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bigger oil filter without cooler adapter

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REEDOG

poopy pants
Joined
May 28, 2001
Messages
129
Are there larger oil filters available if I've removed the oil cooler assembly? I'm using a PF52 but would like to go larger.
 
Originally posted by REEDOG
Are there larger oil filters available if I've removed the oil cooler assembly? I'm using a PF52 but would like to go larger.
By "cooler assembly", Do you mean the adapter that sandwiches between the filter & oil pump cover?

If so, you're going to be limited to filters with M18-1.5 thread ... of which I am 99.9% certain the PF52 is the largest.

On the other hand, if you retain the cooler adapter, but "loop" the input/output lines together (DON'T PLUG THEM!!!), then you can use the RJC Biggie adapter.

Advantage is, the Biggie lets you use filters with 13/16"-16 threads, which are available in much larger sizes than the PF52. (eg, Baldwin # B9).
 
Originally posted by REEDOG
Are there larger oil filters available if I've removed the oil cooler assembly? I'm using a PF52 but would like to go larger.

If you change the filter housing to a non-metric one from a Buick 455 or 350 V-8, or early V-6, a large filter like PF-24 will fit
 
Thanks for the input guys. I was hoping not to have to loop lines, I don't really want to create an additional path for oil to travel. An early standard housing sounds like the perfect solution. Anyone have one to sell?
 
Before installing my PTE turbo saver, I used a Purolator 30001 filter. Threads are not correct, but you can install it without damaging the threads on the housing. The filter is huge and I used them for about 50,000 miles changing it every 2,000 miles. Next you'll hear from the worry warts that are afraid to do anything unorthodox. Hell, I even have the audacity to use a high volume oil pump. :rolleyes:
 
The non-metric oil pump housing from the 350 and 455 won't work...The filter is angled too close to the crossmember to be used on the V6 motors...You need to find the housing off of the earlier V6 motors that still used the non-metric oil pump housings...Or just use this number 12337254 and buy it new, if there are still anymore available...It comes as a kit(oil pump housing and new oil pump gears)...I run this setup on my 85 GN so that I can use the PF24 size filter...

I think the only way that you can use the non-metric V8 pump cover is if you also run a relocator kit to move the filter to the framerail or something...But if you would do that, then you may as well leave the metric housing on there anyway, I suppose...
 
Look, there's plenty of guys who think it's OK to run around with 20#s of oil pressure at 2000 RPM. You know, 10 psi for every thousand RPM. I'm not interested. ;) When it comes to oil filters, believe me, BIGGER IS BETTER! :p
 
Thanks for the info Jim. Unfortunately you're a day late, I bought a used one yesterday from someone on the board that may be from a V8. At least it was cheap.

Strike, I ruined a fresh motor 2 years ago by running a PF52 with a plugged bypass. Collapsed the filter and sent paper to all the bearings. I learned my lesson and reinstalled the bypass but I'd still like to have a larger filter to reduce oil escaping unfiltered through the bypass.

Is the PF24 large enough to handle 100% of the oil at cold startup?
 
So you defeated a design feature and it cost you a motor? Proving what? That bypassed oil is better than no oil? Hey, I guess the engineers knew that.

4 TRs, all on PF52s, combined 68 years, zero failures...

:rolleyes:
 
Jason, Although its expensive (100 bucks for the housing and 13 for the replacement filters) The Canton Racing billet filter housing with replaceable elements is sweet. I've been using it for a couple of years now and love it. You need part# 25-452

http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm
 
Originally posted by REEDOG
...ruined a fresh motor 2 years ago by running a PF52 with a plugged bypass. Collapsed the filter and sent paper to all the bearings.
Was that really enough to damage an engine?? Metal shavings, I can see. But paper pieces are soft, you'd think they would eventually wear down & disentegrate, leaving the engine unharmed.
 
Tom, the paper doesn't do the damage. It's the lack of oil caused by the paper. The paper pieces collect at the bearing and cut off the supply of oil. It only took 5-10 minutes of run time before the rods started knocking. Tried to get AC Delco to pay for the machine work but they're not dumb. The adjuster took pictures on two occasions. One month later they called and said, "we don't back race cars, too many variables". It was worth a try.

Scott, thanks for the link, I'll check that out. Good to know all the options. I like the thought of being able to inspect the paticulate without having to cut open a can, along with finer filtration.. How often do you change elements?

Strike, nothing wrong with the bypass delete as long as you have plenty of flow capacity and change filters on a regular basis. I screwed up by increasing oil flow and pressure without considering that stock filter elements wern't designed for it. I'd be real careful before I thought about removing that safety feature again.
 
Originally posted by REEDOG
... paper doesn't do the damage. It's the lack of oil caused by the paper. The paper pieces collect at the bearing and cut off the supply of oil. It only took 5-10 minutes of run time before the rods started knocking. ...
And because the oil pressure sender is typically a "dead end" a short distance away from the filter, it seems an oil pressure guage might have kept on reading a perfectly fine pressure — no early warning — while critical bearings were being starved of oil.

Uggh.
 
Originally posted by REEDOG


Strike, I ruined a fresh motor 2 years ago by running a PF52 with a plugged bypass.


Guess you would have been better off cross threading a oil filter on like I did. :p
 
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