Bleeding brakes/ Proportioning valve issues

[VADER]

Decided to "upgrade" to all long shoes in the rear so I changed the shoes, & also changed out the wheel cylinders as they seemed stuck and wouldnt move.
I bled brakes by having someone press the brake pedal while I loosen the bleeder until its solid fluid, seemed easy enough.
I go to test drive the car and it has no brakes, and the brake light would go on when you press the brakes. I do plenty of searching on TB.com and I didnt hold in the proportioning valve so Im thinking thats what it was. I was going to rebleed but when someone stepped on the brakes, from under the car you hear pfft, pfft near the valve, I dont know if that is normal, and the proportioning valve goes in instead of out. I put my finger on it to double check, engine was not running, dont know if that matters ( vacuum brakes). From the rear of the car when running, I hear a leaking air sound, but that may be exhaust, or even the fuel pump.
The thing on the valve that moves in looks like a bleeder valve, it faces the front. Could this be defective? It looks like iron, not brass. The brakes in this car were never that good. Thanks.

 

[bruce]

Be sure the *pin* is just a nib showing.

Then with the car sitting level open the right rear bleed screw, it should after a while drip brake fluid, once that happens tighten the bleeder. Then do the L/R, R/F, and finally L/F.

You should now, have *some* brake pedal, if not perfect. if it's still mushy, then bleed the brakes with the pump/ hold/ release bleeder/ tighten bleeder, pump, etc. Again, starting at the R/R, you want to start at the furthest wheel, and then work you're way to the closest one to the M/C..

 

[VADER]

Thanks Bruce. I think I may have been mixed up. The valve pin does come out when brakes are depressed. I must have been off sync with my brake pedal pusher. I will hold it in with a c clamp & bleed them.

Do I still have to bleed the fronts even though they werent cracked open? What about the master cylinder if I dont let it run dry? Thanks

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by VADER
Thanks Bruce. I think I may have been mixed up. The valve pin does come out when brakes are depressed. I must have been off sync with my brake pedal pusher. I will hold it in with a c clamp & bleed them.

Do I still have to bleed the fronts even though they werent cracked open? What about the master cylinder if I dont let it run dry? Thanks

Do the procedure I outlined first.

The gravity bleed should get rid of the pin popping.

I change brake/ flush the brake fluid in my car ever 2 years, as a matter of preventive maintaince. How long since your's have been bleed?.

 

[VADER]

Ive had the car for 6 yrs & never bled them. I finally did all of them tonight. I did the pump method until I figured out the drip method which is good once it gets going, but initially slow.
Brakes work but not too well, no brake light on. Rear brakes may have to adjust. Pedal feel isnt the best, you need to get on them to stop ok. If I push pedal, it holds pressure for a split second then the pedal will sink down, not to the bottom though.
I'll check tomorrow for any leaks.