goes I would also look at Welcome to Torque Tech Performance Exhaust Products I got 3" form turbo all the way out the back. Every thing bolts in stock location for $765 shiped with 3" 2 chamber super flow 40's flowmasters.Love the way is sounds and feels...
84regal3.8,it's been a while since i ran a dump tube, i would have to hunt for the ticket.car was alot more responsive with the tube open vs closed.i enjoy my sound system and liked the response of a free exhaust so i purchased an atr 3inch stainless.yes a cutout=dump tube i guess the lingo has changed a bit
I have to agree with the DP & test pipe.
This was the last thing i did to my car a week ago and the difference is night and day!
It feels like the car spools faster and sounds a whole lot better!:smile:
V8Assassin
100mi away ready 2 strike
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2007
boo dump tube! Hooray Scanmaster!
I was running a th 3" dp w/dump. The dump had a quick time performance electric cutout, sounded great. The coolest thing was pulling up at a stop light and opening it, the look on the person's face next to you was great. One problem, opening and closing the dump can was causing the engine to lean out at WOT late in second and through third gear. Never registered any knock until the dump was open. Now this could have been specific to my setup, however my limited experience leads me to believe opening and closing a dump can affect your tune in a very negative way. The car was definetly faster and spooled harder with the dump open, just started creating detonation. This is why the scanmaster is an essential upgrade in the beginning, it will give you invaluable data about what your changes are actually doing.
I was running a th 3" dp w/dump. The dump had a quick time performance electric cutout, sounded great. The coolest thing was pulling up at a stop light and opening it, the look on the person's face next to you was great. One problem, opening and closing the dump can was causing the engine to lean out at WOT late in second and through third gear. Never registered any knock until the dump was open. Now this could have been specific to my setup, however my limited experience leads me to believe opening and closing a dump can affect your tune in a very negative way. The car was definetly faster and spooled harder with the dump open, just started creating detonation. This is why the scanmaster is an essential upgrade in the beginning, it will give you invaluable data about what your changes are actually doing.
No offense....really...but if you don't know what the DP is I would seriously suggest the spring cleaning and a lot of reading before you try ANY performance upgrades. I cutout on a stock DP, C16 and threading your wastegate actuator will yeild a ton of performance gain... for not a lot of money...unless you beat a bearing out. Learn, learn , learn about your car before the flogging begins. You will be much more satisfied in the end.
Just going thru the steps outlined in the spring cleaning will force you to do some searches (search feature is your friend!)
TurboMonte 2
Car Nut
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
OK--here's my take for your serious consideration--somewhat grouped in order of priority (mine--of course):
A) Scanmaster 2.1 ($250) so you can properly do,
B) "Spring House-cleaning" ($100-250, whoever really knows!?,
Then you can logically proceed with;
1) Boost, oil pressure, & fuel pressure gauges ($200),
2) Walbro 340 + Hotwire kit ($140),
3) Adj. FP reg'r ($125)
4) Adj. WG controller ($90),
5) K&N cone air filter ($40)--under-hood mount just fine,
6) TTwk chip ($100),
7) Recommend RJC Pwr Plate here ($60)
8) Exhaust "test-pipe w/ dump" ($90) or Hooker 2.5" dual exhaust ($300)--or, what the hail, just do both...
Now, try this out on-track for 12's (w/ a 60-ft no worse than 2.0 sec) & see where you stand--then, if necessary, proceed with:
9) New valve springs (stock specs = OK) if anemic >4900rpm (($100?),
10) Re-stalled (say 2600 'ish) stock type-D5 converter ($250)--keep lockup,
Proceed to track again & if still no 12's (again, w/ decent 60-ft), then-- incrementally--try each of following:
11) Sticky tires ($300),
---->[If you're not in 12's by now, you have other issues]<---
For low 12's & better, proceed with:
12) 3" downpipe ($400),
13) 60# Motron injectors ($360?),
14) Alky ($150 used non-progressive, or $450'ish?, w/ new 3 bar MAP sensor),
15) A new TTwk chip after 13 & 14 above ($100 max)
l l l
v v v
16) Be prepared to redo tranny ($2500) + a beefier TQ converter ($500),
17) + anything else you broke along-the-way!!
OK, now you have it & it's out there for all others to nit-pick the PLAN--but sometimes the most difficult thing is to first list the plan--then it can be picked apart--optimized later. Plus, I'm sure I left something out...
A) Scanmaster 2.1 ($250) so you can properly do,
B) "Spring House-cleaning" ($100-250, whoever really knows!?,
Then you can logically proceed with;
1) Boost, oil pressure, & fuel pressure gauges ($200),
2) Walbro 340 + Hotwire kit ($140),
3) Adj. FP reg'r ($125)
4) Adj. WG controller ($90),
5) K&N cone air filter ($40)--under-hood mount just fine,
6) TTwk chip ($100),
7) Recommend RJC Pwr Plate here ($60)
8) Exhaust "test-pipe w/ dump" ($90) or Hooker 2.5" dual exhaust ($300)--or, what the hail, just do both...
Now, try this out on-track for 12's (w/ a 60-ft no worse than 2.0 sec) & see where you stand--then, if necessary, proceed with:
9) New valve springs (stock specs = OK) if anemic >4900rpm (($100?),
10) Re-stalled (say 2600 'ish) stock type-D5 converter ($250)--keep lockup,
Proceed to track again & if still no 12's (again, w/ decent 60-ft), then-- incrementally--try each of following:
11) Sticky tires ($300),
---->[If you're not in 12's by now, you have other issues]<---
For low 12's & better, proceed with:
12) 3" downpipe ($400),
13) 60# Motron injectors ($360?),
14) Alky ($150 used non-progressive, or $450'ish?, w/ new 3 bar MAP sensor),
15) A new TTwk chip after 13 & 14 above ($100 max)
l l l
v v v
16) Be prepared to redo tranny ($2500) + a beefier TQ converter ($500),
17) + anything else you broke along-the-way!!
OK, now you have it & it's out there for all others to nit-pick the PLAN--but sometimes the most difficult thing is to first list the plan--then it can be picked apart--optimized later. Plus, I'm sure I left something out...
