Big Problem

[BLKCreeper]

Master Brake cylinder went NOw options: 1. pay 1300 bucks to have it fixed at an auto body shop.. 2. have it converted over to a vaccum system so it can be easier to maintain.. or 3. buy a master brake cyl. and install it myself.. Whats the best way to go??

 

[1970gsx]

Convert to vacuum and you won't have to worry about the powermaster anymore. No more buying brake switches ,accumulators, pumps......

 

[salvageV6]

A1Cardone rebuilt and 3 hours of your time.

About $220 total.

 

[BLKCreeper]

how do i get in contact with the A1car done

and where do i find a place to switch over to vaccum system

 

[UNGN]

Autozone:

A-1 BRAKE POWER BOOSTER for a 1986 BUICK REGAL

Unit Price: $143.99
Core Value*: $61.00
Part No.: 52-9702
Weight: 14.24 lbs.
Warranty: LLT
Availability:
Online: Ships within 2 business days
Store: Special Order
Note:

 

[salvageV6]

Parts for sale section here. Red Regal T on the first page has all the parts for a swapover to vacuum brakes, even the pedal.

Used parts I believe but email him directly for the details and costing.

I've bought stuff from him before and it's worked out fine.

 

[scottyb]

Originally posted by UNGN
Autozone:

A-1 BRAKE POWER BOOSTER for a 1986 BUICK REGAL

Unit Price: $143.99
Core Value*: $61.00
Part No.: 52-9702
Weight: 14.24 lbs.
Warranty: LLT
Availability:
Online: Ships within 2 business days
Store: Special Order
Note:

Ditto that.
Less than 3 hours install.
Then sell the working parts that autozone didn't get on the core.

Net expense: 3 hours and less than $100. Lifetime warranty.

 

[BLKCreeper]

autozone..

Now this from autozone,, this will replace my master brake cylinder?? what else is needed to make conversion

 

[scottyb]

The deal from Autozone is complete. You get master cylinder, pump, accumulator, and pressure switch. It's all prolly remanufactured, but it's all there.

 

[T-top87GN]

I went to a junkyard and pulled one off of a 85 Gran Prix. Vacuum tested it before I left. Cost me $50.00. Stopped by Napa on the way home and picked up a new check valve and some vacuum line for it. So that was another $8-$10.

So:
$50.00
$10.00
----------
$60.00 total

Oh and the 12-pack I bought too

One more thing, that was 3 1/2 years ago.

 

[BLKCreeper]

dont get it??

im only 18 so i dont know that much,, but why was the auto shop saying it would cost 1300?? labor expenses??

 

[GNSS]

Quote:
"dont get it??
im only 18 so i dont know that much,, but why was the auto shop saying it would cost 1300?? labor expenses??"

Advertisement,insurance,lights,heating,water,mortgage,workmans comp,shoprags,cleaners,and labor.

Jeff

 

[1970gsx]

im only 18 so i dont know that much,, but why was the auto shop saying it would cost 1300?? labor expenses??

It cost $1300 because you're 18 and don't know that much. To do the conversion you'll need the brake booster and mastercylinder and brake pedal from another G-body. Just swap them out and forget about the brakes crapping out on you again. I think I paid about $20 from a U-pull-it for the whole set-up.

 

[BLKCreeper]

thanks

thanks a million fellas, ill see what i can work out.. now its off to work to make some money. later.

 

[6=8]

I just got around to doing the conversion this weekend. I highly recommend conversion to vacuum, and you cannot beat the convenience of RedRegal-T's "Kit" with all parts needed less the vacuum hose, for about $110. I also recommend an aftermarket vacuum block with the vacuum brake tap. The procedure to perform the conversion is listed on gnttype.org... Take a look and decide for yourself if you believe it is within your expertise. If you feel it is beyond your capabilities (I doubt it) find a place that is willing to install customer-supplied parts, but will at least guarantee the labor.

I could only get a MAX lifespan of 2 years on the PowerMaster before the pump failed or started leaking, or just started to blow fuses. That included an accumulator replacement to extend this last unit's life. (I've replaced with GM built units 3 times in 6 years!) The parts needed to keep these brake units running have exceeded my budget, and their lack of reliability has exceeded my patience! Others on this board swear up and down the PowerMaster is reliable... I have found this to be untrue in my case(s)!

Hardest part was the pedal arm swap. Getting the upper pivot bolt back through the brake pedal arm bushing. My trick for this was to position a small inspection mirror on the left side so I could see the hole (Nut side), and use a 12" extension and a spring loaded u-joint & socket to get the bolt over the steering column on the other. Once I could see when the pedal arm bushing was in position, I just pushed the bolt home.

An air/pneumatic 3/8" ratchet made my life much easier, although I could have done the job without it. I remember when I was 18... I didn't have the money for the repair or the tools! Guess what? At 35, I now have enough money for fancy tools, but I STILL don't have enough money to pay outrageous repair bills!

Whatever you decide to do, just do it yourself. The experience you gain will pay off your whole life.