I would listen to Dave about the converter. When you put more power to the converter, it will react with more slip. Your shift points will move up in RPM and your trap rpm will increase. You may make more power, but you will push your engine out of the optimal RPM range for a stock cam'ed long block. Not saying you won't go quicker(may or may not depending on how well you set up for the change), just will be a less than an optimal setup.
Biggest turbo for stock heads?
- Thread starter rssooner
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no.look there is alot more left in your 44,you can do it with boost and or timing depending on fuel.my 49 went 10s,my friends went 11.09,and another friend went 10.7 with a 44.low 11's is very doable with the boost around 27-30psi.1.54 is a good 60ft our cars were going 1.4s,mph was in the 119-125mph range.my friends 11.0 pass was 118mph but high 1.4s on the 60ft.in reality we and a few like us did push the cars and you will be too to run low 11s high 10s on the stocker especially if the car is on the heavier side and im not talking just motor my axles had alot of wave to them when i pulled them and my buddy snapped his axle not to mention the tranny took a beating too we made alot of passes to get a complete timeslip.that alone takes it toll on the car.pull the turbo off when the car is around the 120mph range if your not happy and if you want to squeeze it further then you can go bigger.
its already been done.the truth about it is running 10s on a stock motor is a special thing and not the norm.it takes a complete slip,strong 60ft and 330,and it has to run out the back really well (1/8to1/4)like 23-25mph.stock motors typically will see 20-22mph.no it doesnt sound like much but it is.the torque that you killed the 1st half of the track with is down and your into the horsepower portion with a heavy car, bad aerodynamics, low motor horsepower, and higher air resistance.
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A TE60 is good for about 550 to 600 hp maxed out. But everything has to be right to get to 10s. Your launch boost levels will be key to a good 60 foot time. You don’t mention suspension changes or combo and if you’re running a slick or not.
You need to have a good look at your AF ratios and boost levels during a run so you can make some informed decisions on where to go from there.
That turbo is a different animal at 10 to 24 psi. 25 and above is a new ball game.
Keep giving info you will get answers.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Dub, you're only running 24 psi with the 44? Turn it up slowly and tune for it. What's you 60'. Get that down before looking at a turbo.
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Just be prepared to run some high boost with a te60 stock or ported heads, and i would change the 50#injectors either way.
my 60' is 1.54
Thanks for the reply... I'm just looking for low 11s. my suspension consist of HR upper/lower rear control arms and HR rear sway bar. Everything else is stock. I ran on slicks but I haven't run the car at the track in over 10 years....
So you're saying the TE60 performs much better at 25 and above?
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Yes it does.
Sounds like you have good parts in the rear.
Go get some new slicks. 26 inch slicks are what you need with a bone stock car.
Get some quality fuel to go to the track with. Not 116 just 93 or 98 so you don’t have to worry about it.
Open the exhaust at the track. Open the dump tube if you have it. That helps.
You should be prepared to launch the car at minimum of 14 psi and be able to stay in boost as you go down the track.
Your 60 foot time will tell you if you’re doing it right.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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rssooner, go with 28" MT drag radials.
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back in day thats we ran 28 tall tires,better rollout up top low rpms going through the traps and you could get better 60fts form the increased sidewall.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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I also ran 27" MTS with great 60'. My first 11 was a back to back run. 12.00 with 26" tire. Went back to the pits and swapped to a 28. Ran 11.7, no other changes. I didn't like the way they sat on a 7" rim so I went to the 255s which were 27" and fit the 7" rims better. Cut many 1.5s and ran a best of 11.3 on an unopened motor.
When I ran my 11.78 I had 28x9 slicks on weld draglite wheels. 28x10.5 didnt fit. I also had my exhaust opened. I have one of those stageright transbrakes too but probably launched with only about 5lbs.
I was highly advised to put 1/2 93 unleaded and 1/2 C16 for the extra insurance and turn the boost up gradually starting at 25lbs...
I was highly advised to put 1/2 93 unleaded and 1/2 C16 for the extra insurance and turn the boost up gradually starting at 25lbs...
this tire was needed when trying to leave on everything and could really take the hit,then we moved onto drag radials and still found the 10 contact patch being a better setup especially for consistancy.your 5psi launch is only allowing you to roll out as rpm and boost rises.we used to leave on the ebrake with rpm and boost already built.
the car needs to be tuned correctly for the fuel being used.c16 needs alot more timing.93 needs much lower timing.when you mix the fuels you can really slow the car down as well.ive run the leaded race fuels as well as pump gas and unleaded race fuels.the afr and timing needs are different to maximize and get that complete ticket.
What was your trap RPM on that run?
I don't remember...been quite a while ago..
